Up in Smoke - Not the movie, my alternator

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Western New York
Awsome..There are two things that would help .If you could scribe where the alt normally sits on the main bracket and take a pic of where the main bracket would mount on the engine..i was looking at an a3 at haspin and have a pretty good idea of how i will build it..Since it doesnt have to pivot i am gonna make it similar to the stock one but with a piece of metal goin along the bottom to add a angle and more than double the rigidness of the bracket.i am also gonna do a different adjusting arm that is reinforced to keep the harmonics down as well
TM - Brackets scribed, pictures below. I'll send more via e-mail.

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tm america

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I do have one more question?if you were to lay a flat edge on the surface where the main bracket bolts to the engine would it clear the two bolts that are to the top of the main bracket mounting bolts?Reason being i have been wanting to make a 12 volt kit for these as well and i think i have it all figured out .. Just need to know if it would clear those bolts?I will probably be sending you a 12 volt kit for you to test fit for me as well.. Same deal as the 24 volt kit.. You can keep it for free just take some pics of the install and let me know how it fits....
 
76
0
6
Location
Western New York
I do have one more question?if you were to lay a flat edge on the surface where the main bracket bolts to the engine would it clear the two bolts that are to the top of the main bracket mounting bolts?Reason being i have been wanting to make a 12 volt kit for these as well and i think i have it all figured out .. Just need to know if it would clear those bolts?I will probably be sending you a 12 volt kit for you to test fit for me as well.. Same deal as the 24 volt kit.. You can keep it for free just take some pics of the install and let me know how it fits....
Absolutely... I'll run out to the truck with a camera and tape measure and post pictures shortly.
 
76
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6
Location
Western New York
Here are some pictures. Apologies for the focus... I could not see the camera focus lock since the camera was buried in the engine compartment to take the shots. Also, since we had so much rain up here, the mosquito's are like piranha tonight and I was rushing.

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Oh, by the way, I just remembered why your username was so familiar. You fabricate those awesome trailer hitch mounts. I have it on my list to get.
 

tm america

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Ok perfect looks like my idea will work beautifully..Thanks alot .. once i get the first couple made i will give you a little kick back for helping out..
 

tm america

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I am also making a really slick front mount hitch for the deuce with a winch .. I'm still working on my non winch design but should have something shortly..I have been living in the garage working on my military truck parts.. i have like 5 or 6 new products ready to go into production..Just was really waiting till i had the a3 kits ready to go as well..
 
76
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6
Location
Western New York
TM - The alternator bracket you made me for the 24V - Delco 27si conversion for my A3 worked perfect. In fact, it is better than my original which was always off one belt rib on the pulley. I can't thank you enough. I still want to get some more miles on it, but so far, life is good. Here are a few pictures with it installed. I can not wait until you finish the duel 12V/24V bracket you mentioned.

27siBracket1.jpg27siBracket2.jpg27siBracket3.jpg27siBracket4.jpg27siBracket5.jpg
 
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Greenwood1

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Doniphan Mo.
12 volt alternator

I sell my 24 volt 27si kit for the a2 for 61.00 with shipping ..My kit uses the stock belts and is a dirrect bolt on for it..I am gonna make the a3 kit the same way some it is a dirrect bolt on and it will use the stock belt

I am looking for a mount kit for my m923a2 to mount a 12 volt alternator/generator. I was wondering do you still make the kit.
 

swbradley1

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PM him and see if he responds. He might see your post.

I don't know if he has made a bracket for the 6CTA yet. I have used the one for the Deuce and have one to install on my NHC-250.
 

DavidWymore

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El Centro, CA
Hello, gents.

As mentioned in the thread for my '70 (that will hopefully soon be my first fully operational deuce), the alternator completely melted down before I got the truck. I looked into rebuilding it with parts from Erik's military surplus, but so much was damaged, parts cost more than a replacement. I hemmed and hawed for a few days before deciding to just get another used stock alternator. I figure I can rebuild them myself inexpensively enough if I have another failure...as long as it doesn't toast everything again. Like the OP, I am looking for ways to prevent another total meltdown. Maybe an idiot light to warn of excessive voltage? - and if voltage does get high, stop the engine immediately, correct?

Thanks for your input
 

74M35A2

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Livonia, MI
The stock mil alternators do not have sufficient cooling or temperature rated electronics, especially at idle. The voltage regulator/rectifier overheats and can fail in an open, full field, or short condition. The alternator in the beginning of this thread could have had a short to ground, and it wound up full field to try and keep up, and kept the short live until it melted. This is one common failure mode of this unit, amongst others. They just love to commit suicide.

TM is super helpful with their correspondence and help. The only part I don't like is that they are advertising Delco alternators, but not selling them. Their unit is a Chinese Delco clone. A genuine Delco will say Delco Remy on the rear of it. There is no way a genuine Delco can be had for $115 brand new, and the displayed pics are not Delco units. But, if TM is offering lifetime warranty of this unit, then it should be at least decent, and a great value for anybody in need of a replacement. It is very easy to fool people into the Delco thing because it is a copy. I am simply requesting that they advertise it correctly in saying it is a "Delco type" alternator, which is the most common way properly advertising such, without having to say "Chinese Delco copy".

On the Cummins 8.3, I have listed the civilian alternator mount bracket p/n in a 5T thread, available from Cummins. It is a cast iron bracket that accepts any J-180 short type alternator. I also have pics of others who have successfully added a second alternator in 12v or 24v to their serpentine driven 8.3. It is easy to do. I also sell genuine starters and genuine and clone alternators, in 12v, 24v, and double the alternator amperage if need be, for LDT/S, NHC-250, and 6CTA8.3 engines. Some recently listed in the classifieds.

TM's pricing and free bracketry offer is amazing. Hats off to them. I could not sell a clone alternator at that price and have a profit. Free shipping too? I would never look at my stock alternator again for all that. That is a deal and a half.
 
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74M35A2

Well-known member
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Livonia, MI
Hello, gents.

As mentioned in the thread for my '70 (that will hopefully soon be my first fully operational deuce), the alternator completely melted down before I got the truck. I looked into rebuilding it with parts from Erik's military surplus, but so much was damaged, parts cost more than a replacement. I hemmed and hawed for a few days before deciding to just get another used stock alternator. I figure I can rebuild them myself inexpensively enough if I have another failure...as long as it doesn't toast everything again. Like the OP, I am looking for ways to prevent another total meltdown. Maybe an idiot light to warn of excessive voltage? - and if voltage does get high, stop the engine immediately, correct?

Thanks for your input
To make it reliable, it has to be replaced with a different design. Even the Chinese Delco clones are more reliable than the stock overheating, poorly designed unit. You should not need extra warning lights/switches/bells. Wouldn't it be nice to close the hood and not have to babysit it?
 

DavidWymore

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El Centro, CA
To make it reliable, it has to be replaced with a different design. Even the Chinese Delco clones are more reliable than the stock overheating, poorly designed unit. You should not need extra warning lights/switches/bells. Wouldn't it be nice to close the hood and not have to babysit it?

Well...looks like I made the wrong decision, especially living in a hot desert. Next time, I'll make the right one. I'll see if there's not one or two relatively simple things I can do to try to keep this stock one cooler.

Somewhere here I read that a rebuilder commented on how heavy duty and well sealed the stock units are. Apparently the mechanicals are, but not the electrical/electronics.

I did some homework and talked to some people and couldn't decide whether I thought, "They don't make them like they used to.", or, "Technology is much better now." was true.

Thank you very much, I appreciate all the info!
 

74M35A2

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Exactly. When people say "They don't make them like they used to.", I say thank goodness. When was the last time your car stalled backing out of the driveway? Your vehicle can tell you what is wrong with itself to your phone? You don't need to rebuild your engine because it is blowing blue smoke out the tailpipe at 80,000 miles? Correct, and thank goodness. They don't build them like they used to.
 

74M35A2

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Livonia, MI
PM him and see if he responds. He might see your post.I don't know if he has made a bracket for the 6CTA yet. I have used the one for the Deuce and have one to install on my NHC-250.
Wrong section, but here is your thread, if he wants to simply change the style of the one he already has. If he wants to add one in addition to what he already has, that can and has also be done by several easily with flat plate behind the existing alternator bracket. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...quot-Conventional-quot-Alternator-Bracket-P-N
 

daytonatrbo

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Tricities, TN
Well...looks like I made the wrong decision, especially living in a hot desert. Next time, I'll make the right one. I'll see if there's not one or two relatively simple things I can do to try to keep this stock one cooler.

Somewhere here I read that a rebuilder commented on how heavy duty and well sealed the stock units are. Apparently the mechanicals are, but not the electrical/electronics.



I did some homework and talked to some people and couldn't decide whether I thought, "They don't make them like they used to.", or, "Technology is much better now." was true.

Thank you very much, I appreciate all the info!

Wrap copper tubing around it and water cool it.


The inside of my alternator looked a lot like the one in the original post on this thread. Only wire #5 had come loose from the regulator and arced on EVERYTHING.
 
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