Used motor oil

[n1vbn]

TIf all road fuel must be taxed what's the deal with bio or wvo or waste oil.

I believe you can legally make like 500 gallons a year without anyone caring. Of course, how would anyone know ?

The Feds allow you to use up to 1600 gallons of Bio-Diesel before they get interested.

Found a couple of truckers that converted the right tank to use VVO. Even paying the road tax it still is cheaper than pump Diesel. I was quoted $1.50 per gallon delivered to my house for Virgin Canola oil.

My neighbor last week refilled his 1000 gallon above ground fuel tank + the house tank and took 1486 gallons at $2.15 bulk delivery price for breaking the 1000 mark. For those who have room and cash ya might consider a bulk tank.

 

[Stan]

Where can you find the filter bags that were suggested for filtering used motor oil?

 

[ken]

Stan. I use coffie filters stuffed into the screen tube of the duece fuel tank. I just put the tube in a 5 gallon bucket and pour the oil through the tube into another bucket.

 

[rdixiemiller]

McMaster Carr (www.mcmastercarr.com) has small mesh bag filters. I use trade size 9, which are small enough to fit into the bung of a 55 gallon drum. I pump my used oil from one drum into another to the tune of about 10-12 gallons, then go fill the drum up with diesel. I keep my fuel ready-mixed at my shop.

 

[houdel]

Coffee filters are OK, but I don't know how fine they filter. I bought some bag filters from McMaster-Carr, http://www.mcmaster.com/. If you go to their home page, look under "Pumping and Filtering", then click on "Filter Cartridges and Bags". If you read through that section, there is a lot of very useful information. I bought a couple of 4-3/32"x14" "Two-in-One High-Capacity Felt Filter Bags" for $7.32 each. These are double layer bags in various ratings, I bought the 5/1 micron bags which are a 5 micron heavy inner bag with a one micron outside bag. These are NOMINAL numbers, so effectively they filter to 5 microns absolute.

The problem is figuring out how to use them. McMaster-Carr's bag housings are industrial rated and are VERY expensive! I guess I can just hang one over a 5 gallon bucket and pour the oil through it, but that might get messy. I'm mulling over making up my own bag housings out of 6" PVC pipe and fittings, should be pretty inexpensive to build, and then I can upgrade to the 5-1/2"x32" bags ($11.38 ea) which should last a lot longer and would be much more economical to use.

 

[rgregj]

Hey Guys, I 've been giving this WEO quite abit of thought. Alot of the repair shops around here would love to give it away. They are paying as much as $1.00/gal to have it hauled off. My question is would a oil transfer pump fitted with marine style fuel filter/water seperator work to filter a container of raw WEO to a clean container,or would it need a tighter filter (micron filtration). And would that be all I needed to do to run it (aside from mixing it with diesel)
Greg

 

[houdel]

IMHO, I would personally use the transfer pump to pump the oil into a "dirty oil" transfer drum, then when you get it home filter it through a high efficiency bag filter. I wouldn't want all the crude and gunk from some else's oil pan running through my fuel injection system!

 

[devilman96]

Maybe a little cleaner idea, I've mentioned this before some time ago...

Napa filter base PN 4759 which is a hydraulic bypass filter base for high flow applications (100psi, 40 gpm).. The thread connections are 1.5" X 16

Napa Hydraulic filter PN 1847 Which is 11.25H X 5.0OD (huge) and has a glass element rated at 5 micron (most fuel filters are 10)...

Napa Hydraulic filter PN 1861 Which is 9.1H X 5.0OD (again huge) and has a paper element of 25 microns (optional pre filter)

If you BLOCK the bypass in the filter housing you can use one or both of these filters in a row to pump and filter WVO, WEO, or what ever waste product we dream up using to fuel our little pigs for free / low cost... Just guessing but I would say that these filters would handle several hundred gallons of carefully selected oil before needed replacement... and you can pump, filter, mix and store all in one simple operation which doesn't require buckets, bags, coffee filters, canisters, rags, drips, sloshing, wearing, drinking, and or bathing in what ever product your using.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Does anyone have an opinion as to as what weather (ambient) temperature one should stop using a 25% WEO to NR 2 Diesel blend?

I personally like the WEO concept because it adds lubricity. I want to build a "conservative" propane injection system (injecting say 5% of the appoximate btu consumption). By injecting pre-turbo, and once again, staying conservative, I believe a 5% propane fumigation will reduce smoke and increase overall efficiency including power and most importantly (to me), fuel economy. The bad thing about propane is that it dries a diesel out --- WEO should offset the drying problem.

My main concern is how late in the year I will be able to run WEO as the Minnesota winter sets in.

 

[houdel]

An interesting question. On the one hand, the WEO is going to get more visious as the temperature drops. On the other hand, it does not contain paraffin/wax, so it should also lower the cloud point of the mixture. Then it becomes a question of when the WEO/DF mixture becomes too visious for the hydraulic head to handle. Time for Gerhard to come up with another mixed fuel chart!

 

[ken]

Santa, I wouldn't run propane pre turbo. Propane works well for freon. The tips of the compressor wheel are intended to run hot. When they are cooled in a propane mist they have a tendency to crack and come off, locking up the compressor wheel. Compressor wheel explosions arn't pretty. I'll try to get you some pics from work so you can see what propane does to turbos.
Now post turbo, do what ever you feel your engine can handle.
Houdel, I thought motor oil was full of paraffarins?

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Hello Ken,

Thanks for the insight. It would have been nice to have been able to use the turbo as a mixer but if the system causes the engine to eat the turbo all is lost.

The way I currently see the system working is to have an electric two-speed axle shifter switch on the tranny sifter to activate a sonenoid valve that turns the gas on and off. To keep gas from being injected while the engine isn't running there will also be an oil pressure activated on/off switch. A third on/off switch wil be on the throttle linkage so the gas shuts off when the engine is idling

An adjustable regulator will control injection pressure. Determining the right pressure with the right sized orfice will be a trial and error process. Since I'm staying conservative (going for efficiency & ecoomy instead of rot-rod performance) I feel once the injection rates are established I can leave them at a constant setting and simply turn the gas on and off with the two-speed button.

No doubt a more sophisticated system could be built but I'm looking for simplicity. I curious as to what the system willl do for fuel mileage when used with a 25 to 50% blend of used engine oil.

 

[houdel]

Houdel, I thought motor oil was full of paraffarins?

True, I misspoke. What I should have said was that as the motor oil is more highly refined the paraffin doesn't settle out like it does in diesel, thus it could have the effect of lowering the cloud point of the mixture.

 

[ken]

Santa, How much of a milage increase do you expect? How much is propane a gallon up there? I would think proppane would be a great starting aid in cold weather.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Haven't checked propane prices lately but I think it's about $2.00 a gallon. There are less BTUs on a gallon of propane BUT it supposedly makes the diesel fuel burn much more efficiently. I hope to get 15% better fuel economy (maybe I'm dreaming) and more power. It remains to be seen what the beneficial effects of better heating during our minnesota winters will be. Propane doesn't respond well to a stone cole engine.

 

[houdel]

My guess would be above 60 degrees F, you could easily run 25% filtered WEO/75% diesel (maybe even a 50/50 mix, but that might strain the injection pump except in very warm weather). From 32 defrees F to 60 degrees F, I'd use 30% WEO, 20% kerosene and 50% diesel. Below freezing, I'd use 25% WEO, 25% kerosene and 50% diesel. Other responders have suggested ratios as high as 50% WEO/50% diesel, that sems pretty high to me except in VERY warm climates.

DISCLAIMER: This is my SWAG (Shrewd Wild Ass Guess), without any basis in sound fuel flow dymanics. Once I get a good supply of WEO on hand and a suitable filtration system in place, I intend to run a series for fuel flow characteristics to see how various mixtures of diesel, WEO and kerosene flow compared to straight #2 diesel at various temperatures.

Use the above suggestions at your own risk. I have tried to be fairly conservative in my suggestions. If you are stupid enough to follow my suggestions as is without scientific data to support what I have written, do not blame me or expect any compensation for messing up you fuel injection system or any other part of your truck!