Using 6TL with melted post on MEP-003a

[Crawdaddy]

I'm using the 6TLs that came from my deuce now on the MEP-003a. In a fit of forgetting to tighten the battery clamp on the battery before starting it, I've managed to partially melt the negative post on the battery.Here's what it looks like:


It's at least half still there with just a hole in the side of the post. A friend suggested I get a battery shim like this to repair the terminal and just make sure it's tight in the future. Here's a picture of the shim:


Supposedly you just hammer a shim onto the post and make sure the terminal clamp is tight and life is good. Should I even bother trying? I hate to get rid of the 6TLs since they're still good and I haven't found another battery yet that will fit the trays properly and be held with the retention mechanism.

 

[1800 Diesel]

I would go for it--considering the cost of batteries. Clean off the posts, bathe them in anti-seize grease and install the shims. It doesn't look like you'll need to hammer them on though. My guess is they'll be loose until you install & tighten the clamps.

Another option (if there's enough material left): File the top of each post until it's flat and clean. Drill & tap for 5/16" or 3/8" NC thread. Install a SS flat washer, then a standard copper lug type connector (to you battery wires), then a 1" long bolt (with a lock & flat washer on the top side) & tighten snug, but don't strip the threads. Liberal anti-seize on the SS bolt threads too... Don't drill all the way through the post. I believe you can go about an inch with no problem. You'll need a starting tap & a bottom tap to do the job...

 

[jwaller]

You could also install a battery post clamp as normal and then melt a few tire weights and pour the lead back onto the post via the open space between the clamp and what's left of the original post.

 

[1800 Diesel]

That's a great idea...I wonder if it would melt into the existing post so when it cools the post is "like new"? To do this method he probably should use a brass terminal clamp so it doesn't melt either--right??

BTW, we sometimes melt lead for fishing sinkers & it doesn't take much to melt a tire weight or old sinker dropped into the hot lead, but that's when it's still on the burner....

 

[6x6TRex]

I've repaired a battery post by using a soldering iron and building the post up with solder then filing it back into shape.

 

[Crawdaddy]

I'll try the shim first, after I replace the battery cables to make sure I have brand new ends on the cables. I'm also going to use a Napa battery disconnect (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...unt-w-o-Fused-Bypass/_/R-NW_785116_0076263386) so I won't have to remove the battery cables again for a while.

 

[1800 Diesel]

I'll try the shim first, after I replace the battery cables to make sure I have brand new ends on the cables. I'm also going to use a Napa battery disconnect (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...unt-w-o-Fused-Bypass/_/R-NW_785116_0076263386) so I won't have to remove the battery cables again for a while.

WM sells those for about $4 or $5, though the NAPA part may be better quality. I use those on both my diesel trucks--just to have an option for quick battery disconnect.

 

[Triple Jim]

I vote for the (gentle) hammer-on repair or the drill-and-tap repair because the other methods heat up the post quite a bit. It's supported by plastic and that seal needs to be maintained or you have a mess of seeping acid. If it still seals after the mishap, heating it again might be asking for trouble.