Utah HMMWV recovery, Helmet Hard top install, and build.

Steel Soldiers is supported by:

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
Hello

I never thought I'd end up posting about a HMMWV, but that changed a couple months ago. I was surprised how just how much they had come down in price from the initial offering last spring. I ended up with this 1995 M998A1.
714462_6002_162_0001.jpg
I wanted something that I could take the family out in, but the four door ones were going for thousands more. Most of them didn't have the soft top or it was very worn. While waiting for the EUC to clear I discovered the helmet hard top. I happened to contact someone about a diesel fueled M109 heater for sale locally and when I went to check it out discovered they buy and sell tons of HMMWVs. I asked about the top and they happened to have one. They were were very helpful and I got a decent deal on it. Day 59 arrived and the EUC finally came through. I loaded up the 3500 pickup with fluids, the ibis tek 44k towbar, jumper cables, an extra battery, etc. When I called to arrange pickup the location had changed from Hill AFB to an offsite storage location. That made me nervous but I took all the pictures to make sure there was no new damage to it. When we got there the person that met us looked at the description and said we shouldn't need anything to get it. Their lot had tons of trucks, mostly HMMWVs and a few 2.5 and 5 tons, it took a while to find it. They jumped out and fired it up, started perfectly on the first try (which was impressive as it had started snowing that morning) and I drove it out of the lot. We shut it down and checked all the fluids, everything looked good. I drove it about 30 miles home and it performed great. In the pictures the two rear seat backs were laid down for the cargo configuration, I was disappointed to see it looked like someone had gone through there and sure enough all the tool boxes were empty, no jack, tool kit, etc. Overall the truck was as described and I am quite happy with it. I started removing the cargo cover so I could it ready for the hard top.

20170502_185335.jpg20170503_194855.jpg20170503_194848.jpg
Removing them went good other than there was a lot of stuck fasteners, I broke off several trying to remove them. I next ordered a kit online for adding the rear seat belts. I finally found the MWO for installing it and was dreading the 20 hours of labor it says you need to install it. Luckily the truck already had been setup as a 4 door at some point as the wheelhouse reinforcements and some other pieces were already installed. I even found a lot of the hardware for the seat belts and the rear door hinges buried in the mud under the rear seats. The seat belts went in easy and I had everything to use the two rear seats.
20170520_113254.jpg

I rounded up 4 additional people to help and we placed the hard top on the HMMWV.
20170521_184714.jpg
I read the instructions from Amtech, but the people showed up early to help so I rushed it and forgot to put anti-sieze on the stainless bolts I had bought. Since it was windy that day and I couldn't finish bolting it on I just strapped it down. When I found time to bolt it on I broke or cut at least 5 bolts because they welded themselves up solid. The top mounts with 2 large aluminum angle brackets in the back, one smaller bracket behind each rear door, and two bolts through the B pillar on each side. I believe this is a very early model hard top because the tool boxes in the sides are all fiberglass and smaller than the pictures of other tops I have seen.
20170604_141010.jpg20170604_141045.jpg
Now that it's installed I'm trying to get the soft doors installed again. They seem to not fit well in the openings, like I'll need to really mess with the hinges. Here's how the top lines up with one of the rear door openings.
20170604_141033.jpg
Can anyone confirm if theirs sticks out a little compared to the truck? I followed the instructions and squoze the back of the top in with a ratchet strap until the rear door opening was pretty even at the top and bottom. I had pushed this corner in as far as I could get it too, I even lifted up the top with a pry bar and shoved it in as far as it would go. The doors seem to be out at the top of the opening. Also, the edge of the top at the door openings is just bare fiberglass. I've scraped my head on it a few times. Is there supposed to be some trim on around the openings? Here's a few more pictures of how it looks now.
20170604_141515.jpg20170604_141226.jpg20170604_141537.jpg20170604_141541.jpg
I'll add more updates as I complete them. You can see I'm doing the reverse light upgrade, I've already upgraded the two front seat belts from the old green belts to the newer black ones. They definitely are longer than the old ones. I'm also installing a flaming river heavy duty locking battery disconnect, and adding a keyed ignition switch. Future upgrades I'm gathering parts for include- upgrading the 60 amp alternator to the 200 amp, installing the fording kit, the heavy duty offset antenna bracket with Harris antenna (for HF), the red dot add on AC kit, the fan clutch quick disconnect, and many more as time and money permit. I also ordered the hood reinforcement kit with the two panels you glue and rivet under the hood. Does anyone know what prompted that kit and if it is a good idea to protect the hoods from cracking? I'm not sure if it just a problem on some models or most all M998s.
 

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
I've just thought of some more questions about the helmet tops. Mine didn't come with any gas struts to hold the back door open. Do they normally open that far? I just measured the distance between the two mounts and ordered ones for that length. Has anyone mounted jerry can brackets on the sides of the rear door? I have a couple of those rupp kits with the bracket and the jerry can mount, I am trying to decide if that much weight hanging on the fiberglass would be a good idea.

I only have soft doors, so I'm thinking about mounting a locking tool box in the bed. Possibly just behind the two rear seats, one of those under truck bed ones where the door flips down in the front. That way I think I could mount the red dot AC unit on top of it. Has anyone here mounted a lock box of some kind in their HMMWV to secure equipment? I'd love X doors or the amtech hard doors, but that will take some time to afford those. They seem to have gone up steeply in the last couple months.
 

Bravojmc

New member
513
2
0
Location
Palisade, Colorado
Hello

I never thought I'd end up posting about a HMMWV, but that changed a couple months ago. I was surprised how just how much they had come down in price from the initial offering last spring. I ended up with this 1995 M998A1.
View attachment 683564
I wanted something that I could take the family out in, but the four door ones were going for thousands more. Most of them didn't have the soft top or it was very worn. While waiting for the EUC to clear I discovered the helmet hard top. I happened to contact someone about a diesel fueled M109 heater for sale locally and when I went to check it out discovered they buy and sell tons of HMMWVs. I asked about the top and they happened to have one. They were were very helpful and I got a decent deal on it. Day 59 arrived and the EUC finally came through. I loaded up the 3500 pickup with fluids, the ibis tek 44k towbar, jumper cables, an extra battery, etc. When I called to arrange pickup the location had changed from Hill AFB to an offsite storage location. That made me nervous but I took all the pictures to make sure there was no new damage to it. When we got there the person that met us looked at the description and said we shouldn't need anything to get it. Their lot had tons of trucks, mostly HMMWVs and a few 2.5 and 5 tons, it took a while to find it. They jumped out and fired it up, started perfectly on the first try (which was impressive as it had started snowing that morning) and I drove it out of the lot. We shut it down and checked all the fluids, everything looked good. I drove it about 30 miles home and it performed great. In the pictures the two rear seat backs were laid down for the cargo configuration, I was disappointed to see it looked like someone had gone through there and sure enough all the tool boxes were empty, no jack, tool kit, etc. Overall the truck was as described and I am quite happy with it. I started removing the cargo cover so I could it ready for the hard top.

View attachment 683571View attachment 683570View attachment 683572
Removing them went good other than there was a lot of stuck fasteners, I broke off several trying to remove them. I next ordered a kit online for adding the rear seat belts. I finally found the MWO for installing it and was dreading the 20 hours of labor it says you need to install it. Luckily the truck already had been setup as a 4 door at some point as the wheelhouse reinforcements and some other pieces were already installed. I even found a lot of the hardware for the seat belts and the rear door hinges buried in the mud under the rear seats. The seat belts went in easy and I had everything to use the two rear seats.
View attachment 683573

I rounded up 4 additional people to help and we placed the hard top on the HMMWV.
View attachment 683574
I read the instructions from Amtech, but the people showed up early to help so I rushed it and forgot to put anti-sieze on the stainless bolts I had bought. Since it was windy that day and I couldn't finish bolting it on I just strapped it down. When I found time to bolt it on I broke or cut at least 5 bolts because they welded themselves up solid. The top mounts with 2 large aluminum angle brackets in the back, one smaller bracket behind each rear door, and two bolts through the B pillar on each side. I believe this is a very early model hard top because the tool boxes in the sides are all fiberglass and smaller than the pictures of other tops I have seen.
View attachment 683575View attachment 683576
Now that it's installed I'm trying to get the soft doors installed again. They seem to not fit well in the openings, like I'll need to really mess with the hinges. Here's how the top lines up with one of the rear door openings.
View attachment 683577
Can anyone confirm if theirs sticks out a little compared to the truck? I followed the instructions and squoze the back of the top in with a ratchet strap until the rear door opening was pretty even at the top and bottom. I had pushed this corner in as far as I could get it too, I even lifted up the top with a pry bar and shoved it in as far as it would go. The doors seem to be out at the top of the opening. Also, the edge of the top at the door openings is just bare fiberglass. I've scraped my head on it a few times. Is there supposed to be some trim on around the openings? Here's a few more pictures of how it looks now.
View attachment 683578View attachment 683579View attachment 683580View attachment 683581
I'll add more updates as I complete them. You can see I'm doing the reverse light upgrade, I've already upgraded the two front seat belts from the old green belts to the newer black ones. They definitely are longer than the old ones. I'm also installing a flaming river heavy duty locking battery disconnect, and adding a keyed ignition switch. Future upgrades I'm gathering parts for include- upgrading the 60 amp alternator to the 200 amp, installing the fording kit, the heavy duty offset antenna bracket with Harris antenna (for HF), the red dot add on AC kit, the fan clutch quick disconnect, and many more as time and money permit. I also ordered the hood reinforcement kit with the two panels you glue and rivet under the hood. Does anyone know what prompted that kit and if it is a good idea to protect the hoods from cracking? I'm not sure if it just a problem on some models or most all M998s.

Looks good im going to follow this thread!
 

desmodromic

Member
239
17
18
Location
New York, New York
The hood reinforcement kits were created to compensate for the added weight of the armored grilles. If you have the standard grille, the kit is likely unnecessary.

Congrats on the new acquisition.
 

Bravojmc

New member
513
2
0
Location
Palisade, Colorado
The hood reinforcement kits were created to compensate for the added weight of the armored grilles. If you have the standard grille, the kit is likely unnecessary.

Congrats on the new acquisition.
Prob true but how many hoods without armored grills have cracked areas without the reinforcements... For the price I'd run the braces...
 
Last edited:

PaddyFitz

New member
1
0
0
Location
Western Washington
Wow, this post could not have come at a better time. I work for a police department in WA and we received a HMMVW in the same configuration as you did. We also requisitioned a helmet top with the intention of making the conversion since the troop carrier doesn't fit our needs. The top we received was used. We were really anxious about the process, but having read your post, I think we can pull it off.

Our only issue is our top came without the rear hatch door, but it has the hinges in place. The hinges are on the sides of the opening, like a barn door style configuration. I've looked on the net and only see the top hinge style door. Hopefully our shop will be able to fab something up.

You can add me to the list of folks who say THANK YOU!! for posting this.
 

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
I finally remembered to take some pictures of the battery disconnect. I wanted something that was lockable, but also something heavy duty. The Pollak clones I have seen around town seem to be rated for only 150 amps, which for most things might be ok, but I wanted something that could carry more. I found a Flaming River big switch heavy duty disconnect and decided to give it a try. It's rated for 250 amps continuous and 2500 amps intermittent. I really didn't want something noticeable so it would be a giveaway that there is a disconnect, so I decided to mount it inside the compartment by the battery. It could have been mounted in through the wall of it but I didn't want to crowd the front seat more or give the kids something to stand on or kick while driving around. I like how it can use a standard padlock to secure it in the off position.
20170611_190816.jpg20170611_190828.jpg20170611_190847.jpg
I also replaced the ignition switch with a keyed one. I went with a $13 suntex FS-IS01 universal ignition switch. It looked like it was rated to handle plenty of current. It also appears to use a standard key blank so getting copies made will be easy. I had to drill out the hole slightly like any of the other switches would require. I cut the leads off an old neutral safety switch to get the Packard connectors and put heat shrink ring terminals on them so the switch would be plug and play with the dash wiring. I put one on the accessory position too just in case I want to add something later. I'm happy with that addition and best of all it was less than $20 for all the parts.
 
Last edited:

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
I finally got some time to work on the HMMWV again. I wanted to be able to tow regular trailers so I bought one of those add on receiver hitches that bolt behind the pintle hitch. Has anyone tried those? When I put it back on, the bolt on the pintle wouldn't screw on far enough for the cotter pin to go in. I thought maybe the hitch would not allow the chain hook plate to be re-installed so I tried it without it. That didn't work either because the bolts that came with it were now too long and I wouldn't have been able to get it tight before it bottomed out. I finally ended up installing it with the chain hook plate and left the washer off the back of the pintle, but even then the nut would only go on far enough for half the cotter pin to fit.
20170627_184841.jpg20170627_184901.jpg20170627_184905.jpg20170627_184912.jpg
I took a picture of the bumper and hitch. I've heard there is a reinforcement kit available to beef up the trailer towing capacity. Does an M998a1 already have that installed? Has anyone added one and are they still available anywhere?
 

Gunzy

Active member
1,749
0
38
Location
Roy, Utah
Hi, I see you're in Ogden. I'm betting you got the helmet top from Al in S.Ogden right? I live in Roy and if you have seen a HEMTT running around Ogden or in car shows that is mine. I got it from Al also. if you are on Face book you may want to join Utah Military Vehicles. We have a few HMMWV owners there. You are also welcome to join us at some of the car shows too if you like.
 

FKAM

Member
110
3
18
Location
Duchesne, Utah
I happened to contact someone about a diesel fueled M109 heater for sale locally and when I went to check it out discovered they buy and sell tons of HMMWVs.
CUCV_ut

Any chance you could tell me where in Utah you got the hard top? Not looking for a hard top just hmmwv part sources here in Utah. Shipping of large items is a PITA via my wallet.

Thanx
 

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
Hi Gunzy, Thank you for the welcome. Was your truck over at the advance auto a month or two ago? I think I've seen it around a couple times. I've heard of the UMV group from another member with a nice deuce down in Kaysville, but neither the wife or I have facebook (very proud of her for that). Being in IT for almost two decades I'm not too excited about their H1B politics and the wife found it way too easy to get in trouble (gossip).

I was actually surprised to find that top locally. I bought it a couple weeks after the truck so it had to sit around until the EUC cleared. I think I know who you mean in South Ogden, if he's the one with stuff listed on that auction site. He's got some very nice HMMWV accessories. Unfortunately they're a little over my budget. Believe it or not I saw an ad for a M109 part and that's when I found out Plan B Supply was in Ogden. I went to look at that part and they were quite friendly when I mentioned I had just gotten a HMMWV. I'm sure they knew I wasn't in the market for one of their fancy rigs, but they still spent some time showing me how the rear seats and tops etc worked. They really do make some nice vehicles, one of their big box vans would be a cool overland camping rig. I mentioned I really wanted a hard top and as luck would have it, they had this one. They really like the tops without the tool boxes in the sides because they can put nice windows in, so they hadn't found a use for this one yet. I'd say they made me a fair deal on it, not GL cheap but not full "retail". If you're looking for a part it might not hurt to call and see if they have something. Their main focus is finished trucks, but if they have some excess parts around they might sell them. They also sold me the hinges and some other parts so I could change my truck to a 4 door. If anyone is looking for a nice turn-key rig, they seemed like great folks to deal with and really put a lot of detail and effort into their trucks.
 
Last edited:

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
I was very excited to get this-
20170627_191042.jpg20170627_191058.jpg20170627_191104.jpg20170627_191109.jpg

Summer is finally here and it would help when I'm not moving. It's a signal two speed 24v fan. I went to figure out how I could mount it and noticed that the fan just flops around, it won't stay in any position you put it. There's no knob to tighten, it appears to use a spring in the base to clamp against the ball. I wonder if they surplussed a lot of these fans because they had this problem? I've seen sellers with quite a few on that auction site. Is there any way to tighten it? I guess I should have spent $5 more and gotten one that was more old school and could be tightened. I was thinking of getting a Ram ball mount to replace the base. They make a 1" model that might clamp on the fan.
 

Gunzy

Active member
1,749
0
38
Location
Roy, Utah
Yes that was my rig at Advance. I know the guys at Plan B and have bought, sold, and traded with them. They are good guys. If you spot me at a show come say Hi.
 

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
That is a sweet truck Gunzy, ironically I couldn't stop and let the kids look at that little car show because we were on the way to get the hard top. Hopefully the wife will get used to the HMMWV and I'll be able to talk her into something larger someday.

I debated what to do about that fan I got, but finally decided to see what the seller had to say. I noticed he had more so I described the problem and when he checked, he confirmed they were all loose like that. He was nice about it and made it right. If you run across any those with the NSN 4140-01-267-4270 cage 7Z016 P/N FP106 it might be wise to ask the seller if they stay adjusted.

I finally gave up finding some 5" hose clamps locally and ordered some online so I could try the intake snorkel. I bought the tube and bracket by themselves. To attach the bracket to the windshield I used two wellnuts that came with a GPS mounting kit. I'd seen those fancy Precleaners USA turbo 3 precleaner on some trucks so I ordered one and it arrived yesterday. Just a heads up, it came with two rivnuts and hardware the appear to be for mounting your bracket to the windshield. They also had the plain rubber cap to put on the air filter where the dust flapper is on the bottom. That's one less thing to round up for the deep water fording kit. They also included a bracket that goes around the intake extension and covers the welded arm that connects to the windshield bracket. I'm not sure if that's for the M998 as the instructions mention the newer trucks. If it fits I'll install it to beef up the mount.
20170627_184956.jpg20170627_191231.jpg20170627_191216.jpg20170627_191223.jpg20170627_191245.jpg20170627_191419.jpg20170627_191440.jpg20170627_191447.jpg

I'm thinking about installing a VIC-3 intercom in the truck so we can hear each other and build a circuit to connect a two way radio to it (2 meter). I've bought the master control station and a FFCS unit. There are plenty of highway cables around to connect the two. Does anyone have a lead on a power cable? I might even have to build one if I can find the part number for the connector.
 

Attachments

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
I decided to go for it and put in anything that requires me to pull the cooling stack. I'm glad I pulled the stack because it would have been a pain or impossible with out it. I pulled all the coolers then decided to take the hood off to get the radiator out, probably should have done that first to begin with. Once I had that all out of the way I tried pulling the fan and clutch assembly. One of the cap head bolts stripped out. Luckily it was out a ways so I was able to get a hack saw behind the clutch and cut it off. I took it down to the local nut and bolt supply and they had them in stock. Luckily I was putting on the 5 belt pulley so I didn't need to worry about getting the cut off bolt out.

20170705_090152.jpg

I installed the bracket for the 200 amp alternator and then the alternator. The kit was very complete and went on smooth. I was a little worried about mounting he alternator but it wasn't too bad even though it is heavy, I sat it on the bracket and then was able to wiggle it around until it lined up just right. The used alternator I bought didn't have the nut and washer for the pulley, so thank you to everyone who posted that info on here. Then came my question, if you look at the picture below the belts are very twisted from being in storage so long. Will they straighten out or are they shot?
20170706_071335.jpg20170706_071414.jpg

Since I was in there and had the right splash guard off I decided it would be a good time to mount the AC compressor bracket. I would have had to play with the top bolt anyway to secure the battery wire from the 200 amp alternator. The bracket was a pain because I had to play with the fuel lines and bend them slightly so nothing would rub and so I could get the clamps bolted into the new hole in the AC bracket.
20170706_071359.jpg20170706_071352.jpg
I'm going to run another wire along the 24v line from the alternator for the 14v output to the back battery. I've got the hose and quick connect for the fan clutch I'll put on to make changing the belts easier in the future. Is there anything I should check or advice before I put the fan and radiator back in?
20170706_071514.jpg
 

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
I've finished up all the upgrades under the hood for now. It occurred to me that the alternator setup just changes the quantity of belts required. With the 60 amp you have two power steering and two alternator belts. With the 200 amp alternator you have one power steering and 3 alternator belts. I changed out those twisted ones as when I tightened up the fan clutch and the pulley rotated they ran through the grooves crooked still. I decided to get that hood re-enforcement kit since I definitely don't want the hood to crack. I installed it while I had the hood off. The strips of tape did not seem to be sticking too well to the panels when I was peeling the cover off the tape before I installed them. Hopefully once they are clamped down tight they will stick to both surfaces. I was able to install the rivets just fine using a standard hand riveter instead of the fancy military one.
20170707_175146.jpg20170707_175200.jpg20170707_180629.jpg
I'll get some pictures of how I installed the 14v alternator wiring and I also am working on a Pulsetech power distribution box.

My truck has the older prestolite PCB box with the glow plug controller. So far it is working ok, but does that model have issues with swelling up the glow plugs if it malfunctions? I've been interested in how the EESS and PCB boxes work so I've acquired a couple of the newer EESS boxes.
20170710_212429.jpg20170710_213750.jpg20170710_215222.jpg
These are untested as of yet, but look promising. No burnt out components or parts rattling around inside the boxes, not even any corrosion inside. I have the newer temp sender for these (from what I've read any of these can use the yellow band one). The Green label KDS is the CR-2699, the yellow label KDS is a CR-2695, the Nartron yellow label is a 12469158-1. Which one of these boxes is the best? I know the newest smart start box would be best, but I'm curious if these work and if they do which one should I leave in the truck to run with?
 
Last edited:

CUCV_ut

Member
77
3
8
Location
Ogden, UT
I finally had some time to work on the HMMWV again. I really want to be able to pull our 17' camper with the HMMWV. The tow capacity listed for the M998A1 is pretty small. I would have liked to put on a receiver hitch but the air drop bumper it requires has gone way up in price lately. I found a MWO 9-2320-280-20-7. This modification provides a strengthened frame to increase towing capacity. After the vehicle is modified it will be “AUTHORIZED TO TOW TRAILERS WITH MAX GROSS WEIGHT OF 3,400 LB (1,544 KG)”. I'm hoping that means for off-road and it doubles for on road specs like most military ratings. I believe the purpose of this MWO was so the HMMWV could tow artillery. I found the braces, brackets and crossmember from a vendor down in texas. I went through the MWO and googled the NSN or part number of all the bolts and hardware then went down the nut and bolt supply and picked them up. It took a couple hours to put in but went really smooth. Here's some pictures, look at the original versus the new parts.

20170801_123706.jpg 20170801_123652.jpg 20170801_123712.jpg 20170801_123736.jpg 20170801_124125.jpg 20170801_124138.jpg 20170801_124219.jpg 20170801_170600.jpg
When I went to put the pintle hitch back on it's not quite long enough, I can barely see the top of the cotter pin hole thru the castle nut. I tried leaving off the chain bracket but it's still just a little too short. I hate to leave out the reinforcement plate where the pintle rubs because it's sloped and I think the receiver hitch plate is just flat. Has anyone else ran into this problem? Has anyone ever seen a slightly longer pintle hitch? Would I be safe to tow a 6000 lb trailer using the receiver hitch adapter? The trailer does have electric brakes. Up next on my list is adding a tekonsha prodigy trailer brake and a box with relays to power the trailer 12v lights.
 

Lawdog734

New member
232
2
0
Location
Colbert, GA
Would I be safe to tow a 6000 lb trailer using the receiver hitch adapter?
While I'll be the first one to acknowledge that the military specified tow-ratings are as low as they are so that they can account for off-highway or cross-country towing, I like to apply the 98% rule to anything over that.

98% of the time, you'll probably be just fine - it's the remaining 2% that will get you. None of us to my knowledge here are Engineers who have evaluated the tow capacity of the vehicle and signed off on any Engineering Report regarding the highway tow rating for the vehicle. Sure, the H1's capacity is higher and may be more in-line with a realistic weight for highway towing - but it's not a HMMWV. I think most of us here would say that you "should" be fine, but what the internet said isn't a good defense in the event that the 2% bites ya.
 
Last edited:

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,985
35
48
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
There are different bracket spacer collars to make the depth for the pintle. If you have a deep collar with a grease fitting, you probably need to switch it out for a shorter one similar to the front collar.

For example the air drop bumper is thinner and needs the deep collar but the stock bumperettes do not.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks