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Ventilated Multifuel engines, Turbo or Non-Turbo?

M543A2

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Good thoughts and suggestions, Houdel. I also have industrial flow control valves that are adjustable flow one way and full flow the other. It would allow a fast discharge of the accumulator and a slow refill. Thanks Marti
 

cranetruck

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Maybe there is a connection between the thrown rod and low oil pressure caused by fuel in the oil, which in turn is caused by a leaking FDC and the Army's decision to bypass the FDC...

I now have a low oil pressure problem, fuel in the oil and a knock at the rear of the engine. It's time to drop the pan.
 

Boatcarpenter

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Bearing sets

Bjorn, if you happen to start shopping for bearing sets would you mind keeping me posted? Haven't done much shopping myself, but so far have $275.00 for "most main bearing sets" and $155.00 for "most connecting rod bearing sets". People are picking up engines for a little more than that I think :(
BC

Added: Forgot, Saturn has main bearing half sets for $75.00 but I'm not sure if technically two of those make a full set. Have to research that.
 

Ferroequinologist

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RE: Bearing sets

I have an old hydraulic pump from an electric forklift- it is a decent size pump, with a 36volt motor.

Now, I know running the pump on 24v would work, and would heat it up conciderably, but if you only had to run it for 15-30 seconds first....
 

rmgill

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RE: Bearing sets

When you pull the main bearings, do you do one or two at a time to keep from having the crank and pistons drop on your head?
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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RE: Bearing sets

Ryan, you can safely drop all but two mains at one time, pull the uppers out, clean the caps and bolts, put them back up, then do the other two. The crank won't fall out, remember, it's got the front cover/seal and the rear seal carrier and flywheel housing still up, but, if you take all the bearings out at once...mains, the front and rear seals will be supporting the crank. You don't want to be doing a rear main do you? As for the rods, you can only do two at a time...the companion cylinders, ie, 1 and 6, 2 and 5...you can only get at the bolts/nuts, whatever, easily when the rod is at the bottom of the stroke.
 

derby

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RE: Bearing sets

Hey guy's mind if I jump in? I just swaped out the" antifreeze in oil multi" with an unknown engine I had.Aftre a IP change I found it ran very well.I pulled the filter cans only to find some metal shavings in the bottom of the fliter base.The engine has good oil pressure I think 30# cold @ idle, 44# cold @1800 rpm ,18# hot@ idle,30# hot @1800 rpm. Is it normal to have some shavings in there? I am thinking I need to pull the pan and have a look.I don't hear a Knock but dont want any Windows either.Also is there any differance in a regular multi block and the one with "TD" cast in it.
 
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