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Voltage regulator drivers side M1009

104
12
18
Location
Otisville/MI
My apologies for not doing the search myself, I recently had total knee replacement and the combination of pain killers and other meds I am currently taking are not helping my ability to concentrate and reason.

Prior to surgery I dropped off my 86 M1009 at my local dealer here in the Flint MI area (birthplace of the CUCV). In the past they have been very helpful when I have not been physically able to do the work myself. I have not used the M1009 all winter to keep it of the salty roads. I had been starting and running it at least once a month during that time. It recently had the Gen 1 light on all the time. I tested my batteries and decided to replace them. I could not physically handle the problem from there so I used the dealership.

I provided them with my set of TMs and the part number for the stock replacement drivers side generator. They ordered it, installed it but they say they are having a problem with the voltage regulator and had to order a new one directly from the manufacturer.

Can anyone provide me the data for a replacement voltage regulator for that alternator?

I have never been very good at flipping through the TMs online which is the reason I printed out all the TMS. Again, I have tried doing this search myself but all I have accomplished is achieving a mounting headache, the dealership has my hardcopy. I also had cataract removal surgery last month and my eyes are still not handling the computer screen very well. Do yourself a favor stay young and healthy, falling apart in your seventh decade is not fun.

This is a non paid plug for the VA Hospital system: I receive all of my medical care from them and I have always had excellent care, albeit there can be significant wait time for non emergency or urgent care needs. The urgent care system works well and is timely although you have to travel to a VA hospital to receive it. The new Veterans First Choice Program has many bugs in it and being refereed to a local doctor is OK but the interface to then have the VA provide any and all prescriptions and or supplies ordered by the out-of-system doctor does not work; I have had to get a VA doctor to write a script for meds and supplies.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,186
1,625
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Thank you for your service.

The regulator is inside the alternator. They are normally found with any Delco 27SI alternator rebuild kit. There are several vendors on this site that sell such kits. A fast google for a 27SI kit will show you other vendors as well. It reads like your dealership is trying to milk you out of some money. Or, just has no clue how to work on something that was built to be taken apart and have components replaced like the alternator.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
811
113
Location
Virginia
Teamwork, Barman! You info, me link! :beer:


I know there's a member here who sells the parts, and I'd rather give a fellow member the business, but I knew where to get the links for ASP Wholesale quickly, so....
 

Mikixan

New member
4
0
0
Location
New york
Thank you for your service.

The regulator is inside the alternator. They are normally found with any Delco 27SI alternator rebuild kit. There are several vendors on this site that sell such kits. A fast google for a 27SI kit will show you other vendors as well. It reads like your dealership is trying to milk you out of some money. Or, just has no clue how to work on something that was built to be taken apart and have components replaced like the alternator.
I have the m1009 and my alternators are testing perfect but there not charging the battery. I'm very new to owning a military truck. I pulled them both off had them tested by an expert there fine. IDK what exactly the problem is my gen light 1 is on
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,297
9,715
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have the m1009 and my alternators are testing perfect but there not charging the battery. I'm very new to owning a military truck. I pulled them both off had them tested by an expert there fine. IDK what exactly the problem is my gen light 1 is on
Do you have a ground from the alternator case to the engine block/coolant manifold stud? Anywhere on the engine.
 

Mikixan

New member
4
0
0
Location
New york
I know alternator 2 ( driver side has a ground going to the motor block. Alternator 1 ( passenger side ) does not. Both alternator are reading good on the machine reading I believe he said 14volt? But when hooked up there not charging the battery. And the guy who tested is is a alternator started specialist who has been doing this for 50 years. Lives in the village I live in and doubt he would try to milk me
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,486
113
Location
mid- michigan
Have you load tested your batteries , it's the first step with electrical issues.
This thread may have some help for you.
Gen 1 Light Staying on Alt Help Plz

Also read the CUCV Helpfull Threads sticky
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123199-CUCV-Helpful-Threads

These would be the ones the start with;
ALTERNATOR
GEN1 and GEN2 Exciter circuit troubleshooting
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...roubleshooting

CUCV Isolated Ground Theory of Operation
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...y-of-Operation

CUCV Alternator-symptoms-diagnosis-and-fix
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...gnosis-and-fix

CUCV Alternator Rebuild - illustrated
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...rnator-Rebuild

CUCV Alternator Rebuild
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...build-Question

Convert a Civvy Alternator to an Isolated Ground if you busted your case
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...und-Alternator

Alternator Rebuild Kits
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...mp-repair-kits

These next;
ELECTRICAL
Fusible Links 101
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ible-Links-101

Soldering wires
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ections-basics

CUCV Fuse Box Layout
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...use-Box-Layout

CUCV Electrical Ground Locations
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ound-Locations

CUCV Switches Diodes Relays
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...-Diodes-Relays

Battery Wiring Maintenance
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ng-Maintenance

CUCV Color Wiring Diagrams
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...(except-M1010)

CUCV M1010 Color Wiring Diagrams
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...agrams-(M1010)

Blower Motor
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ower-motor-out

Rosscommon 24v to 12v conversion
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...12v-Conversion
 
Last edited:

Tow4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,088
622
113
Location
Orlando, FL
I sell the rebuild kits and parts if you need them. The regulator is $5 and about $3 to ship it. There is a link in my signature to my alternator rebuild thread. It has pictures and will help your mechanic understand what's going on inside an isolated ground alternator.

The output voltage should be about 14.8. If your alternators are working on the test bench, the problem is in the truck wiring.
 

Mikixan

New member
4
0
0
Location
New york
Both batteries where load tested and tested ok. The one is brand new. The second one isn't. They where reading I believe 12v on that. But what I don't understand is that both alternator went and I do not have any heat for signal lights in the truck. IDK what brings that on.
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,486
113
Location
mid- michigan
Both batteries where load tested and tested ok. The one is brand new. The second one isn't. They where reading I believe 12v on that. But what I don't understand is that both alternator went and I do not have any heat for signal lights in the truck. IDK what brings that on.
The generator 1 and heat are tied together , are your fuses good ?
Read through the links I posted and get to understand the electrical system on your truck . There is no easy fix without doing some leg work . The basic rule of owning a CUCV is if it's rubber replace it , if it is electrical clean it . There are too many things it could be to just start guessing.

12Volts could be a bad battery .
[Fully charged automotive batteries should measure at 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts.]

But with the blinker and heat not working there is a problem between the alternator and the battery.
 
Last edited:

bryfor

Member
53
0
6
Location
dundee michigan
Hi neibor. I live in dundee and have two running m1009s and a parts m1009 nonrunning. It's possible I may be able to help out on occasion if you get in over your head! Two heads are better than one sometimes....and an extra pair of hands is also handy. I'm also in process of the cataract thing and only 53....sure sucks. Had my retina reattached and now waiting for the cat removal. Take care
 
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