Voltmeter has me stumped

[Okie Cowboy]

Ok my voltmeter stopped working about 2 weeks ago. I found one of the wires broke I fixed this it still didn't work. I got new resistor now it goes straight to red like it's over charging. I get no gen lights no start up problems or battery drain. I checked my fuse able links on alts all are good. Could I have done the new resistor wrong do you just wrap ends around post and bolt down?

any help ideas I'd be grateful

 

[Warthog]

The very bottom fuse is the 24v fuse for the GEN2 exciter and voltmeter circuits. There are two relays next to the starter relay that control both.

What resistor did you use for the meter?

Also the terminal on the voltmeter is hot at all times. Disconnect the batteries when removing stuff on the dash.

 

[Okie Cowboy]

I got the 300 ohm resistor from mouser. I do disconnect batteries learned that one the hard way with a ford. Would a bad relay show it to over charge I thought if it went bad it would kill it also. I know someone will say put a meter to it my skill level with electric not there. I fix electrical problems by replacing parts

 

[Okie Cowboy]

Does anyone know where I could find a replacement gauge or if an after market would work. I have this issue and one other and those parts from LMC will be here tomorrow then I'll be 100% FMC

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Have you verified the voltage at the meter's terminals? The problem might be elsewhere. I'd hate to see you buy a replacement for a perfectly good meter.

 

[Okie Cowboy]

Could someone give me some ideas on how to wire in the new resistor. I think this is my problem I have 3 studs on back of gauge ground hot and open which 2 do I connect the new resistor to or is it all 3 or just 1.
My gauge shows in the green now till both my Gen lights turn off after start up. I really need so ideas electric not my thing.

 

[cucvrus]

[h=1]ISSPRO - Voltmeter Gauge, Color-coded, 24VDC, 2-1/16in - R8661 If the OEM gauge is bad put one of these in and replace the old one. You can use the OEM plug after it is disconnected from the gauge. The light is better and up to date. Easy fits the hole and has actual numbers. Google the description and it will show you. Under $40. last time I bought one.[/h]

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Once again, have you verified the voltage at the meter's terminals? The problem might be elsewhere.

 

[Okie Cowboy]

I don't have the ability to check voltage at gauge. That's why I'm going off the no starting problems will still run all lights and what not. I just get the Gen lights at start up that's all the diagnostic I can do.
I had nothing fixed broke wire and added resistor got something I just don't think I put resistor on right so I asked for help on how to do that if I can't find that I'll just get a good 24v gauge

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

A meter will set you back less than 20 bucks at any of the box stores, Amazon, eBay, or any auto parts store. It's a must have.

 

[Okie Cowboy]

Thanks for the reply I'm an hour plus drive from town with more than tractor parts. I'll pick one up tomorrow have spend another day at the VA. I'm still trying to figure out the multimeter. I get this sorted out and rear window crank fixed my 1009 will be perfect. Im just not good with electrical but getting better.

 

[Okie Cowboy]

Hey thanks Marcus and Warthog for the final push for a multimeter. I think so far well spent $30 bucks. I came home ran through TM and some previous post watched a YouTube video hour later had checked batteries both alts and power to gauge. I have a bad resistor for sure I replaced it but not working correct. I ordered a 24v isspro as was suggested. I will replace that Monday and start with the rear window crank.
Thank again for the help