Washington M1009 (re)build thread

caldreamz

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Washington
Hi Everyone,
As I mentioned in another thread, I've been a lurker but finally purchased an M1009. It was suggested (and a really good idea too) that I should start a thread and post pictures along the way to document the transformation. Thank you to all who have gone before to clear the path and educate those who follow! Various starting images below...



FA1BCBE3-D46E-408F-AEB7-C8798120B246.jpeg1227A0EB-C5F6-43DD-B537-97D1D156EB06.jpeg141D0113-A876-4FC4-A6DB-C9664DEA3645.jpeg82E8B723-54B2-438E-A93A-497B426405E5.jpegBD8C3D45-B965-433C-A9D6-4DA8136CAECA.jpeg804121F7-5B77-4D8E-B059-27435CA3197C.jpeg
 

caldreamz

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Washington
Well, it runs. Drove it for two hours to get it back to a home base. Steering is really loose, it's loud and there is some coolant leakage. Floor pans are rusted (apparently typical). Taking it to a trusted mechanic next week to get an assessment and then decide where to go next (and how much to spend - smile)
 

caldreamz

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Washington
Ok, had a trusted mechanic look it over (formerly kept the CUCVs at Camp Pendleton running). The most immediate list is:
- Two leaking injectors
- Leaking output shaft
- Steering gear box (the loose steering)
- Lower radiator hose (the coolant leak)
- Water pump (more coolant leak)
- Fan clutch

I am going to spend the $ on a fluid damper. I know, I know, it may be extreme but I've convinced myself to go the extra mile. I'll tackle some electrical issues on my own (e.g., 24v slave is miswired, speedo is dead) along with the rusted floor pans, some minor rattles and squeaks and various rubber bits like door seals and body mounts.
 

ezgn

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Lake Elsinore Ca.
Ok, had a trusted mechanic look it over (formerly kept the CUCVs at Camp Pendleton running). The most immediate list is:
- Two leaking injectors
- Leaking output shaft
- Steering gear box (the loose steering)
- Lower radiator hose (the coolant leak)
- Water pump (more coolant leak)
- Fan clutch

I am going to spend the $ on a fluid damper. I know, I know, it may be extreme but I've convinced myself to go the extra mile. I'll tackle some electrical issues on my own (e.g., 24v slave is miswired, speedo is dead) along with the rusted floor pans, some minor rattles and squeaks and various rubber bits like door seals and body mounts.
Stick with a standard harmonic balancer, GM engineered them for a G.M. balancer. The truck will function better with the designed part. These trucks are basic work trucks designed for low rpm, torque, and speeds at 55 mph max. Use it for it's intended purpose, drive it within it's limits and it will serve you well.
 

caldreamz

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
16
27
13
Location
Washington
Haven't posted for a while and got distracted with a civvy K5 project. Thought those of you who have talked about the starter would get a kick out of this (at my expense). I drove down to San Diego with the M1009 and all was good. Stopped off for gas on the way back and was suddenly greeted with a loud grinding noise. Ok, I figured starter but there wasn't much I could do about it on the road other than get it towed. Of course, the idiot tow truck driver decided he knew best and insisted on trying to start it again. More grinding noise... As it turns out, the starter broke loose from its mounting. This was a 12v conversion done before I bought the truck and my guess is whomever did it discovered the old 24v bracket on the back didn't fit the new starter. SO, instead of tracking one down they went without. That left a fairly heavy chunk of metal hanging on just the mounting bolts. Eventually the metal fatigue became too much and it broke off. Luckily the bolts didn't shear off in the block or take a corner of the block with it (as I've read in other posts). The starter gear did manage to chew through several teeth on the flywheel so that had to be replaced as well. $1500 later and I've learned one more thing to check along with all the rubber on the truck....



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