Weird Alternator Wiring

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richingalveston

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has the truck been converted to 12volt?
that is not standard wiring. need to see how the 12volt terminal block is being fed (next to glow plug solenoid).
also need to keep that thing insulated. IF it were to short to ground you might have some pretty good fireworks.

interested to find out more, have not seen this before.
Rich
 

JoeJoe_91

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Melrose, FL
It’s still 24v, the batteries are in series. 24v wire from the 24v junction box at firewall to the positive of rear battery, wire from 12v block to negative of rear battery, wire from rear negative battery to positive of front battery, negative of front battery grounded to body. The slave receptacles were disconnected when I bought it, I used one of those wires to bypass the 24v resistor. I ran that to a 150amp circuit breaker, then to the positive of the front battery. I have a new 12v glow plug solenoid installed.
 

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richingalveston

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So basically they just extended the output from the 12volt alt (drivers side) into the cab and then back out.
Maybe they had a 12 volt gauge at one time so they could monitor the output from the 12 volt alt which was isolated from the battery.

If not needed now, I would remove it and splice the wire back together or replace that wire. That hot wire inside the cab could be a future hazard if the wire gets rubbed or the bolts get grounded.
 

JoeJoe_91

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Location
Melrose, FL
Oh, ok. They extended both wires into the cab, the 2nd pic of the 1st post showed me holding both positives spliced with black wire. The original voltmeter was gone, and they didn’t have one installed. I got a digital intellitronix voltmeter ran to the original voltmeter wiring, it shows around 25v with key on. I’m gonna reroute power to the fuse box, it stays blinking because it’s over 24v. I’ll cut his wiring today and solder it under the hood and heat shrink it. Thank you, I didn’t like that wiring one bit!!!!
 
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