weird smell figured out finally

[maritimer]

so every time for the past three days i beend riving around with this odd burning plastic smell, figured someone was burning garbage after i couldnt find any smoke or flaming wires anywhere in the truck, that is till today me and the mrs had the kids heading to town and i went to turn the heater on and nothing, so i look at the fuses and what do ya now the heater fuse is melted into the block so with some carefuly pulling and prying with ym knife tip * kershaws tips dont take to that too well* out it came and well it was yeah ,melted.
any ideas?

 

[1956_4x4]

I'd bet there was a bad connection between the fuse and the fuse block.

Smitty

 

[Michael]

It didn't have one of those norther tool import fuses in it? I read either here or on the mil-veh mailing list about those not burning out when they were overloaded. But even 10 amps through a high resistance will produce a lot of heat. You would think that if the heater was overloading the system that the fuse would have blown.

 

[stampy]

Use dielectric grease in all your fuses. This solved all of my fuse problems on my 84 Mercedes the 1009 is next.

 

[1956_4x4]

Use dielectric grease in all your fuses. This solved all of my fuse problems on my 84 Mercedes the 1009 is next.

I use it on my light bulb bases and electrical connectors too. I've never had a bulb base get stuck in the socket since I started using this stuff.

Smitty

 

[flippydidit]

Ok, so what if you have the same problem......except some guy (not naming names here..) accidentally hooked up the 12v accessory to the 24v post on the battery, sending 24 volts to the entire fuse block? I know what you're thinking, and it wasn't me! But to make a long story short (get it...short), I now have about 3 melted areas on my fuse block, and many harnesses need changed out. Any leads on harnesses or a fuse block for sale? Thanks.

 

[maritimer]

ok now i blew my heater fuse again melted, and the gen 1 light stays on when the heater switch is on even with the fuse melted, also i now have to get the engine reved up all the way to engage the gen 1. help please

 

[joeypushjr1]

well bud it just happened to me 2weeks ago i could nt find it and had no heat for 2 days and when i noticed finially the fuse i pryed the melted fuse out clean her up real good...and threw a 30 amp fuse back in its lplace an nothing to this day is wrong. i checked it out and i found nothing to cause the blow out . so im doing good with the 30 amp ....joe

 

[maritimer]

will try that i had a 20amp in there that was what melted out will try a 30 amp to-morrow in the light

 

[Michael]

Be sure to clean the fuse holder with a file or sandpaper on a screwdriver. Might be a good idea to unhook the ground first. When they get hot they tend to corrode.

 

[stampy]

Amen on cleaning the fuse holder your wife or girlfriends nail file or emery board will do a great job for glass fuses for smaller car type fuses use a small flat screwdriver and fine sandpaper 400g if you can get it. My favorite trick is to use a regular pencil eraser on switches( for power windows) it cleans off oxidation and carbon well. Oh of course disconnect the battery before you do electrical work.

 

[randyscycle]

I'd have a look at a couple things:

First, pull the heater blower motor and make sure it spins freely. With a melted fuse you likely don't have a dead short. A dead short will blow a fuse immediately and not melt the fuse holder.

Second, be sure the heater box isn't full of leaves, or junk causing the blower to work doubly hard and overload the motor.

Third, pull the resistor and be sure it isn't clogged with debris and causing it to overheat. It needs to be in the airstream of the blower to keep cool. Too much heat = too much resistance.

Fourth, check that the blower motor is grounding well. The wire that grounds to the motor must be clean and tight. If not the motor can't ground through the plastic heater box.

Last, check the heater switch. The connector on them likes to overheat and melt together, causing the contacts to get a poor connection and generate high resistance.

 

[flippydidit]

I'd have a look at a couple things:

First, pull the heater blower motor and make sure it spins freely. With a melted fuse you likely don't have a dead short. A dead short will blow a fuse immediately and not melt the fuse holder.

Second, be sure the heater box isn't full of leaves, or junk causing the blower to work doubly hard and overload the motor.

Third, pull the resistor and be sure it isn't clogged with debris and causing it to overheat. It needs to be in the airstream of the blower to keep cool. Too much heat = too much resistance.

Fourth, check that the blower motor is grounding well. The wire that grounds to the motor must be clean and tight. If not the motor can't ground through the plastic heater box.

Last, check the heater switch. The connector on them likes to overheat and melt together, causing the contacts to get a poor connection and generate high resistance.

I think I'm going to bring mine over to his house and pay him to fix it. He seems to know a whole heck of a lot more than my mechanic.

 

[dunedigger]

I had the same problem with the fuse melting. It was that way when I bought it. Replaced it three times and melted again. The same fuse is what excites the gen 1. It wasn't until I changed out my alternator which was bad that it quit melting. It was when my battery would start getting weak and the voltage dropped due to the alt not keeping up. Voltage and current are inversely proportional so low voltage will have more draw. I'm not sure if that was the sole cause but has not melted since. Changing a fuse with a higher ratting is never a good idea and can start fires. Besides, the fuse didn't blow at 20 amps.