Weird ticking near oil pan/bell housing m1008/1028

[M1028A1ShelterCarrier]

So the other day I decided to due some easy preventive maintenance and swapped the radiator. While taking of the oil cooler lines off the radiator, one of the hard lines crumbled. A hour job turned into a day project. To get the truck running until the replacement hard line arrived, I used hydraulic hose (IT MIGHT OF KINKED ALLOWING OIL PRESSURE BUILDUP). A couple of days later, I noticed a loud ticking that that goes up and down with the engine regardless of what gear I am in. The noise is coming around the oil pan/ bell housing so I think it could be the oil pump (low mileage though). I put the factory hard line back in and the noise is still there. The low oil pressure light has not came on. The engine is running normal minus the noise! Any ideas? Is there a way to check this theory?

 

[Ferroequinologist]

Were they engine oil cooling lines or transmission oil cooling lines?

I'm not too sure how these engines are set up- probibly a seperate cooler for the tranny? I'm going to guess that it is engine oil, by your statment about the oil pump.

Even if the line kinked and backed up the pressure, it shoudn't do any damage to the pump. Most pumps have little relief valves in them.

Do the old screwdriver test. Sometimes noise in the top end of an engine will sound like it is in the oil pan only because of the acustics of the engine. If you put the screwdrive tip on top of the engine (around valves, lifters, etc.) and then do it to the underside, it should give you a better idea of the location. Also, the noise will be more defined, metalic, clicking, geartrain noise all sound slightly different.

Without knowing the exact setup of your engine or the intesity/type of noise it makes, it is hard to be sure of a cause. Do you have an oil gauge or dummey light only? If you have a gauge you could tell if you oil pressure is low or running normal. If your line did kink, or restrict flow somehow, and the oil pressure relief valve on the oil pump was lifting for a few days, it could have worn out and now is cycling, which would make a clicking sound as it constently lifted and then reseated itself. Again, I don't know how loud that would be, probibly not too noticeable.

Hope something I've said will help you.

 

[mangus580]

99% of the time, a ticking noise from the bellhousing area is caused by loose torque converter bolts, loose flex plate bolts, or a broken flex plate. Drop your dust cover, and check things out.

 

[M1028A1ShelterCarrier]

Thanks guys, I did remove the inspection cover and found a small metal chip on the bottom. Not sure what it from. I checked the bolts to the torque converter and they were fine. To clarify, it was the oil cooler line that broke. I did do the screwdriver test on the inspection cover and oil pan. I didn't hear anything unusual. I also forgot to mention, that when all of this came around, my truck also had a whistling noise that sounded like a turbo to add to the confusion.

 

[dilvoy]

Could you have a low fluid level in the transmission or could you have over filled it? It sounds like the pump in the transmission might be where your mystery sounds are coming from.

 

[M1028A1ShelterCarrier]

Transmission pump, that kind of makes since. How hard is it to swap the pump. I assume the trans needs to be pulled. The fluids are all at the correct level. Based on ease, I was thinking about swapping the engine oil pump (most critical) first to see if the noise goes away. Then work my way back. Is that what you would do. Thanks for your help guys!!!

 

[mr.travo]

Another "ticking" sound...

I started this thread so I wouldn't hijack anyone else's. My Blazer has a ticking sound BUT ONLY after a few mins of warming up. I can drive it on the highways (60 - 70 MPH) and only SOMETIMES will it continue to tick when I slow down and the engine drops back down to idle. Engine and transmission are full and to the proper level.

With that being said would this sound like an injector or something else? I am thinking injector because the sound is not always at the same intervals. I run a little bit of Power Service in my fuel to try to offset the lack of sulfur that the liberals take out.

I HATE starting new threads, I just need my question answered.

 

[DokWatson]

Could be an exhaust leak

 

[mr.travo]

Another thing I forgot to add....

I also get a lot of low RPM "gas pedal" vibration. I don't know if this is a part of the same problem. It's not at idle in park, (R) or (D). It's when I bump it up (especially in gear) about 100 - 150 RPM's. Does that have to do with the torque converter, tranny / engine motor mounts, or the same problem?

Thanks!!!!

 

[mr.travo]

Not an exhaust leak. I am 99.9% sure of that.

 

[mr.travo]

Anyone??? Kind of have the same problem here....

 

[DokWatson]

Ahhh, sounds like loose torque converter bolts.

 

[doghead]

I started this thread so I wouldn't hijack anyone else's

But I see you posted on the other" Ticking" thread(and did not mention or link this thread).

Please do not Cross Post. I would have simply posted on the other thread.


Low RPM vibe may be a loose air filter housing vibrating against your throttle cable. Try taking the throttle cable out of the "hook" on the air cleaner(so it does not touch it)

 

[mr.travo]

Ok, so how do I put this thread in here or vise versa?

 

[doghead]

Merged

 

[mr.travo]

Thanks Doghead! I am just a grunt...

 

[mr.travo]

I am going to be putting locktite on the torque converter bolts today. I will see if that wraps things up. If it doesn't make it go away, then I will suspect that it is the transmission pick up. It was a little low before I did the filter change and added fluid and it didn't do it for a day, then it started back up again. Another thing is it won't tick when I come off the highway. It's all pretty weird to be honest.

 

[rchalmers3]

99% of the time, a ticking noise from the bellhousing area is caused by loose torque converter bolts, loose flex plate bolts, or a broken flex plate. Drop your dust cover, and check things out.

I am reemphasizing the good advise of mangus580.

That chip you found may be an indicator. When you open the cover you will have to look VERY carefully to see any cracks because they are very fine and you will have a poor angle of inspection. Do a few complete rotations for the inspection to be sure.

I recommend a strong light, mirror and reading glasses if you are age impaired like myself.

Rick

 

[unaffiliated]

I suspect I may have a cracked flex plate myself. I developed a tapping noise in my M1008, then it graduated to a loud scraping and knocking. I could hear it echoing off the wall on the expressway, it was so loud. I took the inspection cover off the tranny and found scrape marks on the cover. Couldn't see anything wrong with torque converter bolts, so reinstalled cover and noise went away for a while. Then it came back, louder than ever, especially in reverse. I hadn't gotten around to checking it out, just figured the cover needed to be repositioned again. Well, the noise just went away. Haven't heard it for a week or two now and I drive it almost everyday. I think I will still check the flex plate closely before the Rally, just to be sure.

 

[CROM]

Thanks guys, I did remove the inspection cover and found a small metal chip on the bottom. Not sure what it from. I checked the bolts to the torque converter and they were fine. To clarify, it was the oil cooler line that broke. I did do the screwdriver test on the inspection cover and oil pan. I didn't hear anything unusual. I also forgot to mention, that when all of this came around, my truck also had a whistling noise that sounded like a turbo to add to the confusion.

I know this is an old post, but I am having these EXACT same noises. A ticking sound that seems to be comming from the torque converter area and a whistling noise on acceleration that sounds like a turbo and dissapears right before the gears shift. It doesn't look like this thread was ever resolved....any answers out there?