What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

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77 AMG

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Owingsville, KY
It ACTUALLY sounds like popcorn "rattling" in a kettle, like at a movie theater. Remember GMs' old 6.2 Diesel engines in pickups? It is a "Legacy" noise of the old style P/C headed Diesels. They used an odd head design that had a "pre-combustion" chamber in the head where the injector is. It basically started the combustion process, due to the smaller area where the fuel/air mix entered the head, and then, the flame ignited the rest of the mixture. ( I think that I got it right. My memory is getting dated.) It has been so long since I have driven anything with an old Diesel that the noises are unusual now.
 

Slate

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Ozona Texas
Took Big green out to several grass fires. My Son is getting the hang of it. Look what's at the end of the rainbow. An MV Texas Flag and a rainbow, awesome clouds and a little bit of rain. It was a good day. It's hard to take any pics when you are driving one of these old beasts you need two hands.signal-2020-06-01-192436-3.jpgIMG_20200601_193320165.jpgsignal-2020-06-01-192436-2.jpgsignal-2020-06-01-192436-4.jpg

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

msgjd

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Location
upstate ny
repaired the town's "recovery" damage on the bumper of what used to be their M813, fabbed a new sheet for it's driver floor, and gave the sticky xfer case piston a treat .. then went on to battle nesting bees in several of the rest of the 5-tons🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
 

Ajax MD

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63
Location
Mayo, MD
I managed to temporarily isolate several rattles in my cab so that I could isolate another loud, random noise that has been concerning me.
I took a drive with all the windows down and the rear cab window open.

Turns out the noise is the cargo cover randomly "whapping" in the wind when I drive. I guess no matter how tight you have that sucker, it still breathes like a lung and makes all kinds of noises as the bows shift and the canvas inhales and exhales.
 

77 AMG

Active member
384
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28
Location
Owingsville, KY
I learned that my speedo is reading correctly while in 2nd gear, off by 5 after that. The joys of having an O/D trans, AND an O/D Transfer case on 395s'. At least *now* I have a better idea of what my "road speed" is!
 

US6x4

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Wenatchee, WA
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Here are some before and after pics of using a headlight "restoration" kit on my gauge lenses. I also replaced the faded DANGER decal with a larger one. The kit was basically wet sanding with 2000, 3000, then 5000 grit sandpaper and it removed the micro scratches and overall haze. To remove the deeper scratches I would have to start with a rougher grit like maybe 600.
 

Paul.McLean.US

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New York
I am teaching myself to unstick my stuck Fuel Control Rod on my newly accquired 1967 M54A2.... with the help of the internet and this site. Is the M35 and M54 procedure pretty much the same?
0616201853b.jpg
 

Paul.McLean.US

New member
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Location
New York
SO I went back down to where the truck is and I used my new knowledge to remove the fuel control rod. It was not stuck in the hole, and it moved freely once I took off the bridge. But the inside was stuck! I soaked it in carb cleaner... barely worked. I soaked it in Gun solvent, kinda worked. But when I soaked it in Distilled White Vinigar.. lo and behold Free movement. Spins around like a kid on a merry go round now.. Got to love mother nature! Sometime next week I will go back and put it in and the truck should run like brand new again... I can almost bring it home. :)
 

m715mike

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Montgomery, Texas
I pulled the alternator off of my M936A2. It’s not charging. I’ll send it to a shop, and hopefully they can repair it. I was impressed at how easy it was to remove!

54D22A97-ECAD-4052-8E16-3CB335781CC7.jpeg

Here’s a shot with the missing alternator:
2C6B4FF2-656C-4EF3-9336-6FD847BF62D6.jpeg
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Memphis, TN
I pulled the alternator off of my M936A2. It’s not charging. I’ll send it to a shop, and hopefully they can repair it. I was impressed at how easy it was to remove!

View attachment 804411

Here’s a shot with the missing alternator:
View attachment 804410
Best to get rid of it and go to a brushless unit
@74M35A2 has the engine bracket and pulley for a direct swap to a 33si series
 

Mullaney

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Charlotte NC
Best to get rid of it and go to a brushless unit
@74M35A2 has the engine bracket and pulley for a direct swap to a 33si series

So, I have to ask... I have done ZERO PD on the problem - but today I went to crank my M936 and all I got was solenoid chatter. Turned off both switches, muttered a few choice words. Then I turned on main power, turned on the ignition switch, then attempted to engaged the starter a second time. Same only less aggressive solenoid chatter. Shut down both switches again the same way I always do.

The batteries were dead when you delivered my truck. No big deal. I pulled them out and brought them in the building. Checked water levels and slow charged both of them overnight. Next day, carried them out and installed them. Truck has cranked reliably since then (roughly 10 weeks) . At least once or twice a week it gets cranked. It always fast spins over and cranks right up. Last time I cranked it was Tuesday (4 days ago). I have gone as much as a week without any problems...

Hate to admit that I didn't actually pay much attention to the gauge while the truck was running beyond the very first day after installing the batteries. It was in the green, so I smiled. Reading here seems to indicate that they aren't very reliable - so I figured "good enough". Where it is positioned I almost have to lay down to see it... My plan had been to deal with that situation later. The pictures below seem to indicate that there REALLY IS a problem and the gauge REALLY IS GOOD.

M936 Voltage Indicator Off.jpg M936 Voltage Indicator On.jpg

It seems worthy of mentioning that every time I crank it, it runs for about 20 or 30 minutes. About half of that time is at about 1300 rpm. I have been performing shutdown in reverse of start. Ignition off, pause to let the engine stop, then Main Power off.

I also snapped a quick picture of what appears to be the stock generator or whatever it is that is supposed to cause the batteries to charge. (below)

M936 Generator 01.jpg M936 Generator 02.jpg

I have plenty of tools to test 12v systems but nothing other than a circuit tester for 24v. That was easy. New bulb and presto, 24v tester. I figure tomorrow I can disconnect the batteries and charge them individually again and reinstall. That should fix the problem based on last time... Any particular suggestions on a good tool to verify charging output?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
8,726
1,291
113
Location
Memphis, TN
So, I have to ask... I have done ZERO PD on the problem - but today I went to crank my M936 and all I got was solenoid chatter. Turned off both switches, muttered a few choice words. Then I turned on main power, turned on the ignition switch, then attempted to engaged the starter a second time. Same only less aggressive solenoid chatter. Shut down both switches again the same way I always do.

The batteries were dead when you delivered my truck. No big deal. I pulled them out and brought them in the building. Checked water levels and slow charged both of them overnight. Next day, carried them out and installed them. Truck has cranked reliably since then (roughly 10 weeks) . At least once or twice a week it gets cranked. It always fast spins over and cranks right up. Last time I cranked it was Tuesday (4 days ago). I have gone as much as a week without any problems...

Hate to admit that I didn't actually pay much attention to the gauge while the truck was running beyond the very first day after installing the batteries. It was in the green, so I smiled. Reading here seems to indicate that they aren't very reliable - so I figured "good enough". Where it is positioned I almost have to lay down to see it... My plan had been to deal with that situation later. The pictures below seem to indicate that there REALLY IS a problem and the gauge REALLY IS GOOD.

View attachment 804435 View attachment 804436

It seems worthy of mentioning that every time I crank it, it runs for about 20 or 30 minutes. About half of that time is at about 1300 rpm. I have been performing shutdown in reverse of start. Ignition off, pause to let the engine stop, then Main Power off.

I also snapped a quick picture of what appears to be the stock generator or whatever it is that is supposed to cause the batteries to charge. (below)

View attachment 804437 View attachment 804438

I have plenty of tools to test 12v systems but nothing other than a circuit tester for 24v. That was easy. New bulb and presto, 24v tester. I figure tomorrow I can disconnect the batteries and charge them individually again and reinstall. That should fix the problem based on last time... Any particular suggestions on a good tool to verify charging output?
A few of us have these mounted in the dash. Quick simple install. Remember that the dash gauge reads off the dash power so basically after all over items are being powered up and not directly at the batteries

XCSOURCE Universal Digital Display Voltmeter Waterproof Voltage Meter Blue LED for DC 12V-24V Car Motorcycle Auto Truck BI313 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HO50AJE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_wi.9Eb2HHKQS8
 

Mullaney

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
182
79
28
Location
Charlotte NC
A few of us have these mounted in the dash. Quick simple install. Remember that the dash gauge reads off the dash power so basically after all over items are being powered up and not directly at the batteries

XCSOURCE Universal Digital Display Voltmeter Waterproof Voltage Meter Blue LED for DC 12V-24V Car Motorcycle Auto Truck BI313 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HO50AJE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_wi.9Eb2HHKQS8
Yes sir... I remember seeing that meter in the pictures of the inside of your truck during the build phase. Had thought I would might ask where they came from... Looks like I needed the info sooner than later.

There are two of them on their way here now. Thanks Wes!
 
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