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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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Gray, GA
Swapped all my gauge cluster back lights to LEDs. The Swamp Donkey is now 100% LED. The link to the write-up is in AZK9'S post above.

While I had the gauge panel out I replaced the speedometer cable. The slack under the truck came loose and layed on the front driveshaft. It wore threw the outer casing so I figured this is why the speedometer is jumpy. Well, turns out it's the new speedometer that's the problem. Oh well.

20161002_163726.jpg

I upgraded the wiring from the alternator to the starter to better support the new alternator's higher capacity. I also found the original wiring to be a bit brittle during the alternator swap. I just terminated the old harness and made new runs for the Positive and Ground. A buddy gave me some new 1/0 welding cable leftovers from another project a while back so that's what I used. Way overkill but it was free. Solder ends, waterproof heat shrink and some protective wire loom to finish it off.

I don't much like that single ground strap going from the starter to the block so I'll make some new ones, to go starter to block and starter to frame, out of the same cable. I have a feeling there should've been two there and I'm just missing one. I don't like grounding through just the block. There is another strap going block to frame at the front of the motor but everything runs through the block until that point.

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wreckerman893

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Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
I'm getting the M927A2 ready for the GA Rally.

Drove it to a antique truck show yesterday (50 mile round trip) to shake the cobwebs out. Got a lot of compliments on it.

Today I straight piped it and tomorrow I'll do an air filter conversion so it can breath even better.

I'm also going to try to get it to the diesel shop and have it turned up to 350 HP.

It will be at the GA Rally baring any unforeseen circumstances.

After the rally I intend to but a 20 foot Marine Corps ISO dropside bed on it and make it a dumper.
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
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Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
I finished the air cleaner modification and took her out on a decent run.

She seems to have a lot more power on hills and when you floor the throttle at 1800 RPM you can feel a surge and hear the turbo spool up.

I went to two diesel shops today trying to find someone to turn the fuel up. Everybody is "covered up" but one guy told me to drop it off and he'd try to have it ready by next week.

I'd love to have that extra power when pulling the "Circus Wagon" to the GA Rally later this month.
 

AMGeneral

Well-known member
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Location
Connelly Springs, NC
I replaced the air governer on the M62A1,it was getting slow to build air.

I also swapped hard tops on the M51A1 dump Saturday,as well as replaced both wiper motors and the drivers door glass.
 

Josh

Active member
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Location
Portland, Oregon
14542437_1392430134103660_3663637841009132230_o.jpg My truck needed a little helping hand to get home. Was working perfect, Shut the truck off. Went to start it back up and it just wouldn't go into any gear. No F or R. Tomorrow is diagnostic day. Worst case I already sourced a good take out for 500 bucks.
 

jrntree

New member
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Location
Aurora, Oregon
Hello,
I am workin on a M929A2 with a MT 654 Allison trans, that sometimes but not all the time locks up and kills the engine when I put the truck in gear.
Anyone out there ran into this problem ??
Thank you,
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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View attachment 646977 My truck needed a little helping hand to get home. Was working perfect, Shut the truck off. Went to start it back up and it just wouldn't go into any gear. No F or R. Tomorrow is diagnostic day. Worst case I already sourced a good take out for 500 bucks.
Did you shift your transfer case to low then back to high and ensure your interlock button is functional? Sometimes the slightest bump can put it in neutral. Happened to me a few times. And 5 ton transmissions are no fun to do.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 

Josh

Active member
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Location
Portland, Oregon
Did you shift your transfer case to low then back to high and ensure your interlock button is functional? Sometimes the slightest bump can put it in neutral. Happened to me a few times. And 5 ton transmissions are no fun to do.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
Yes I shifted the lever a few times. Sadly When I went to check the fluid with the truck running, the oil level was way way fuller then it should have been. I'm assuming the pump in the trans died. Tomorrow a pressure gauge is going to get put on it and it will give me the answer.
 

therooster2001

Active member
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Colorado
simp5782 said:
Did you shift your transfer case to low then back to high and ensure your interlock button is functional? Sometimes the slightest bump can put it in neutral. Happened to me a few times. And 5 ton transmissions are no fun to do.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
That was definitely an issue when we recovered one from Fort Hood. Ours was a drained one, so we thought the worst, turns out it was the transfer case. Shifted it in gear, and away we went. I sure hope it's that.

But I want to see the magic trick...
 

simp5782

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Yes I shifted the lever a few times. Sadly When I went to check the fluid with the truck running, the oil level was way way fuller then it should have been. I'm assuming the pump in the trans died. Tomorrow a pressure gauge is going to get put on it and it will give me the answer.
Also try shifting the transmission with the selector rod on the transmission. I have had a transmission with 4 gallons too much and it ran fine. Just ragged sometimes from the torque converter seal.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 

Josh

Active member
1,678
11
38
Location
Portland, Oregon
View attachment 646977 My truck needed a little helping hand to get home. Was working perfect, Shut the truck off. Went to start it back up and it just wouldn't go into any gear. No F or R. Tomorrow is diagnostic day. Worst case I already sourced a good take out for 500 bucks.
Well went to fire the truck up today. Sure enough it goes into gear today. Makes a pretty loud sound when shifted into gear. Still thinking something is wrong internally, more diagnostics to come.
 

Amer-team

Well-known member
1,706
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Location
Centralia/WA
Was fiddling with some of the air lines on the wheels for the CTIS, doing some tightening to see if I could slow down some air leaks and managed to break off the short valve stem on one wheel. Did get it out of the body of the valve, but the piece that broke in the air hose from the CTIS valve is resisting mightly. Checked all the usual truck resources around here and no luck, so ordered a short valve. Am getting closer to disconnecting the system. Had taken it to the tire shop with four tires that lost air out of six. Got one good, one that just about goes flat overnight and two that go down gradually. Those included new O-rings in the wheels and a tire shop guy that worked on them in the Army. Have sprayed soapy water all over with no effect.

Should one apply Kroil to the CTIS fittings before tightening or loosening? The one that broke off, did so due to the hose side being just about frozen. I have it loosened now, but still need to get that broken piece out. Couldn't get it out with easy out, as it bottomed out on the flair.
 

WYomer

New member
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Wyoming
Well went to fire the truck up today. Sure enough it goes into gear today. Makes a pretty loud sound when shifted into gear. Still thinking something is wrong internally, more diagnostics to come.
You need to drop the pan and see what is in it. You can guess all you want but until you smell the fluid and drop the pan/filter its just guessing.
 

Josh

Active member
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Location
Portland, Oregon
You need to drop the pan and see what is in it. You can guess all you want but until you smell the fluid and drop the pan/filter its just guessing.
Fluid looks fine, has no burnt smell. Trying to score a building to park it in to work so I don't have to deal with the rain. Pan getting dropped this weekend either way though. I did take the aux filter off by the cooler and it had no metal or anything like that in it.
 

simp5782

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That was definitely an issue when we recovered one from Fort Hood. Ours was a drained one, so we thought the worst, turns out it was the transfer case. Shifted it in gear, and away we went. I sure hope it's that.

But I want to see the magic trick...
To replace a 5 ton transmission easily and. Not have to fight with it. I took a set of jack stands and welded a steel bar across to connect them . Bolted a 3k winch to the bar. Cut the floor even with the access panel and basically make a second panel the equal size of the other. Allows easy top bellhousing access. Unbolt it. Transmission is easier to move suspended. I did the same thing on a crew cab A3 just went thru the shifter stand. Makes it about a 4 hour job to R&R. Then just weld a hinged door frame or a piece of metal over the cutout and reinstall the floor mat

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 

Josh

Active member
1,678
11
38
Location
Portland, Oregon
To replace a 5 ton transmission easily and. Not have to fight with it. I took a set of jack stands and welded a steel bar across to connect them . Bolted a 3k winch to the bar. Cut the floor even with the access panel and basically make a second panel the equal size of the other. Allows easy top bellhousing access. Unbolt it. Transmission is easier to move suspended. I did the same thing on a crew cab A3 just went thru the shifter stand. Makes it about a 4 hour job to R&R. Then just weld a hinged door frame or a piece of metal over the cutout and reinstall the floor mat

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
If I have to replace the trans. I was planning on cutting the floor out anyhow and just welding a piece of sheet metal back in when I was done. Glad I wasn't to far from the truth.
 
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