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I used a set on the 3000 miles I drove on the MVPA RT66 convey and I think I got better MPG.
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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
- Thread starter dezert ratt
- Start date
I was ready to have the sheet metal flange cut and use a small dished air tank head as a cover, welded, to keep from having to lose my splines....but didn't follow through. I think the dished heads were available at $12 or so and the plasma cut flange a couple bucks.
sandcobra164
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I'll still have my splined caps for adverse conditions on board along with a socket wrench to swap around. My de-splines will be painted black to indicate normal use and my splined caps will be painted yellow to indicate emergency use. Might even add a ball valve for the air supply to the dash switch to eliminate the possibility of an un-informed operator trying to engage the transfer case front output "on the fly" as designed on an unmodified truck.
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Amer-team
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Got the inner axle seal changed in the Gamewardens M931 today and changed the gear lube in the Front axle. the CTIS still worked once we got it back together. Wish it did in my M923A2.
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Made some Sun Visor mounts for the M923A1, used some Hmmwv visors.
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8madjack
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Too bad they don't make selectable hubs like on regular 4x4 trucks. Might be a cool project to make some upsized versions!
8madjack
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Kinda glad you did, thats a neat idea, not "milspec" but neat. Don't know how rough the ride would be though, Might lose a kidney?
I don't drive long distances so might be valid.
Folks have in the past. A person here has the blueprints there is just not any money in it
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Mos68x
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Finally got the valve cover ready to powder coat the new color.
The turbo is with Dormant Red and clear, I wasn’t happy with the color so I cut it with 50% gloss red.
First test piece with the 50% cut and compared to the turbo. This color makes me much happier. The turbo turned very “orangey”, but cut with the red makes all the difference. Definitely pretty close to the ISX red that I was after.
Since I’m finally happy with the color I started on the valve cover. Took me a full day just trying to get the valve cover ready to coat. That old paint is a real PITA to get off! I even used my orbital with 40g to cut through what I could before taking it to the sandblaster cabinet(which it barely fit into lol). I will try to remember to get some pictures tomorrow in the daylight since the dark pics don’t show the color that well.
The turbo is with Dormant Red and clear, I wasn’t happy with the color so I cut it with 50% gloss red.
First test piece with the 50% cut and compared to the turbo. This color makes me much happier. The turbo turned very “orangey”, but cut with the red makes all the difference. Definitely pretty close to the ISX red that I was after.
Since I’m finally happy with the color I started on the valve cover. Took me a full day just trying to get the valve cover ready to coat. That old paint is a real PITA to get off! I even used my orbital with 40g to cut through what I could before taking it to the sandblaster cabinet(which it barely fit into lol). I will try to remember to get some pictures tomorrow in the daylight since the dark pics don’t show the color that well.
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To quickly hijack... do you get decent results with a powder mix? I have a heck of a time getting a consistent color out of a blended powder color.
Mos68x
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Got two corner assemblies for the ISO frame that will be mounted to the truck finished today with the help of 98G who brought his arc welder. Welded up and now ready to be welded to the I-beam. For that part though I’ll be welding them together on top of the shipping container so I know for a fact that it will fit when I’m finished. Last thing I need is to be certain it’ll fit, cause that’s what a drawing said it should be. Welded most places with one pass of 6010 and then 1-2 passes of 7018.
Mos68x
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If you’re talking about consistent between different mixes (like different days) I’m not sure, I’ll have to let you know later. If you’re talking about consistent throughout the whole batch, then that went great. Only thing that pissed me off was that some junk fell into the powder as it was cooling. That should be an easy fix though, I’ll just hit it with 2k and higher grit sand paper and then buff it all out. I did get some cracking in the base color when I looked at it in the daylight today, but I think that’s because I had to use the propane radiant heater instead of an oven, so uneven heating could’ve been the culprit there. Still looks good just need to dress it up a little bit...sometime lol.
74M35A2
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Oh geez, here comes the welding police in 3..2..1.. “You should not use flux cored post-flow wrong gas mix chrome-moly reverse polarity work hardened spool gun in your weak penetration of underwater basket weaving project!”. Watch... These welding threads always turn into a pen!s contest, especially if you post your row of dimes and start rattling stick #’s, you’re doomed. No matter what, you didn’t do it right. Everybody else can weld better from their armchair, with a beer in one hand, and the remote in the other.
While you’ve got the buzz box warmed up, lay a bead or 3 on the rocker arms so they don’t fall off again.
While you’ve got the buzz box warmed up, lay a bead or 3 on the rocker arms so they don’t fall off again.
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Mos68x
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Lol blah blah blah lol they can stick that crack up their arse. But you’re right someone will start whining about welding done by someone else when they themselves can’t weld for sh1t lolOh geez, here comes the welding police in 3..2..1.. “You should not use flux cored post-flow wrong gas mix chrome-moly reverse polarity work hardened spool gun in your weak penetration of underwater basket weaving project!”. Watch... These welding threads always turn into a pen!s contest, especially if you post your row of dimes and start rattling stick #’s, you’re doomed. No matter what, you didn’t do it right. Everybody else can weld better from their armchair, with a beer in one hand, and the remote in the other.
While you’ve got the buzz box warmed up, lay a bead or 3 on the rocker arms so they don’t fall off again.
lol yer an ass
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Welds look great, I'm still trying to achieve that kind of flow. John can sure stick metal together.
74M35A2
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It does look good. I don’t even know how to turn an arc welder on.
Jericho
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You guys got arc welders with switches. In the great wilds of Jericho I still use oxy acetylene and good quality coat hangars
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Thank you all for the kind words.
Welds are like handwriting - mos68x did some and I did some. Looking at the posted pics, it's immediately obvious to me which ones are mine. Miniscule differences in rod angle transitions and similar subtleties sum to a personal style.
A similar effect comes through for sending Morse or similar code. Subtle differences in rhythm give each sender their own voice. Back when I used to eavesdrop for a living we'd know which particular operator was sending after just a few characters.
Yesterday was a good day. We accomplished a bit on mos68x's project, and while he prepped metal for welding I entertained myself by desecration of a 5ton rim by using it for fabricating yet another firepit.
I'll venture a guess yours (98G) is on the right in photo 5 and mos68x is on the left. Porosity vs. none + enough metal. Certainly not everything needs full strength welds, but apparently this part does.
My problem is consistent overhead...actually I'm not going to claim to be an expert in doing the welding, I was involved in boiler engineering and design to know what to look for...not that I have the skill to consistently put it there. Been welding 49 years.
My problem is consistent overhead...actually I'm not going to claim to be an expert in doing the welding, I was involved in boiler engineering and design to know what to look for...not that I have the skill to consistently put it there. Been welding 49 years.
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