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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

8madjack

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Gold country Ca.
For your "hot" brake drums, the important thing is were they all about the same temp ? Touch is not a very good way to determine temps. Hot to the touch could be as low as 120 or so degrees. An inexpensive non-contact thermometer is very nice to have. Point, pull trigger, see temp. If they were hot enough to be "ticking" they were probably well over 250,which is still well within normal range. If you were on the pedal during your downhill ride then I don't see a reason for concern. If you weren't then they might be adjusted too tight. Only way to know is to measure clearance ( an annoying and tedious, although VITAL, operation ). Are your drums painted (on the outside ) ? I used to catch brake abusers and see potential problems with a single wheel by painting the drums with high heat ( BBQ ) paint. If it blistered or was gone I had a clue that the drum(s) in question had gone well over 700 degrees. That is not good and prolonged running at those temps will wreck seals and melt the grease outta the bearings. Also, obviously, not good.

A quick check is to feel all the drums after about 5 miles or so of normal driving. If you can touch them for about 5 seconds and not have to pull your hand away then things are fine. Again, they should all be about the same temp, that's the important thing. If one is hotter, something's dragging. If one is significantly COOLER check into it as soon as possible, it's not doing what it should. I have seen on here lists of "normal" hub temps but the number isn't that important. Even and relative to the use is what's important.

I learned the hard way, forgot, and relearned that BRAKES MUST WORK PROPERLY. Stay safe and Happy Motoring.
Yes I was on my pedal the whole way. I have one of those laser thermometers I will check it next time with those. They seemed relatively even to touch and nothing was smoking.

I realized that the ticking was the sound of things cooling down. Good advice simp on the leaving them disengaged for a while till things cool I have a flat spot where I can do that.

I'll have to get into the tech manual and see how to adjust everything, but I will do the checks that you recommended thanks. It feels even when I brake it doesn't pull or anything like that
 

simp5782

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Yes I was on my pedal the whole way. I have one of those laser thermometers I will check it next time with those. They seemed relatively even to touch and nothing was smoking.

I realized that the ticking was the sound of things cooling down. Good advice simp on the leaving them disengaged for a while till things cool I have a flat spot where I can do that.

I'll have to get into the tech manual and see how to adjust everything, but I will do the checks that you recommended thanks. It feels even when I brake it doesn't pull or anything like that
939s have auto adjusting brakes. You have the knob adjustment on your driveline brake. Good down hill braking for the 5 tons is whatever gear you are in and feel comfortable on decending is engine to 2000rpms and brake to 1500, let off,let the engine rpm go back to 2000 then brake to 1500 and repeat down the hill it gives the brakes a chance to cool down as well as regrab. They will grab harder and stronger when you release and reapply them rather than steady pressure.
 

someoldmoose

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Wasn't sure about adjusters on "newer" chassis. Excellent tip from Wes (as usual) about using intermittent braking. Was beaten into me by my first instructor. Gear down before you start down the grade and let the engine do as much of the braking as it can. Even without an engine brake or other retarder the driveline will significantly reduce the need for brake application. Save the brakes for stopping by using the engine to control speed.

I doubt you have a problem but stay alert to the "messages" the truck gives you.
 

8madjack

Active member
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Gold country Ca.
939s have auto adjusting brakes. You have the knob adjustment on your driveline brake. Good down hill braking for the 5 tons is whatever gear you are in and feel comfortable on decending is engine to 2000rpms and brake to 1500, let off,let the engine rpm go back to 2000 then brake to 1500 and repeat down the hill it gives the brakes a chance to cool down as well as regrab. They will grab harder and stronger when you release and reapply them rather than steady pressure.
Thanks a lot, great advice! I was actually somewhat like that part of the way, but I was still in too high of a gear I think I was in four, probably should have gone to 3. I had periods where I was just on the brakes and periods where I was doing kind of like you said I will alter my technique. Advice like that is golden as I am new to these big trucks, thanks again.
 

simp5782

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Thanks a lot, great advice! I was actually somewhat like that part of the way, but I was still in too high of a gear I think I was in four, probably should have gone to 3. I had periods where I was just on the brakes and periods where I was doing kind of like you said I will alter my technique. Advice like that is golden as I am new to these big trucks, thanks again.

You can always get rid of your shutterstat and add a horton fan clutch solenoid and thermal unit. It would allow you to activate your fan clutch with a manual switch in the cab to act as an engine brake as well for those downhill times. The horton solenoid and thermal switch costs less than a new shutterstat if you ever need to replace it.
 

simp5782

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I have had a broken transmission yoke for the past few weeks, just now getting that thing back together. Will be going to a stronger jackshaft and joint yoke before too long anyway. it is just a temporary fix for now. I had a broken bolt on the engine mount so i replaced that but i also drilled the engine mounts out and added some stronger bonding rubber mounts that the 915 series trucks came with.

I replaced studs on 2 different hubs with 1 more hub to go but the 2 broken studs are pretty seized so ill have to burn em out. Replaced about 5 studs total. Also went thru some of my old wheels that came off my truck and noticed that 2 of the 5 remaining LMTV wheels had cracks in the face plate that bolts to the wheel on the beadlock ring. and a 3rd burned up in the accident. So yeah those wheels did not have good luck.
 

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someoldmoose

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Location
Lancaster, PA
After my "off road" oops two weekends ago I decided that since it was such a beautiful Saturday that I would bleed the brakes. Did it old school, one-man ( Soldier B went away with friends ). Started with a hand vacuum pump and catch bottle and did all the fittings except the "top" of the air-pac ( what engineering genius ran that line right next to the bleeder ? ). Once I had purple juice coming out of all six wheels I switched to the pump and pee method ( it's all I had ). Got a great pedal without assist. Rock hard and not dropping about an inch below the free travel. Double checked all bleeders were tight and m/c at correct level. Rechecked all the fluids under the hood again and fired her up. Again, this beast started like it had just been run yesterday. Pedal feels good. Got out and did a half - a***d pre-trip (lights, leaks, lugs, and all 10 tires "thunked" ok. Got back in and, to me, the pedal felt lower. Still solid when stood on ( stops a good 2-3 inches off the floorboard ) but it just seemed different. Maybe I'm just super sensitive after my recent escapade but I don't wanna take that ride again, or worse, have something happen on the road.

So here's my question in the statements. Is there ANY way the air-pac could be leaking air into the hydraulic side ? I ask because I still don't know why the pedal went away while sitting still and the m/c went empty, and I didn't see any leaks on the inner duals or fronts while it sat. I know air / hydraulic brakes are often like stepping on a wet sponge. Can't really judge how well they're working unless yer rolling. IF it were not parked next to a divided highway with no real parking lot ( motor pool ) to get into for a proper action test I would have just rolled around in a parking lot for a proper action test. I admit that by this point, I was pretty tired and sore ( also fell from / with the ladder I was using to clean the driver's side windshield ) so I gave up for the day. Still sore today ( Sunday ) so didn't crack open any bleeders but the pedal is still excellent without boost. When I do check and IF I don't get any air, I guess I'll just hafta sack up and roll out for a test run. I would do it at night but PA antique tags are supposed to be off the road no more than 1/2 hour after sunset. Nobody ( PO-PO ) cares unless something happens or it's a REALLY slow day in LEO land but I don't like to take unnecessary chances, especially with 26,000 pounds of E = mC squared rolling on unknown brakes. So I'll save that for the next installment.

On the UP side of the day, I won the local Redneck Lottery. The land owner where Exit Strategy is parked bequeathed me a travel trailer ( well, what's left of what was once a very NICE travel trailer ) since the owner hasn't paid him rent in over a year. He was gonna scrap it but asked me if I knew anyone that would want it. Half jokingly I said, " yeah, ME ! Wadda ya want for it ? " ( figuring he'd at least want what is owed for the back rent ). He said, " Well then, it's yours. " All he wants is for me to pay the $20 / month rent for the space. Soooo, this will be home as soon as I can make it "liveable" again.

IMG_20180707_102711750.jpgIMG_20180707_105352430_HDR.jpg

Of course that shouldn't take much. After a year in the back of Exit Strategy the "new age meth den" look of the trailer seems like a suite at the Ritz - Carlton. So there y'all have it. Hope eveyone else's weekend was good. Catch y'all later and Happy Motoring !
 
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rbr0203

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Kenosha WI
New to the thread. Been reading posts on here for about a year now. Bought a 1989 M927A2 at a auction this last January. Not a lot of time to spend on the truck so all ive done is add a keyed ignition.
 

Trailboss

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Norwood LA
After my "off road" oops two weekends ago I decided that since it was such a beautiful Saturday that I would bleed the brakes. Did it old school, one-man ( Soldier B went away with friends ). Started with a hand vacuum pump and catch bottle and did all the fittings except the "top" of the air-pac ( what engineering genius ran that line right next to the bleeder ? ). Once I had purple juice coming out of all six wheels I switched to the pump and pee method ( it's all I had ). Got a great pedal without assist. Rock hard and not dropping about an inch below the free travel. Double checked all bleeders were tight and m/c at correct level. Rechecked all the fluids under the hood again and fired her up. Again, this beast started like it had just been run yesterday. Pedal feels good. Got out and did a half - a***d pre-trip (lights, leaks, lugs, and all 10 tires "thunked" ok. Got back in and, to me, the pedal felt lower. Still solid when stood on ( stops a good 2-3 inches off the floorboard ) but it just seemed different. Maybe I'm just super sensitive after my recent escapade but I don't wanna take that ride again, or worse, have something happen on the road. ...
Did you have any air pressure built up when you bled the brakes? If not, maybe you didn't have the air-assist part of the air-over-hydrolic braking system. After the truck was started, the air pressure helped with the braking pressure. It's been awhile since I've messed with that system, and I'm old, so I could be wrong.
 

8madjack

Active member
416
78
28
Location
Gold country Ca.
Guess I'll tell on myself... I removed the screen on the left tank and looked inside. Nothig visibly wrong with the pickup tube.... except it was not surrouded by/immersed in fuel! :oops:

Apparently i had run that tank down half way or more some time in the past and forgot. I thought it was still full especially because I get some dampness on top of the tank when I drive like I need to tighten the fitting. Make a long story short I thought I had switched over to a full tank and I switched over to a partial tank and just ran it dry! My gauges are not accurate which seems to be the norm. I'm going to have to look into fixing those sending units. I don't drive the truck a lot and the last time I filled both tanks was last summer.
 

someoldmoose

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Trailboss, Hahaha, I too am old. I did not have the truck running while I did the initial bleeding. I did start it after the pedal was hard and not sinking. Still had what I consider a great pedal with the assist ( resistance started same place where it was hard without the booster but WITH the boost I could push it another 2 inches or so which is "normal" for air boost. The problem is, when it sits ( 2 days or so ) the pedal has to be "pumped up" again ( it DOES come back without bleeding ) and the fluid in the m/c was down after sitting for a year. Maybe "charlie" is sneaking inside my perimeter and causing problems, or "gremlins". Anyway, was curious if "sitting" was a common cause for loss of pedal in these trucks. I am leaning toward the cups in the m/c have hardened but that doesn't explain the fluid loss unless I start to see where it's going. Thanks for the input and Happy Motoring.
 

rbr0203

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Kenosha WI
Welcome from another fan of the M927A2/M928A2!

(I digress).
Thanks. Even though i was in the Marines and worked on Cummins engines mostley, Im still getting familiar with the truck. Not 100% sure what the differences are on the individual models. However, i know that if i keep on this site then i will be learning plenty of info.

As for my plans with the 5 ton i plan on removing the original bed ( which until yesterday was filled with junk and trash) and creating a aluminum flat bed. Speaking of which, if i wanted to sell something here where would i post it?
 

tobyS

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IN
if i wanted to sell something here where would i post it?
Once you pay a (small) membership fee, you have access to the classified ads to post.

Welcome....we like pictures.

Why go to aluminum bed on a 5-ton? Are you trying to stay under the CDL 26k requirement?
 

rbr0203

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
86
-1
6
Location
Kenosha WI
Once you pay a (small) membership fee, you have access to the classified ads to post.

Welcome....we like pictures.

Why go to aluminum bed on a 5-ton? Are you trying to stay under the CDL 26k requirement?
Actually, according to my DMV the registered it at 25,000 lbs so im not really worried about that (the girl there didnt know what she was doing, not sure even if it is 100% legal). I wanted to do a flatbed because im planning on selling my house, building a RV for the bed that could be removed, and building a welding shop out of the XMT.
 

tobyS

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Sounds like your planning some serious camping. There are many camper build threads here to pick up ideas. Enjoy!

XMT is a welder, right? Miller?
 

rbr0203

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Kenosha WI
Sounds like your planning some serious camping. There are many camper build threads here to pick up ideas. Enjoy!

XMT is a welder, right? Miller?
Sorry think my phone auto corrected for me. I ment to say my MCT (2011 MCT Industries trailer). I also have a XMT 350 cc/cv, a Bobcat 250 propane, Miller suitcase extreme 12vs, hypertherm 65 plasma hopefully for auto cad, and etc. Yes we will be camping but the Mrs's family is mostly in San Francisco but i refuse to pay 250,000 for a mobile home lol.
 

Mos68x

Active member
825
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28
Location
Seligman,AZ
Guess I'll tell on myself... I removed the screen on the left tank and looked inside. Nothig visibly wrong with the pickup tube.... except it was not surrouded by/immersed in fuel! :oops:

Apparently i had run that tank down half way or more some time in the past and forgot. I thought it was still full especially because I get some dampness on top of the tank when I drive like I need to tighten the fitting. Make a long story short I thought I had switched over to a full tank and I switched over to a partial tank and just ran it dry! My gauges are not accurate which seems to be the norm. I'm going to have to look into fixing those sending units. I don't drive the truck a lot and the last time I filled both tanks was last summer.
Take your sending unit out and dip it in some vinegar for a few hours. Unless you have another issue, like a sinking vs a floating float or the gauge itself, that’ll fix it most of the time. Corrosion builds up on the resistive contacts inside the sender and renders it useless. While you have it soaking in the vinegar, check other simple things like the wiring to be sure no rodents chewed on it.
 
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