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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately? - Part 1

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SGTskully

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Gothenburg, ne

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chevyCUCV

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Massachusetts
Had it apart for over a week.
Took everything bolted to the block off:shock:
Installed new Cloyes timing chain, Atp harmonic balancer. Sealed that up and did A RP head studs with fel-pro gaskets (Bought engine seal kit for 60! Would use Victor Reinz if i go in again). Installed new Bosch india short injectors, and a new looking IP i had in spare parts.

Had i running a couple days ago, but it was smoking. Today it cleared up, though i am still watching for any coolant or oil consumption/mixing.
My ip is very advanced right now, sounds very loud in the cab. Will be adjusting it.
 

islandguydon

Well-known member
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Mongo saved my life last night!! Was scheduled to work until 2400 last night but was let go early at about 2115. The snow was so bad driving home I literally could not see the end of the hood! Ordinarily my drive is 20 minutes and 13 or so miles, NOT last night! I decided to take the roads MORE traveled by and went the longer way. Snow was on average about 6-8 inches deep with drifts up to about 2 feet on every road but Mongo in 4 High had no issues. I was about 5 miles from the house and I blew a wiper blade, it just flung off due to the buildup of ice. No problem I thought, I'll just switch the PS onto the DS. Well in the process of removing the PS blade the plastic retainer snapped and I was left with a wiper blade in my hand and no way to attach it. So i did what anyone 5 miles from home would do, I rolled down the window and wiped every few seconds as I drove. I was looking through an area of the windshield about 6 inches wide and using the opposite shoulder as a guide to where I was in the road. Well needless to say I made it home and into my subdivision that had NOT been plowed at all and had to stick Mongo into 4 Low due to the depth. I made it to literally the front of my house and was high spotted on a drift then said F%$K it and locked him up and went inside!

I truly believe he saved my life as I saw snow plows, trucks, emergency vehicles and other miscellaneous vehicles ditched throughout my drive. I have a new found respect for my ride and vow to pay him back!! Attached is a picture of how he was when I woke up this morning. After about 3 hours of snow blowing, shoveling and help from some OUTSTANDING neighbors, he fired right up and was parked in his stall to thaw!

I know the feeling. I had a few good laughs. Thanks for the post.
 

CycleJay

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Marietta, Ga
Hi Guys,

The only thing I have done lately to my M1009 is:

An oil and oil filter change, using Shell Rotella-T and Fram oil filter..

Have more on my list, that will get done as I have time and money.

Good day,
 

ARYankee

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Benton, AR
Spent the weekend prepping and spraying extreeme liner onto the floors. See my full post for all details.
Really nice :) I didn't spray mine it doesn't look nearly as good. I think if I ever do it again I'll spray it on. I'll have to go check out your thread on it.
 

RBA44

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Bristow, VA
This is the best part of SS...knowledge! Thanks, I will pull the fan as you suggested and if I'm feeling lucky - I'll pull that tailgate panel and dive in.
 

cpf240

Active member
1,479
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Free in Northern Idaho
Installed the Gen2 and voltmeter relays I bought from CUCV Electric. Also greased all the zerk fittings I could find, which amounted to 4 of them.

After reading some good info on the windshield wiper parking problem from a post by 86M10086.2L, I decided to pull the cover off the park/wash switch portion of the wiper motor assembly.

I cleaned the contacts of the park switch as suggested, though they did not look too bad. I also found one of the wires from the washer pump coil was broken off at the metal connector tab.

I was able to add in a new segment of wire and solder them together.

I now have windshield wipers that park and a washer that squirts! Now I just need to lubricate the linkage and see is I can get the wipers to move a little better. They barely move in the slow position.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/members/86m10086-2l.html
 

SPCWarning

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Stonewall, MS
Wiper Linkage

cpf240, that's exactly what I did to get mine to move more smoothly and faster. The linkage, over the years I of neglect, had gotten pretty cruddy between the contacts. Removing the cowl panel and plastic screen will get you right to the linkage where you can clean/lube them. The entire job can be done in a matter of an hour or so. Mine were really slow on "hi", and would barely crawl on "lo". After cleaning/lubricating the linkage they worked 100% better. Best wishes!
Jimmy
Installed the Gen2 and voltmeter relays I bought from CUCV Electric. Also greased all the zerk fittings I could find, which amounted to 4 of them.

After reading some good info on the windshield wiper parking problem from a post by 86M10086.2L, I decided to pull the cover off the park/wash switch portion of the wiper motor assembly.

I cleaned the contacts of the park switch as suggested, though they did not look too bad. I also found one of the wires from the washer pump coil was broken off at the metal connector tab.

I was able to add in a new segment of wire and solder them together.

I now have windshield wipers that park and a washer that squirts! Now I just need to lubricate the linkage and see is I can get the wipers to move a little better. They barely move in the slow position.
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,810
1,249
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Location
Laramie County, Wyoming
This is the best part of SS...knowledge! Thanks, I will pull the fan as you suggested and if I'm feeling lucky - I'll pull that tailgate panel and dive in.
Once you get in there have a copy of the page out of the parts manual as well as the section of the TM covering the removal and replacement of the parts. That way when you go to put it back together, you'll have the knowledge in front of you. I will state that it is almost impossible to put it back together wrong. Nothing is goof proof. Taking apart...easy. Putting back together...put tab a in slot c or was that d...??? Was that B or a D...stupid Army manuals!!....you can take it from there. Just remember this is a hobby, it's supposed to be "fun"!:driver:
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Laramie County, Wyoming
Went to next town over to get a new ladder for the M35s. Contrary to any belkief, M35 vs M109 ladder equals flat ladder and didn't even know i did it.:oops: Replacement ladder was solid steel and weighed a ton. Couldn't lift it. It was sitting real near a CUCV tailgate ladder, same price, 1/4 the weight and I don't have to climb up the side of my pickup any more. Proud owner of a excellent condition CUCV tailgate ladder. Now I got to find me a M1008 to put it on....
 
367
0
18
Location
Castalian Springs, TN
Going to complete the onboard Air system install.. Still trying to trace down an air leak.. just havent had time to go over everything with soapy water yet due to work.. Work on my soon to be modified "Shankem-deep" style Sliders a bit.. than start the redesign of my TC crossmember. Pics will be posted on build thread... Its gonna be a fun weekend.....:jumpin:
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Laramie County, Wyoming
plan to take dash apart tomorrow and instal a few new bulbs and see if i can figre out why my speedo and odometer are not working anymore, just died a couple weeks ago
Speedo and odo quit because normally the speedo cable dries out (must be greased regularly) and shear off somewhere between the dash and the tranny. Instead of trying to get the cable off the back of the dash; you almost have to pull the drivers seat to get to it, disconnect it at the tranny and pull on the cable. I'd bet your cable has sheared or the gear in the tranny is shot. I seem to remember its a nylon gear and will shread at a moments notice. If the cable has sheared a dash diving you will have to go. Troubleshooting from the tranny side is easier, don't even need a creeper unless you just want to use one.
 
360
4
18
Location
southern ca
Speedo and odo quit because normally the speedo cable dries out (must be greased regularly) and shear off somewhere between the dash and the tranny. Instead of trying to get the cable off the back of the dash; you almost have to pull the drivers seat to get to it, disconnect it at the tranny and pull on the cable. I'd bet your cable has sheared or the gear in the tranny is shot. I seem to remember its a nylon gear and will shread at a moments notice. If the cable has sheared a dash diving you will have to go. Troubleshooting from the tranny side is easier, don't even need a creeper unless you just want to use one.
I will check it below first before I loose my mind and hit it from the dash. I will say I have found something that really helps me when working on the CUCV. I nice cool beer, makes life so much better and I'm less irritated when working on this truck. :beer:
 
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