What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

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donalloy1

New member
673
1
0
Location
Martinez Ca
Installed new Brake Pads and rotated Tires. Had a cracked Pad on left front inboard? No wonder she was squeeling when applied. Wonder if original from GM? Odometer shows 22k and change.

blazer_brakes_513-1383435_477074429035593_1725421119_n.jpgblazer_brakes_2941308_477074185702284_518529766_n.jpg
 

Durango_USMC

New member
668
1
0
Location
Indianapolis, IN
New CDR valve is installed. A couple old nasty sceptre mfc cans are finally completely clean and fuel worthy (never trusted a military fuel guage. Cut the old USGI lock off the chain, locked a spare tire to the cargo tiedown in the bed. Getting a road kit assembled (4way, jack, some fluids, recovery stuff, etc...). King pin rebuild starts wednesday ready, or not. Continued lubing everything, may sound stupid but Im trying to find a zerk for the U joints....
 

zaxcucv

New member
62
0
0
Location
Seacoast, NH
Motor mounts, fuel pump, some suspension bushings. Ordered ORD Front Upper Shackle Hangers, new Rare Electrical spare alternator after Gen 1 light/voltmeter showed overcharging. I searched here for info about Rare, but couldn't find any...hope that wasn't a mistake. I figured I will rebuild mine and carry a spare from now on.
 

stationjj

New member
263
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0
Location
Middle Tennessee
I also bought a Rare Electric Alternator as a spare. I couldn't find any info myself. I read about the isolated ground issues with a Wilson rebuild. I hope they aren't the same?
Thanks for any input on Rare.
 

Castle Bravo

Hundredaire Socialite
1,894
5
38
Location
Arizona
Replaced the starter. A bit harder than I remember, since the last time I did it, the truck was up on a garage lift. I had to put a bottle jack under the frame to lift it up on the suspension to get enough clearance to get the starter out from between the frame and front axle. I did this in lieu of removing the front drive shaft.
 

CUCVSRK

New member
143
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0
Location
PBG FL
I replaced the starter but never took out the driveshaft put it on a lift or used a jack didn't give me too much trouble but it was a PITA
 

Castle Bravo

Hundredaire Socialite
1,894
5
38
Location
Arizona
I replaced the starter but never took out the driveshaft put it on a lift or used a jack didn't give me too much trouble but it was a PITA
Maybe my front springs are more shot than yours... I tried and tried and tried to get it out before I raised it up.
 

Mainsail

Member
830
0
16
Location
Puget Sound, WA
I'm not sure where to best put this, but here it is. Something for the fabricators around here. At under $4 I might have to pick up a couple.

http://www.sciplus.com/p/GUARDIAN-ELECTRIC-1224VDC-PULL-SOLENOID_52455

This pull-type continuous-duty solenoid is nominally rated for 24V but works well with 12VDC at 120mA. Measures 1-1/8" square x 1" with a pair of 3/16" quick-disconnect terminals. The plunger is 1-11/16" x 1/4" dia with a slotted cotter pin hole. Working distance is 1-1/4". Has a 116 Ohm coil. Made in the USA by Guardian Electric, part #A420-065454-00.
52455.jpg
 

Dirty1

New member
47
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0
Location
MA
I finished up the coolant flush and hose replacement. Picked up a bed full of manure for the garden with another load for tomorrow.
 

85CUCVtom

Member
706
5
16
Location
Lakewood, Ohio
I stripped a load of parts off a friends basket case parts M1009.

I scored me a dash harness with the fusebox, two of the little tail light harnesses, the harness that goes across the rear bumper, the harness that runs from the firewall side of the fuse box to the rear of the vehicle, blackout switches, black plastic cluster bezel and some seatbelts.
 

Keith_J

New member
2,893
2
0
Location
Schertz TX
I finally got around to restarting my air conditioning project on my M1031. That would be the 28 volt electric drive compressor and under dash evaporator. Measured and cut all the hoses and bent the compressor-condenser tube (long distance between compressor and condenser). Wired up the compressor, running off the buss block in back of the rear battery. Ran a 150 amp circuit breaker off the positive using #2 wire. Installed the breaker and the 400 amp contactor to the frame. Solidified the evaporator mounting by welding the right side bracket, then painting it to match the CARC interior.

All I need to do is mount the receiver-dryer, mount the aluminum compressor outlet tube to the truck's frame, wire the control system (evaporator-pressure switch-contactor) and seal the system. Evacuate and charge.

Since this is a prototype, I don't know what the optimum charge of R134a will be. Regular automotive systems run at varying speeds, this one will run a 2500-3000 RPM constantly.
 

85CUCVtom

Member
706
5
16
Location
Lakewood, Ohio
Since this is a prototype, I don't know what the optimum charge of R134a will be. Regular automotive systems run at varying speeds, this one will run a 2500-3000 RPM constantly.
Do you have refrigerant guages? If you do, a place to start would be to charge the evaporator coil to 40 degrees.
 

Keith_J

New member
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Location
Schertz TX
Do you have refrigerant guages? If you do, a place to start would be to charge the evaporator coil to 40 degrees.
Yes, I have a set of R134a manifold gauges. 40 F at the evaporator during the hottest weather would be perfect.

The only performance chart I have found for the Sanden SD7H13 is at 28/135 F evaporator/condenser temperatures. So at a lower delta T, the performance should be much better.

I was thinking about recovering the condensate off the evaporator, filtering it and spraying it on the condenser when the trinary switch calls for additional fans to turn on.
 

85CUCVtom

Member
706
5
16
Location
Lakewood, Ohio
I don't know very much regarding automotive air conditioning, I work on commercial refrigeration and heating and cooling. The theory of operation is the same though.
 
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