tim292stro
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California bureau of automotive repair directs service shops that if the tires are 10+ years old, the shop may only touch them to replace them.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
- Thread starter Warthog
- Start date
bryfor
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Bought a pair of 24 volt ir lights with both red and clear lenses. Thought about installing on fiberglass roof but would need reinforcing due to heaviness of them. Plus leary of snagging them upon tree limbs. Probably will mount them to brush guard with a home fabricated bracket to avoid drilling holes. Now...the search for a 24 volt relay and 4 male end packard connectors!
gottaluvit
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You can relay with 12v, switching your 24v source on and off. As long as the 12v relay's switches are for enough amperage. I happened to have a 12v high amperage relay and ran 12v through my M929's reversing switch to the relay which switches 24v on and off to my reversing lights and backup horn.
bryfor
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Thanks for the info
rsh4364
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Changed oil and filter again.I change at 2500 miles since it gets driven at 3000 plus rpms.Takes 2 gallons Rotella T6 and 2 quart filter.
tim292stro
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Installed LED blackout light (Trucklite), new grill (NOS), un-bent the NATO port, fixed glow plug system 
86k5
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I had purchased a k and n filter for it a few months ago. It never did fit. Ive had my hands on a parts suburban that has the 6.2 in it. Well took the filter housing off it. Cleaned it up painted it. And put it on the blazer. Looks good. But with that k and n filter it sounds louder. I can hear it sucking air. I dont know if its a bad thing or not.
tim292stro
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My 
, put a foam covered paper filter back on...
I ran a K&N filter in my Toyota pickup for a few years, one time I went to clean the throttle body as part of a tune-up - there was a fine oily dust coating the entire interior of the intake. All that crap came through the air filter and took the K&N oil with it. Coated everything and probably took a few years of life off my rings and valves.
I went to an AEM disposable air filter - turned out that the shape and square inches were the big gain with K&N, the AEM had the same shape and filter area, so it wasn't a power loss, but I stopped having crap get into the engine too.
, put a foam covered paper filter back on...I ran a K&N filter in my Toyota pickup for a few years, one time I went to clean the throttle body as part of a tune-up - there was a fine oily dust coating the entire interior of the intake. All that crap came through the air filter and took the K&N oil with it. Coated everything and probably took a few years of life off my rings and valves.
I went to an AEM disposable air filter - turned out that the shape and square inches were the big gain with K&N, the AEM had the same shape and filter area, so it wasn't a power loss, but I stopped having crap get into the engine too.
Mg84648
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I was driving home last night and my headlights started flashing on and off. Today I found the headlight fuse half melted. I cleaned the fuse block contacts with crocus cloth and contact cleaner and replaced the damaged 25 amp fuse with the correct 30 amp. Works like a champ now!
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gottaluvit
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That's funny, as I had to do the same thing and had the same low amp fuse in it. No problems since.
thz71
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Measured for shocks
the skull
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Well 2 weeks later and I have managed to completely piss it off.
After figuring out there's no signal to the starter,
no signal to the relay under the dash, (the doghead relay), I have
printed off the diagram from the sticky and will be replacing the
electrical part of the ignition switch tomorrow since it was $15
After figuring out there's no signal to the starter,
no signal to the relay under the dash, (the doghead relay), I have
printed off the diagram from the sticky and will be replacing the
electrical part of the ignition switch tomorrow since it was $15
cucvrus
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Have you checked all your fusible links under the 24 volt buss bar. Even if the look good look closely. That is what was wrong with another members CUCV last week. Just 1 little fusible link burnt off and you are Kaput.
the skull
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I have a Power Probe I have been using to check stuff with since
it shows 12v or 24v or ground. But I haven't checked the fusible links
there. I haven't checked any of them because I'm not sure how to, unless
I cut them out.
it shows 12v or 24v or ground. But I haven't checked the fusible links
there. I haven't checked any of them because I'm not sure how to, unless
I cut them out.
cucvrus
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Just probe them and pull them lightly. Sometimes the wire inside burns and let the rubber in place. Check them very closely. It may be worth your time and ave you a few steps.
the skull
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I'm on it. I'll check that first. Thanks.![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
This is a design flaw in the CUCV. Too many amps pass through that fuse. You need the LMC headlight relay mod. See the "Headlight" section in http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123199-CUCV-Helpful-Threads. Don't put it off and melt your fuse block like I did.
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CUCVLOVER
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Did you really start a Cucv at -20F? What mods have been done to help it start?
This winter, I drive the CUCV every day, whatever the temperature.
We did the usual SS mods and maintenance stuff. Antennaclimber glowplug card. Fresh glowplugs. GP resistor bypass. Fresh GP relay. Dog Head starter relay. Big commercial Penn batteries, each rated 1000 CCA at 0 degrees, kept topped off by trickle charger when truck is not in use. HD Napa alternator belts, driving 160A 12V and 100A 24V alternators for 4.3KW of power. Plan B Mod to eliminate DUVAC. Stanadyne anti-gel fuel additive. Fresh oil, oil filter, and fuel filter. Upgraded battery cables. Grounds & power connections cleaned and lubed with NO-OX-ID electrical contact lubricant. Good maintenance. Original starter. All this is well documented elsewhere on SS.
When it's bitter cold, well below 0, I cycle the glowplugs twice, crank for 10-20 seconds, cycle the GPs twice more, and it starts with effort and 3/4 throttle. It runs rough at first, but it smooths out quickly. (A new IP rebuild would probably help that. I'm running the original IP.) By "cycle the glow plugs", I mean turn off the key, turn on the key, and wait for the "wait" light to go out. I'm west of Boston, so -20s is about as cold as it gets here.
If I do my part regarding maintenance, the CUCV starts. If the glowplugs get hot, the starter gets juice, and the fuel flows properly, the CUCV should start.
I have the parts for the Arctic heater kit, that pre-heats the coolant, the oil, the cab and the batteries using 2 fuel-fired heaters, plus the M1010 has another fuel-fired heater for the passenger compartment. (Webasto sells commercial coolant heaters, if you want new.) I'm learning how to properly maintain all that before I install it. That stuff would come into play at much colder temperatures and higher altitudes.