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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

cucvrus

Well-known member
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I have been using a Gates Green Stripe XL 9580. It is a 1/2" wide belt and sits high in the pulley like the OEM belt did on that side. I get a few years out of one. I use these things hard. I also have everything hooked up as it came from the factory with the resistors and the 13g AC Delco glow plugs and all. I never have issues with the belts. if I so much as hear a squeak from them I get the tools out and tighten the belts. I have the other numbers also. Just not at my finger tips at the moment. I hope that helps.
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
I have been using a Gates Green Stripe XL 9580. It is a 1/2" wide belt and sits high in the pulley like the OEM belt did on that side. I get a few years out of one. I use these things hard. I also have everything hooked up as it came from the factory with the resistors and the 13g AC Delco glow plugs and all. I never have issues with the belts. if I so much as hear a squeak from them I get the tools out and tighten the belts. I have the other numbers also. Just not at my finger tips at the moment. I hope that helps.
I'll get a squeal from the belts if they're even slightly loose and I fire up the landing lights. 2x 450 watts puts a serious drag on the alts. :3dAngus:
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
Today I started the task of Making my cucv a gas burner.
I am taking the 6.2 Diesel out and putting a 454 gasser in. I keep having a lot of problems from the 6.2 and just don't have time right now to deal with them. So in a gasser goes, eventually the 6.2 will get a full rebuild with all new parts and all brand new (not reman) fuel injection and be back under the green machines hood.
Here is the thread for the swap.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...g-block-gas-burner-swap&p=1922689#post1922689
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Trust me it is wider. Not all Green Stripe belts are wider. But that number 9580 XL belt is wider. It will sit high in the pulley and thus give you a bit more adjustment. Make sure you have the green stripe belt loose when you are tightening the power steering belt. After you have the Power steering belt and all the adjustment points tight. Get the new belt tightened. But have it in place on the pulleys when doing the final tightening of gen 1. I hope that helps.
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,423
1,441
113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Trust me it is wider. Not all Green Stripe belts are wider. But that number 9580 XL belt is wider. It will sit high in the pulley and thus give you a bit more adjustment. Make sure you have the green stripe belt loose when you are tightening the power steering belt. After you have the Power steering belt and all the adjustment points tight. Get the new belt tightened. But have it in place on the pulleys when doing the final tightening of gen 1. I hope that helps.
Thanks

I ordered the Lisle tool for tightening the belts, the prybar-through-the-bracket-hole doesn't seem to give good results, and the tool is cheap. They had to order it so it may take a week or so.

I still need to look up the tightening technique in the maintenance manual to make sure I get all the bolts loose and then retightened. My power steering belt was really loose and I don't know why.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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9,625
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Inspect that bracket the pump mounts to really really closely. They tend to crack and the pump won't tighten up properly or worse it comes free (usually while you're driving).


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This is a very true statement. What tool is used to tighten belts. Is it a turn buckle style? Never used one so I guess I will see and possibly learn something. I am glad V belts are a thing of the past for the most part.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160930/afd02172a14842e944c255a156bb1cb8.jpg

I did want to add. Do not throw away CUCV power steering pump brackets no matter if they are broken or not. They are very hard to find and have been discontinued for years. I had attempted to have a shop fabricate them but it was cost prohibited. I would need to run off a couple hundred to make it worth while. On top of that I would have to sell them and that is not easy. But you can weld and reinforce the old ones and make them stronger then new. You must have good welding skills and be accurate with the repairs. No hack jobs or you will just create more problems. I have one I want to rebuild when I get time I will post pictures. When that time comes. Also adding a M10 flat washer on the front lower pivot point behind the bracket helps keep the hex head of the M10 stud from chewing up your pivot point. Good Luck. If this helps just one person out of a jam I have met my goal for today.
 

3jumpjeep

Member
157
1
16
Location
Linsdale, TN
These are 235s and they are a little close. Going to have to run 80psi to keep them that way. I originally wanted 255s and was going with the BFG Mud Terrains like I have on my ambulance but the reviews on these was stellar. Since we have snow here in tge mountains, I wanted at least one truck with a decent snow tire. These were it.
I put 235/85-R16s on my 1028A2 two years and 11k miles ago. I think they're fairly quiet... No louder than truck anyway. Seem to be wearing well. Dana 70 rear running the spacers that the truck came with.


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Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
GA Mountains
I put 235/85-R16s on my 1028A2 two years and 11k miles ago. I think they're fairly quiet... No louder than truck anyway. Seem to be wearing well. Dana 70 rear running the spacers that the truck came with.


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Spacers? Where are they situated? Between the wheels?
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
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Location
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Interesting. Did you purchase it that way? I've considered them and was recently researcing longer studs. My truck has the chassis cab 14 bolt but my old K30 had the 70 rear and neither had spacers.
 

3jumpjeep

Member
157
1
16
Location
Linsdale, TN
Interesting. Did you purchase it that way? I've considered them and was recently researcing longer studs. My truck has the chassis cab 14 bolt but my old K30 had the 70 rear and neither had spacers.
Truck is '86 M1028A2. Was M1031 that was converted by government in '91. Everything is as I bought it in 2014. I believe the spacers are original with the '91 conversion.


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