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What should I look for in a 1028 purchase?

moose

New member
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phoenix/arizona
Hi there everyone, I looked for a similar thread, but did not see one that had what I was looking for so here goes. I am looking to buy a low priced m1028 or m1008 for work, and hunting/hauling my quad or dirtbike. I need the truck to be reliable. I have owned 1980's GM trucks in the past, and I am comfortable working on them, but I don't have any experience with the 6.2 diesel or the differences in military trucks vs civilian ones.
My question is, what should I look for in a m1028 or m1008, and what should I be aware of when looking for my truck? I hope you guys will chime in with your knowledge and experience gained from owning these trucks. Thanks in advance for any advice that you would be willing to let me know.
Besides, I need my first mv to be an official member of this site!:) The next one is going to be a 5 ton, but this is a good start.
 

Chief_919

Well-known member
2,050
100
63
Location
Western NC
The two things I always look for-

12v conversion- I don't have an issue doing a 12v conversion, because I know I can do it right. But 99% of the conversions I see out there are hobbled together by folks who don't know what they are doing. If it is 24v, you are good. 12v, look at it very, very closely.

Tell them you want it cold when you get there to look at it. Whenever I go to look at a diesel truck and it is running or freshly run when I get there, I get suspicious. Cold starts tell you a lot about the condition of the truck.When I look at a diesel truck, I want to start it cold, warm it up driving it, and then shut it down and restart it hot.
 

BIG_RED

New member
385
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0
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Smooth running after 5 minute warm up. Clean tranny fluid, red not brown, no burnt smell. Check for underbody rust. Check that you can shift t-case into 4x4 while coasting (make sure that front hubs are manually locked first). Check for fuel leaks near the filter (passenger side firewall, rectangular box thing). Check the voltage meter. There is a small "tic mark" in the green area. That is where the needle should point. Get the current owner to leave it alone for a few days, then go start it yourself. If it starts easy, it's good. If you have trouble, might need fuel lines, glow plugs, Injector Pump, etc, etc. Let it warm up for 5 minutes. Shut it off, wait a few minutes, try to start it again. Should be easy - if harder than the first start, you have glow plug card problem. Drop your price a bit, but it's not hard to fix. Check around where the cylinder heads meet the block. Look for coolant leaks. After warm up, if it's warm out, there should not be smoke out the exhaust. Go smell exhaust. If it smells like coolent, think head gaskets. (common problem on these). Look at the harmonic damper from underneath. (lowest pulley, the one on front of crankshaft). It has an inner metal hub and an outer metal ring with 1/8" of rubber in between. Check the rubber for cracks and bulges. Grab the outer ring, see if you can turn it separately from the hub (you shouldn't be able too). If you have one, bring a metal marker. Mark a line across the outer ring to the hub. Take a test drive. The marker line should line up after you shut it off. If the outer ring has shifted, the damper is shot. It's not the hardest thing to replace, but if it's shot it puts extra stress on the crankshaft. These engines are known for breaking crankshafts. Check the "lift pump" (low pressure fuel pump) (low on front of engine, passenger side) look for leaks. Look in the cylinder valley with a flashlight. (remove air cleaner to see). Diesel in the valley is a sign that the pump seals are going on the Injector Pump. Look where the brake booster would be. You'll find a hydraboost unit. It is a hydraulic booster powered by power steering pump. Check it for leaks. Check all fluids. Check under truck. Look at axels, frame, bumpstops (rubber triangles that the diffs run into if you bottom out). If it looks like it's been abused, you might not want it. Test driving should show good breaks, easy steering that isn't super sloppy. Listen for bearing noises. Tranny should shift firm but not slam. Check coolant - should be fairly clean. These engines don't take overheating well. There are oil and tranny cooler lines on the drivers side fender / frame rail. Check them for leaks. Check the batteries. Should be clean, full of fluid, not corroded. You need good batteries. All I can think of for now. Good luck!
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
4
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
Just a good check as you would any car/truck remember its 20+ years old as stated starts good cold drives good will say alot. There will be things that need to be fixed what are you willing to do only you can answer that and remember these are not hi speed trucks, 55mph is about what you want with stock tires and truck! no bling here just what is needed but pleanty of heavy duty for the year of the trucks perfect hunt or work truck GOOD LUCK!:driver:
 

moose

New member
30
0
0
Location
phoenix/arizona
Thanks for the quick responses fella's! I'm going to look at one tomorrow, so this info is appreciated and right on time. Thanks again. I will be sure to post before and after picks if I get it, as I can't resist working on a project vehicle.
 
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