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What the Heck is Going On with this Speedometer???

Sganderson

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You may have to get creative to get the new cable back through the rubber grommet leading into the cab.
Personally I taped a sharpie marker to the end of the cable to push and pull it through.
Don’t forget to lubricate the new cable.
 

jplace1011

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You may have to get creative to get the new cable back through the rubber grommet leading into the cab.
Personally I taped a sharpie marker to the end of the cable to push and pull it through.
Don’t forget to lubricate the new cable.
That’s a great idea! When the last guy put the cable in he must have widened or removed the grommet. There’s gray stuff plugging the whole. It maybe be something from a tube. I’ll see how easy or difficult the cable and gray stuff come out. I’ll report back. Thank you for the sharpie tip!


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jplace1011

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That’s a great idea! When the last guy put the cable in he must have widened or removed the grommet. There’s gray stuff plugging the whole. It maybe be something from a tube. I’ll see how easy or difficult the cable and gray stuff come out. I’ll report back. Thank you for the sharpie tip!


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I figured it out, the Oil Light above the Gen 2 light won’t turn on. I tried changing the bulb, but that didn’t work. Any ideas?


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Mullaney

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I figured it out, the Oil Light above the Gen 2 light won’t turn on. I tried changing the bulb, but that didn’t work. Any ideas?


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Socket looked good when you replaced the bulb?
Do you see a ground wire? If not, maybe a short wire with alligator clips on both ends - so you can jump from the housing of a working dash light to the oil light that isn't working?

Other than that, next point to look at is the sending unit wire.
Can you light up a test light when you turn the truck on at startup?
 

jplace1011

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Socket looked good when you replaced the bulb?
Do you see a ground wire? If not, maybe a short wire with alligator clips on both ends - so you can jump from the housing of a working dash light to the oil light that isn't working?

Other than that, next point to look at is the sending unit wire.
Can you light up a test light when you turn the truck on at startup?
The socket looked good, it was awfully dirty. So I wiped it off and blew air into it. When you say ground wire, I’m assuming that would be one of the wires going into the socket?

I do have a test light, do I just ground one end then place the other end into the socket when turning it on?

Sorry for all of the questions, I have a lot to learn.


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Mullaney

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The socket looked good, it was awfully dirty. So I wiped it off and blew air into it. When you say ground wire, I’m assuming that would be one of the wires going into the socket?

I do have a test light, do I just ground one end then place the other end into the socket when turning it on?

Sorry for all of the questions, I have a lot to learn.


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You might even try swapping a bulb that is working into the socket that isn't working - just to see if the bulb is the problem. Yes sir. Testing to the pin in the bottom of the light socket is a good test.

Testing for ground is pretty easy too - but it just seems weird the first time.

What you do to test for ground is attaching the tester alligator clip to positive voltage. Normally with a scrap piece of wire, go out to the positive terminal on the battery. Attach the wire in some form or fashion... A pair of vice grips is a quick way. REMEMBERING that it is now a hot wire, drag the other end into the truck and attach the tester to the "hot" wire. Then touch the metal dash or the brake peddle or the emergency brake peddle. There is a ground point behind the emergency brake (just fyi). Once you have confirmed that you have a good power feed, touch the back of the gauge and see if the test light works. Does it light up on one of the gauges (idiot lights) that you know works?
 

jplace1011

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You might even try swapping a bulb that is working into the socket that isn't working - just to see if the bulb is the problem. Yes sir. Testing to the pin in the bottom of the light socket is a good test.

Testing for ground is pretty easy too - but it just seems weird the first time.

What you do to test for ground is attaching the tester alligator clip to positive voltage. Normally with a scrap piece of wire, go out to the positive terminal on the battery. Attach the wire in some form or fashion... A pair of vice grips is a quick way. REMEMBERING that it is now a hot wire, drag the other end into the truck and attach the tester to the "hot" wire. Then touch the metal dash or the brake peddle or the emergency brake peddle. There is a ground point behind the emergency brake (just fyi). Once you have confirmed that you have a good power feed, touch the back of the gauge and see if the test light works. Does it light up on one of the gauges (idiot lights) that you know works?
I swapped out a new bulb for the oil light. It still doesn’t work. Another thing I noticed is the light next to it (4wheel drive) doesn’t work either. I switched bulbs and it doesn’t work. It seems like there’s a sheet of something moving around as well. It covers the hole a bit and I have to press down on it. It sits on the back of the dash. Not sure if that makes sense or matters?

I think it’s this blue-ish gray material:



I have a video if that helps?


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jplace1011

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That won’t hurt to look! Thank you.


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The fuse is fine. One thing I noticed is, it’s not easy to twist that oil bulb back in. Not sure if that matters. I’m sure hoping I don’t have to start taking the dash apart!


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jplace1011

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The fuse is fine. One thing I noticed is, it’s not easy to twist that oil bulb back in. Not sure if that matters. I’m sure hoping I don’t have to start taking the dash apart!


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I’m beginning to think I should try cleaning the contact points for the bulbs. Where the bulbs contact the back of the dashboard. I just just don’t know if there’s enough room to do that without taking the dash apart. I’ll take a look!


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ezgn

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I swapped out a new bulb for the oil light. It still doesn’t work. Another thing I noticed is the light next to it (4wheel drive) doesn’t work either. I switched bulbs and it doesn’t work. It seems like there’s a sheet of something moving around as well. It covers the hole a bit and I have to press down on it. It sits on the back of the dash. Not sure if that makes sense or matters?

I think it’s this blue-ish gray material:



I have a video if that helps?


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That is your ribbon circuit board. If your bulb socket is not making contact with the copper on the circuit board it obviously will not work. Make sure the ribbon circuit board is in place and making contact with the bulb socket.
 

jplace1011

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That is your ribbon circuit board. If your bulb socket is not making contact with the copper on the circuit board it obviously will not work. Make sure the ribbon circuit board is in place and making contact with the bulb socket.
ezgn that’s what I’m thinking as well. I watched a video and noticed my doesn’t look right. I’m going to go back under and really look around!

Thanks for the help, I’ll report back!


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ezgn

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ezgn that’s what I’m thinking as well. I watched a video and noticed my doesn’t look right. I’m going to go back under and really look around!

Thanks for the help, I’ll report back!


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Those circuit boards if I remember correctly are not really attached by anything other than the sockets holding them in place. it is normal for them not to be plastered down tight. You will notice that the circuit board will be somewhat wavy in places.
 

jplace1011

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Those circuit boards if I remember correctly are not really attached by anything other than the sockets holding them in place. it is normal for them not to be plastered down tight. You will notice that the circuit board will be somewhat wavy in places.
I have noticed it’s hard to twist the Oil bulb back in. I have a suspicion the circuit board might be riding a tad high, blocking/obstructing the bulb. I’m wondering if there’s a way to just pull it down somehow. Maybe that will help with the connection as well. It was awfully dirty in that area as well, that doesn’t help! I really don’t want to have to pull the dash out. I’ll have to look closely tomorrow or Monday. Thanks for the heads up!


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ezgn

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Lake Elsinore Ca.
I have noticed it’s hard to twist the Oil bulb back in. I have a suspicion the circuit board might be riding a tad high, blocking/obstructing the bulb. I’m wondering if there’s a way to just pull it down somehow. Maybe that will help with the connection as well. It was awfully dirty in that area as well, that doesn’t help! I really don’t want to have to pull the dash out. I’ll have to look closely tomorrow or Monday. Thanks for the heads up!


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Just twist the bulb socket and remove it, inspect it for damage and get a new one if needed.
 

jplace1011

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Just twist the bulb socket and remove it, inspect it for damage and get a new one if needed.
Ahhh! Ok! I’ll look, I may even post a pic for you to look at. The 4 Wheel Drive light I’ll look at as well while I’m at it.

Thanks again!!


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jplace1011

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Ahhh! Ok! I’ll look, I may even post a pic for you to look at. The 4 Wheel Drive light I’ll look at as well while I’m at it.

Thanks again!!


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p.s. if I need a new socket any idea what the part number is/where to get one?

That gets me to thinking about LED bulbs and sockets. Hmmm, imagine green ones.


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Last edited:

ezgn

Well-known member
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Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
p.s. if I need a new socket any idea what the part number is/where to get one?

That gets me to thinking about LED bulbs and sockets. Hmmm, imagine green ones.


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Classic Parts 1967-87 Chevy Trucks Instrument Panel Bulb Socket $.99 cents.5/8'' round hole. There are many other places that carry them as well.
 

jplace1011

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Location
Santa Ana, CA
Classic Parts 1967-87 Chevy Trucks Instrument Panel Bulb Socket $.99 cents.5/8'' round hole. There are many other places that carry them as well.
I found them at Napa. Thank you for the suggestion. I’ll report back once I get them.


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