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What to do while I'm at it...

Sharecropper

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I believe with A/C and a turbo, and especially in hot climates, you might want to consider replacing the OEM engine-driven fan/clutch with a radiator-mounted electric fan. For my Supercharged P400 / 765R4 / NP241 drivetrain swap, which I am anticipating will need a copious amount of cooling capacity, I have installed a new Derale #16843 High-Output Dual electric unit with the #16797 controller which will pull 4800 cfm through the radiator as needed. The controller has a thermostat which glues to the radiator tank and monitors the tank temperature and subsequently adjusts the fan speed accordingly to keep the tank (and the coolant in it) at a constant acceptable temperature. While you may not need an electric fan with these cfm capacities, a conversion from the engine-driven fan to a stand-alone fan will undoubtedly help. You should also remember that when the fan clutch locks up, it steals horsepower to turn the fan. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps and adds enlightenment.

IMG_1202.jpg
 

87cr250r

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The horsepower isn't free to run the electric fans, either. You're just losing in the alternators + their inefficiency.

That radiator looks nice. What is it?
 

Sharecropper

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The horsepower isn't free to run the electric fans, either. You're just losing in the alternators + their inefficiency.

That radiator looks nice. What is it?
True, but I had rather shift the load burden to the alternators so the horses don't have to pull the load.

I can't seem to locate my paperwork regarding the source for the radiator. I will post it on here when I find it. It fit perfect by the way, all aluminum.
 

Sharecropper

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True, but I had rather shift the load burden to the alternators so the horses don't have to pull the load.

I can't seem to locate my paperwork regarding the source for the radiator. I will post it on here when I find it. It fit perfect by the way, all aluminum.
Just found the source for the all-aluminum radiator. It came from RadiatorExpress.com, SKU#220902 Radiator 1984 Chevrolet K30 - 6.2 Liter V8 379Cid Radiator All Aluminum Diesel, Standard Thread 34 X 19 | Radiator Express

Hope this helps.
 

Sharecropper

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Drop-in? No futzing with fittings or adapters?
Yes. Drop in and all lines fit and were in the correct OEM location. The only thing I ran across when installing was the new radiator was approximately 1/8" shorter in height than the OEM radiator. I simply cut a piece of neoprene rubber to sit on top of the mounting tabs which tightened everything up. The radiator is very robust, and all aluminum welds are very nice and consistent. By the way, when I finish installing my new drivetrain, I'm going to have a ton of OEM parts for sale, including the original 6.2/TH400/NP208 drivetrain with 15,178 actual miles. There was nothing wrong with my OEM radiator, but because of the higher projected horsepower of the supercharged P400, I felt a new, higher-efficiency all-aluminum radiator would improve the heat egress.
 

79Vette

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This might sound stupid, but does the OP have a fan shroud and is it in good condition? This is very important and hasn't been addressed.
Yes, I do.

I installed my gear drive timing set, flowkooler water pump, fluidamper, and new 2.5" thick aluminum radiator last night. I had to move the AC condenser forward to make space for the thicker radiator, and I'm having the same problem noted earlier on this thread where the new radiator is slightly too short so I'll have to make some rubber spacers for the clamps.

This is everything I could think to try other than trying to find an upgraded fan which seems hard for the clockwise rotation v belt engines. With my work travel schedule it'll be a week or two before I get it out on the road but I'll post back with an update if there is any improvement
 

dezertdemond

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I went through this same thing with my M1009. I have a 6.2l with an ATS turbo on it, Vintage AC, 39" tires, TH400, and also live in So Cal. Needless to say, the thing would run really hot until I upgraded the entire cooling system. Here is what I did, and I no longer have any overheating issues. Bigger radiator (had mine re-cored with massive 2 row brass), flow-kooler water pump, high flow / balanced thermostat 180*, Derale 6 blade 20" fan, and a Hayden severe duty fan clutch with lower lockup temp. Also ensure that there is nothing blocking airflow to the radiator (lights, winch, etc.) and that your coolers are mounted with the proper gap in between each. You have already bought the expensive stuff, but I would highly recommend the fan and clutch while you're already at it. Fan and clutch are a direct bolt in and work perfect with the factory shroud. The thermostat is required for that hi flow pump or it will actually cause more problems than good. Here are the part numbers: Fan- Derale 17120. Thermostat- Robert Shaw 370-180 or Mr. Gasket 4367. Clutch- Hayden 2799. Give those a try and you shouldn't have any more issues in the heat!
 

CARC686

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I went through this same thing with my M1009. I have a 6.2l with an ATS turbo on it, Vintage AC, 39" tires, TH400, and also live in So Cal. Needless to say, the thing would run really hot until I upgraded the entire cooling system. Here is what I did, and I no longer have any overheating issues. Bigger radiator (had mine re-cored with massive 2 row brass), flow-kooler water pump, high flow / balanced thermostat 180*, Derale 6 blade 20" fan, and a Hayden severe duty fan clutch with lower lockup temp. Also ensure that there is nothing blocking airflow to the radiator (lights, winch, etc.) and that your coolers are mounted with the proper gap in between each. You have already bought the expensive stuff, but I would highly recommend the fan and clutch while you're already at it. Fan and clutch are a direct bolt in and work perfect with the factory shroud. The thermostat is required for that hi flow pump or it will actually cause more problems than good. Here are the part numbers: Fan- Derale 17120. Thermostat- Robert Shaw 370-180 or Mr. Gasket 4367. Clutch- Hayden 2799. Give those a try and you shouldn't have any more issues in the heat!
Can I ask about your lift/trim to get 39's under there?

Edit: Nevermind. I just looked up where you posted about it. Sorry for hijacking the thread.
 

79Vette

Active member
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I went through this same thing with my M1009. I have a 6.2l with an ATS turbo on it, Vintage AC, 39" tires, TH400, and also live in So Cal. Needless to say, the thing would run really hot until I upgraded the entire cooling system. Here is what I did, and I no longer have any overheating issues. Bigger radiator (had mine re-cored with massive 2 row brass), flow-kooler water pump, high flow / balanced thermostat 180*, Derale 6 blade 20" fan, and a Hayden severe duty fan clutch with lower lockup temp. Also ensure that there is nothing blocking airflow to the radiator (lights, winch, etc.) and that your coolers are mounted with the proper gap in between each. You have already bought the expensive stuff, but I would highly recommend the fan and clutch while you're already at it. Fan and clutch are a direct bolt in and work perfect with the factory shroud. The thermostat is required for that hi flow pump or it will actually cause more problems than good. Here are the part numbers: Fan- Derale 17120. Thermostat- Robert Shaw 370-180 or Mr. Gasket 4367. Clutch- Hayden 2799. Give those a try and you shouldn't have any more issues in the heat!
This is great info, thank you!

I have the Robert shaw thermostat and 2799 clutch. I'll look into on the fan upgrade though.

I just built a new bumper to move the winch and lights out of the way and that helped, but it didn't solve the problem. I'm hoping to get on the highway with the new water pump and radiator soon and see what happens, but I'll probably just order the fan and install it when it arrives
 
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