What to look for in a CUCV

[Wiggleattack]

Wanting to get FIRST M1009

Howdy y'all.

Im looking into purchasing an 85 M1009 CUCV K5 blazer as a "first" car. I plan on this being a daily driver and would like to make small road trips in it. So before i get to deep into it, i figured i'd ask some basic questions. And yes, i am aware of the lack of A/C and a radio and all other forms of comfort.

1: Is it capable of reaching highway-ish speeds?
2: Would i have to convert it to 12-V to hook up speakers and a radio?
3: I understand that there is always something to do on one, but are they simple enough to work on?
3.5: Is it major components that break, or is it more likely the starter/alternator type of things? (something i can pick up at autozone/scrap yard and install that day)
4: Is there anything special about the batteries or will one from a normal store suffice?
5: Are they strong enough to pull someone out of the mud or am i lucky that its pulling its own weight?
6: What is a good place to get one?

I found one on Craigslist, what do y'all think of it. Needs ball-joints and shocks.

**** rmoved Craigslist link ****


Im also looking on Govliquidation, any word on ones off of their?

I live in South Texas BTW and am kinda limited on the distance, so no going cross country.

 

[Warthog]

All of you questions have been asked and answered many times. You have alot of reading to do. Read the Wiki, readt the FAQ, readt the stickies.

1. The M1009 will do 65-70mph all day long. With the 3.08 gearing the engine will survive. At 60 the engine will be real happy.
2. Most of the truck is 12v already. No need to convert
3. 98% of the truck is stock Chevy stuff. 1984 K5 Blazer. Because of the age, some of the parts are not at the store but stocked at the warehouse.
4. The stock truck uses 2 12v batteries to run the starter and glowplugs (read the GP sticky)
5. With the 3.08 gears, pulling someone out is stretching it. The Gov-Loc Positrac is a ticking timebomb. They are found on many GM vehicles
6. Buy from an individual. You can kick the tires and test drive. With Govliquidations, they are a crapshot if you get a good one.

One thing you didn't tell us is what are your mechanical skills? While the CUCVs are very simple, you might be hard pressed to find a mechanic willing to work on it.

 

[Wiggleattack]

Howdy Y'all

Firstly, i would like to thank y'all for the help from my last post, along with apologize for breaking the forum rules. But back to topic;

I know getting a M1009 from GovLiquidation is a crapshoot, but are there any tips? Like if the interior is in unusually good condition, generally that means the drive train is shot or something along those lines.

Also; the site says "starts and runs," im assuming that means just enough to get on a trailer? I want to get one that i can drive back home (about 250 miles) so im wondering if there are any veterans who mind giving me some tips.

Last thing: can i view the vehicle in person while the bid is still open before buying it?

V/R
Wiggle

 

[Warthog]

Merged your threads as they are about the same subject.


Here is a word document that talks about Deuces. Some of it applies to the CUCVs

 

[Warthog]

GL is a crapshoot. Most of the trucks are moved with a forklift. Sometimes the drives shafts get bent and sometimes not.

I could plan on buying a Deuce from GL and maybe driving it, but I would never plan on driving a CUCV off base. Too many issues that would need to be addressed first. Also some bases wil NOT allow vehicles to be driven off base. Trailer or tow are your two options. Call first.

I have a M1009 that "starts and runs". I wouldn't drive it because the crankshaft is broken into but it still runs. Sounds terible but it does run.

With GL you only have 2 days to inspect your items. Only while the bidding is open. No pre-inspections. At least at the locations I go to.

Are you going to answer the question as to what your mechanical skills are? Without knowing that we might be pointing you in the wrong direction.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I know getting a M1009 from GovLiquidation is a crapshoot, but are there any tips? Like if the interior is in unusually good condition, generally that means the drive train is shot or something along those lines.

I don't think so. They are all over the place. No rules, except buyer beware and check it over carefully.

Also; the site says "starts and runs," im assuming that means just enough to get on a trailer?

Yep. Mine was listed as "starts and runs". I even watched them move it in the video. Got there to pick it up and it wouldn't shift out of 1st. Blew an alternator belt while I was finding that out. Had to come back the next day with a trailer.

I want to get one that i can drive back home (about 250 miles) so im wondering if there are any veterans who mind giving me some tips.

Don't. Even. Think. About. It.


Tow it, or bettter yet, trailer it. THEN check it over at home. THEN repair what needs repairing. THEN drive it 250 miles.

Last thing: can i view the vehicle in person while the bid is still open before buying it?

Yep. Call to be sure before bidding!

 

[Wiggleattack]

My mechanical skills are semi novice. Im capable of doing mostly anything as long as it doesnt involve dropping the transmission or engine. My work space would be a parking lot; i would be assisted by a friend who is much more capable as far as vehicles go.

 

[scoutdoors1000]

I would recommend buying one from someone who has had it driving. I did so and still having problems with it. Look around and you will find them here and there in used car lots. I see one about 2x a year. Personally bought mine off craigs list after driving it in person. Was someones hunting vehicle but the economy forced him to sell. Had several problems that take it out of the daily driver category.

 

[2HIJOS2126]

I would recommend for you to start reading every thread in this site.... And I mean EVERY thread.... You will see issues other members have come across and how to fix such issues... Look closely into the problems that WILL happen with these vehicles and ask yourself if you think your mechanical skills can handle the work load... You will also see thousands of pictures of other members rides, which will give you inspiration... I love my M1028 and have tons of fun both driving it and fixing stuff on it myself (with the help from many members on here of course)... I drive mine as much as I can, but have had to park it a few times to troubleshoot and fix issues that have arose... If you have an extra vehicle to drive when your MV breaks down, then by all means buy one and enjoy driving it and fixing it... Im not saying its gonna have issues ALL the time, but be prepared for when something does happen... There are many members on this site that more than willing to assist you in any in any issues you might have with your MV... But they will all say for you to try searching for info yourself first before you ask anyone for help... Good luck with your search...

 

[cptd]

Even if you are not interested in buying mine, you are welcome to come to check it out and I can walk you through my truck and some issues to look for.

I have not posted it for sale in the calssifides as I have to touch up the paint.

PM me if you are interested. I can send pics and/or talk it over with you on the phone.

CPTD

 

[Wiggleattack]

And im back with another couple of questions!
As it looks like im gonna have a problem with the whole money part (i can afford to make payments, and fix it, i just cant get that initial payment for a fixed up one) so it looks like ill be getting one from GovLiq.

1: How much do they normally go on there? I've been keeping an eye on it and i see some that look like they're in "good" condition sell for $500 and then ones that clearly are missing parts sell for $1200. I know each state has different economics, so if anyone is in Texas, that would be a major help.

2: Say im able to get one and have it towed to a shop right outside of base, how much would you think it would cost to get one in road worthy order? Lets assume it'll need a new drive shaft, and other common problems that y'all experienced. (Hopefully not a cracked block or needing a new tranny)

3: One that im particularly interested in, it seems to sound well while running, engine and body looks clean, but there is a red light on in the dash which i cant quite figure out what its for.
http://bcove.me/e9ugicij <<<< Link to video.

 

[robertss]

I got semi-lucky. I bought one from GL for $600. Description said it didn't run and had fluids drained. Pictures showed it on 2 flats and It was missing passenger door. When I picked it did have fluids (clean, topped off and 1/2 tank of diesel) but didn't run.
Hauled it home, put 2 batteries in it and fired up and drove fine, but 40 miles later the axle seals and rear pinion seal gave up, so I had to replace the seals, rear brake shoes and both brake wheel cylinders (they were leaking when I pulled drums).
Had several lights and a headlight bucket to replace. Had to buy a passenger door glass and vent wing (pass. door was in truck, just not attached). Changed fuel filter, oil change, trans fluid and filter. The guts and glass for tailgate were missing so had to round that up. Lots of cleaning interior and pulling dash apart to clean bulb connections. Had to change out the blinker/wiper switch in column. and the dimmer switch. Had to buy 4 tow shackles.
All said I was $1,000 in, excluding purchase price and It still needed new tires (Stiil had tread, but all were dry rotted), windshield, dash, seats recovered and weather stripping.
I ended up selling it to a co-worker for just what I had in it who had more time, desire and resources to fix it up. He actually painted it this weekend and the thing looks brand new, but he had to drop another $2k to get it there. He and his dad have a fairly extensive source of parts and knowledge of CUCVs.

 

[robertss]

1. I bought mine out of the Tarrant truck repair center in Ft worth. Great folks to deal with. But GL is an auction so it just depends on who is bidding and how bad they want something. Also the number of trucks for sale at the same time in same place can help keep prices lower in my experience. seems that you could expect to pay 1500-2500 for a decent truck. Some have gone to $3000+. I had my buddy who recovers military auction stuff a lot to pour over the pictures with me when I was looking and he helped point out things to look for as best he could from pictures. I was 7.5 hours from the truck so inspection wasn't an option.
2. Maybe it will be good to go as is, or could be just $200 for batteries, or $1200 for tires, or $600 for a trans rebuild, or $?? for an injector pump.
I really wouldn't plan to drive it home if you can possibly help it.
3. I Think that is the GEN 2 light, means it is not charging (these trucks have 2 alternators). Starting system is 24 volt. could be as simple as a bad bulb in dash, as the bulb is part of the charging circuit or might need an alt rebuild. The GEN 2 light in mine would go off if I revved the engine. That is a very clean unit, prepare to pay for that one.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

1: How much do they normally go on there? I've been keeping an eye on it and i see some that look like they're in "good" condition sell for $500 and then ones that clearly are missing parts sell for $1200. I know each state has different economics, so if anyone is in Texas, that would be a major help.

Nobody can tell yuou what is "normal". It can run from a few hundred to a few thousand. As in, 4 or 5 thousand. As for condition, it can run from scrap to drivable. And there's only a very loose connection between price and condition.

A2: Say im able to get one and have it towed to a shop right outside of base, how much would you think it would cost to get one in road worthy order?

Again, nobody can tell you. It can run from a few hundred to a few thousand.


And how do you choose an honest, reliable shop that's 250 miles from home? And you want to tell them, "Fix whatever is wrong and send me a bill, then I'll come pick it up!" That's a recipe for financial disaster.

Buy one and rent a trailer to get it home. Rent a truck to tow it with if you have to.


OR don't do this.

A3: One that im particularly interested in, it seems to sound well while running, engine and body looks clean, but there is a red light on in the dash which i cant quite figure out what its for.

Looks pretty nice. As for the red light. Could be a simple bad alternator, or any of a number of bad things. Looks like the batteries aren't stock. If it were me, I wouldn't worry about it, but then, I can fix things electrical.


But I wouldn't be trying to do it right then and there!

 

[Warthog]

If you think you will get it for less than $1000, I believe you will be disappointed. I have seen M1009s sell for $3500-$4500 from GL. Lately parts trucks have been selling for ~$1000. But you never know. It all depends on who is bidding that day.

What ever truck you get, plan on spending $1000-$1500 to get it street ready. Trust me I know, I have recovered and serviced a dozen or so CUCVs.

Only way to get one with makeing payments if to borrow the money from your parents. No bank will touch a 25+ yearold vehicle. (unless you know the banker and have AAA+++ credit). Or if you find one at a Buy Here, Pay Here car lot.

but there is a red light on in the dash which i cant quite figure out what its for.
<<<< Link to video.

Why not download the TM 9-2320-289-10 Operators Manual and see what that red light is. I know what it is but you need to look it up for yourself.

 

[Racallahan1]

You have to have a fair amount of money, and patience, if you're looking to buy off GL. You might be better off looking at classifieds, Craigs List, or eBay for one. Some guys buy one from GL, fix them up a bit, and are forced by their better halfs to sell them. I ended up getting my '87 civilian Blazer that way. The guy traded another vehicle for the Blazer, had a Banks Turbo kit installed, blew the transmission and was told by his wife to sell it rather than spend more money on it. I got it for less than the price of the turbo kit. I'm having a new Monster Transmission installed in it, which almost doubles my investment in the vehicle, but I still see it as a bargain. Plan to spend several thousand dollars if you want to get it to like new condition. As has been said previously, they are 25+ year old vehicles.

Whatever you decide to do, I would recommend you not drive long distances until you've checked or changed every fluid, filter, hose, or belt at a minimum. Also, you might want to memorize the sticky on the Doghead Relay. I'm planning to do that on my civvy Blazer, and I don't even know if they have the same problem as the CUCV's do. It's like insurance. Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.