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Where to purchase CUCV alternators?

Mr. Chevy

New member
24
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0
Location
Kingston, IL
Where can I purchase the correct 24V alternators? Reman or new. One has failed and I am looking to replace both alternators and both batteries.

OD Iron doesn't even show them anymore, and they do not have a phone number either.

Thanks for the help!

Nick
 

319

Lieutenant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,349
49
48
Location
Michigan
The alts are 12V, and send OD Iron an e-mail and ask. Other SS members may have good take-outs. You could also have yours rebuilt. Be sure to advise the rebuilder that they need to have isolated grounds.
 

ilovemyblazer

New member
57
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0
Location
Manitowoc, Wisconsin
I figured I would post here instead of starting a new thread.

I would like to buy a new/rebuilt Gen 1 for my 1008. I already rebuilt it using CUCV Electrics complete kit and I had it tested, still no good. I checked out the CUCV Wiki and it says you can buy an off the shelf alternator for the drivers side. It listed Autozone part number DL7157 and it says its a 78 amp unit. The AutoZone website now says its a 100 amp one.

Will this work for a direct replacement? Is there a better one?
Duralast/Alternator (DL7157) | AutoZone.com
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,775
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Location
OKC, OK
It is not a direct replacement as it isn't an "isolated ground" unit.

BUT is will work perfectly on the drivers side only.
 

eme411

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
275
3
18
Location
pefferlaw ontario
alternator

the CUCV uses a delco 27si 100 amp 12 volt unit , there are a number of variations to the 27si , also beware of rebuilders using cheap chicom parts , try to keep your truck OE with north american made parts , life will be better that way,
Frank:deadhorse:
 
Have the originals rebuilt and just use one of the original alts on the passenger side and get the autozone alt and use it on the drivers side.Been running that combo for almost 2 years and no issues knock on wood.Good luck,Mr Chevy nice looking rig.:]

Btw Warthog how much for shipping if i ship you my alts and let the shop you use rebuild them for me.Thats cheap,down here it cost me $120 each to get them rebuilt.:beer:
 

TedO

Member
123
7
18
Location
San Diego, CA
I finally broke down and bought a Wilson starter, as the rotor and status looked questionable on the one I had that burned out. Also, the resister crumbled when I touched it. I see the rebuild kits dont include the resistor. Nevertheless, because of the status and rotor condition, I opted to exchange my alternator for a Wilson which NAPA got for me overnight from LA. (on New Years day neverthess, amazing). Cost me $220.

The first problem I had (after spending 2 days of my vacation messing with the old one, and learning about isolated ground alternators) was that they dont come with a pulley and fan. You have to remove the ones from your old alternator. I found the bolt simply wouldnt budge. I had my son stand on it (200 + lbs) while I worked with a breaker bar and a pipe attatched to the hex wrench. Nothing happening except busted knuckles. I heated it with a torch (not to glowing hot, just before that point), let it cool, sprayed a bunch of penetrating oil on it, then rushed to OReilly before they closed on New years day to get a bigger 15/16 wrench and a 5/16 hex key socket. Delco Remy says to use a through-socket ratchet (15/15) with a hex key socket-ratchet to hold the shaft. NEVER stick a screwdriver into the fan, as I was tempted when I first started. When I got back with my new wrenches, it finally worked. I suspect the penetrating oil had time to do its business, which helped a lot. I couldnt find a 15/16 through- socket, so I got the biggest close-ended 15/16 wrench I could find, and a 5/16 hex-socket. The wrench cannot be flat, as the bolt is recessed.

Now I get this thing mounted- always takes at least 45 min to get that bottom bolt in. The metal bolt cover has fallen down into the engine somewhere, producing an annoying tinny-vibration sound which I cannot get rid of. Now I think I am done, BUT NO, I cant get off that easily. The plastic plug on the exciter connection doesnt fit. I mess with it for about another hour, before realizing the case simply is not cut correctly to fit the plug. Now I have to remove the starter, open it (which is good because I can verify it is isolated ground), take the starter off the case, then file the opening with a tiny file, while test fitting with the plastic plug (which I cut off the truck and brought with me). About 10 minutes of filing the opening (you can see what is going on much better looking out through the open case), then clean up all the filings, and now it fits. Now another 45 min messing with that bottom bolt, attach all the wires, and now I see the correct charge. Only 3 days of my christmas break, a few busted knuckes, and aching knees from kneeling on the front of the truck (37" tires + 4 inch lift).

Next time it wont take so long. I love working on these things!
 
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