Who has an MEP-016E?

[Isaac-1]

ETN550: I would love to see the 701 battery tray mod, just bought a new 24V battery for mine a couple of months ago.

Also on the two MEP-016D's I recently bought, the one that was done by a contractor has a Walbro FR series fuel pump on it, the on that was done as field job has the standard Facet GoldFlow. Have you ran across the Walbro's on any of yours?

Ike

 

[rivercreek]

ETN550 & Derf - many thanks for the quick and useful replies. I'll swap the pumps in the AM and see what happens. I'm quite a bit more clear on the differences between the B and E now. As is usual for me, I was likely thinking too far into it. I'll let you know tomorrow how it works out.

 

[rivercreek]

I've had to delay working on the genny so far today. Hopefully will be able to get to it later this PM. Power still out. I'm beginning to lose my sense of humor after 7 days...

 

[ETN550]

ETN550: I would love to see the 701 battery tray mod, just bought a new 24V battery for mine a couple of months ago.

Also on the two MEP-016D's I recently bought, the one that was done by a contractor has a Walbro FR series fuel pump on it, the on that was done as field job has the standard Facet GoldFlow. Have you ran across the Walbro's on any of yours?

Ike

Ike,

I have not seen a walbro on anything. walbro is a large name and does supply some oem to car companies. The Yanmar only needs a good gravity feed so any pump that can get the fuel there is good enough. Is the Walbro 24 volts?

Following are some pics of the battery tray installed on a 701A and the mods to the cover. The noise is not noticably changed, I think in part because the battery and fuel tank are behind the panel that gets modified. It would certainly be possible to cut down the screen and insulation to more accurately only remove what is in front of the battery.


This is the new tray for the 016B same as 701A just a different color



After removing the existing tray and the round post battery terminal ends The tray is bloted in using the existing rear holes and some tube spacers to offset it.



Two holes are drilled through the front aluminum frame using the tray as a guide



Batteries slide in from the front and are held in place with a top clamp. The existing wires are used and of the 11 I have done I have not yet had a wire that was too short. Sometimes I have to bend the terminal end 90 deg to get it to line up better with the post on the battery. Some of the first units I ever bought came with the green knob disconnects. I have been using them ever since. Note that by having the disconnect in the jumper cable it is possible to open the disconnect, jump the batteries in PARALLEL with a set of big Radio shack Alligator leads and then charge both batteries at once with a 12volt charger or maintainer. I like that feature. Remove the Alligator clips, close the green knob and instantly back to 24vdc!


the battery is a standard lawn and garden one. I use the lowest cost ones and they do okay. I have seen amp ratings up to 400+ in this same size case.





Drill out the small rivets and the screen and insulation comes out easily. The cover is about 2 inches deep and the new tray needs about 1-1/2 inches into the insulation.



I have to notch the cover to clear the bolts on the tray and to accomodate the extra thickness of the tray up against the lower frame. I could make a design where it all goes inside and I have done so with other versions but they are too complicated to make. I like this design best.



Top view with cover on. Easy to reach the disconnect knob. The knob can also be reached from the side cover.



All buttoned up.

 

[Isaac-1]

Looks interesting, certainly something to consider the next time I need a new battery on my 701a, if you do produce this commercially, you might also consider making it so it can be adapted to the MEP-016D which has no on board batteries, but does have a starter designed to be jump started from the slave connection. (you might also need to include a charging regulator since the MEP-016D does not have one).

To answer your question about the Walbro FR series fuel pumps, they are a top of the line electric diesel fuel pump family that makes the Facet Gold Flows look cheap by comparison (just weight alone gives you fair idea of the quality as it is about twice as much as the Facet pumps and they are similar (maybe a little larger) in overall size, they are the current preferred fuel pump used by Thremo King and others where money is no object.

Ike

 

[rivercreek]

Update on DOA 701A / 016E: It's ALIVE ! (Note: Unit running precisely 2 hours AFTER the power came on). Oh well, at least it's running. Confirmed bad fuel pump with a couple jumper wires. Swapped in aux fuel pump, bled it out and she fired right up. Ran it for about 10 min or so just to check (no load). A couple things, however. 24V battery is dead (mostly dead, anyway), so I used cables to start. After checking my fuel lines for leaks, I disconnected the cables and it slowly (over 20-30 seconds) began to lose RPM's. Checking with the meter, voltage was slowly dropping from 28 +/- to just over 26. Seemed to stabilize right around 26, but I lost a good bit of RPM. After hooking the cables back up, the throttle seemed to slowly climb, not back to where I had it set, but I didn't run it too long either. Seems that the throttle solenoid may be losing its holding power with 26V ? I'd understand if it went below 24... Weird! Also, I have to agree with ETF550 after having all the covers off this unit - heat isn't chanelled out very efficiently. I also was not impressed at all with the routing and securement of new wiring under the covers. A few wire ties here and there seems a small price to pay for reliability. I don't understand why they did away with the throttle cable either - I'm glad to have it on the 016B. I believe I'll stick with the 016B and send this E down the road, even if it does have only 3 hours on it. I really appreciate both of you for your insight, good advice and quick replies!! Let's hope we don't really need them again for awhile.

 

[ETN550]

Looks interesting, certainly something to consider the next time I need a new battery on my 701a, if you do produce this commercially, you might also consider making it so it can be adapted to the MEP-016D which has no on board batteries, but does have a starter designed to be jump started from the slave connection. (you might also need to include a charging regulator since the MEP-016D does not have one).

To answer your question about the Walbro FR series fuel pumps, they are a top of the line electric diesel fuel pump family that makes the Facet Gold Flows look cheap by comparison (just weight alone gives you fair idea of the quality as it is about twice as much as the Facet pumps and they are similar (maybe a little larger) in overall size, they are the current preferred fuel pump used by Thremo King and others where money is no object.

Ike

Ike,

Can you post up a pic of the walbro? thanks, Doug

 

[Isaac-1]

Will do I plan to go out an work on the MEP toys in a few hours, until then

Walbro FR-Series Industrial and Marine Fuel Pumps from Fuel-Pumps.net
http://www.walbro.com/brochurfiles/FRPumpBrochure.pdf
Ike

 

[derf]

Very nice. The battery tray mod deserves a thread of its own.

 

[Isaac-1]

Here is a photo of the Walbro pump on my MEP-016d (I am not sure which exact FR series model it is, my guess is the model number is printed on the side that faces the engine). It may be a Walbro 5000 or 6000 series which proceeded the FR series.

Ike

p.s. yep, it is a 6000 series http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/6000_pump.html

 

[derf]

Facet makes a nice little cube pump, too, if you're looking for an alternative.

FACET SOLID STATE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS from Aircraft Spruce

 

[ETN550]

Ike, That Walbro looks good.

Derf, The 802A uses two of the cube type. One for primary and one for the Aux fuel function.

 

[Isaac-1]

I am happy with the Walbro, we have them on all our truck ThermoKing units at work, and the last time anyone remembers one of the pumps failing was about a decade ago, and then it was on a 12 year old truck, I don't know how many hours were on that refrigeration unit, but the truck had well over 400,000 miles. I was just wondering if anyone else had seen these installed in place of the Gold Flo canister pumps on the Yanmar retrofits.

Ike

 

[flatdog555]

Could someone post a picture of the MEP-016E solenoid linkage. Mine came incomplete during an upgrade from Ft. Hood, and I'm trying to see what the design intent was. Thanks Derf for posting the picture from the upgrade manual, that helps, but I'm looking for more detail so that I can make one at home. I had an idea for a linkage, but it didn't work out since it wouldn't shut the generator off when turned to the off position. I can use the compression dump valve, but that's more difficult to do, especially with a sound cover on.
Thanks,
Flatdog555

 

[ETN550]

Could someone post a picture of the MEP-016E solenoid linkage. Mine came incomplete during an upgrade from Ft. Hood, and I'm trying to see what the design intent was. Thanks Derf for posting the picture from the upgrade manual, that helps, but I'm looking for more detail so that I can make one at home. I had an idea for a linkage, but it didn't work out since it wouldn't shut the generator off when turned to the off position. I can use the compression dump valve, but that's more difficult to do, especially with a sound cover on.
Thanks,
Flatdog555

I'll post a pic this weekend if you do not get one before then. From your text I'm thinking you have a 701A with the ASK panels that was partially converted to an 016E. Also, if you need any other help in completing it I might have some info. There is a tech manual for the conversion that shows all the parts and how to make the conversion. It is MI-96-13200/00 dated 1 April 99. If you PM me I can e-mail it to you. I think Derf sent it to me a while back.

I strongly recommend you do not run the unit with the sound panels on it using the Yanmar engine. For whatever reason I believe the military completely missed the boat by trying to use the Yanmar in the housing designed for the Onan. The original Onan blows all of its cooling air by ducts out of the housing through the top hole and then draws a nominal amount of additional air through the housing using the two small fans. The Yanmar has no such duct work to force the cooling air our of the housing so it ends up recirculating a lot of the air inside and making the engine hotter and hotter until possible failure. However, leaving the top panel and maybe an end panel on might be okay.

It is interesting to note that many, maybe a majority, of the 016E Yanmar units have original 701A frames as the frames have the threaded inserts indicating that ASK panels were once on the frames. Additionaly, even the standard 016B side cover is usually removed from the 016E Yanmar units on the cooling air discharge side of the engine to ensure the discharge of the cooling air and non recirculation.

To run a Yanmar in the ASK I would advise fabricating a good cooling air duct system to exhaust the cooling air up out through the large top hole as originally done with the Onan. In the meantime the unit will run just fine with the panels removed like every other 016E out there.

If anyone has actually run a Yanmar in a 701A ASK housing and has had it fully loaded for at least a few hours I would be interested to know. There seems to be a few 701A Yanmar combinations that come up in the auctions but they never seem to be fully complete, rather always in partial conversion. Which is a good thing because that means the engine is brand new!

Sorry for long post!

 

[ETN550]

Could someone post a picture of the MEP-016E solenoid linkage. Mine came incomplete during an upgrade from Ft. Hood, and I'm trying to see what the design intent was. Thanks Derf for posting the picture from the upgrade manual, that helps, but I'm looking for more detail so that I can make one at home. I had an idea for a linkage, but it didn't work out since it wouldn't shut the generator off when turned to the off position. I can use the compression dump valve, but that's more difficult to do, especially with a sound cover on.
Thanks,
Flatdog555

Here is a pic of an 016E Linkage. The block screwed on the end of the solenoid is a thick piece of plastic. Note the clip holding the stop lever down so the main lever goes back and forth with the solenoid but does not latch.

More info: The solenoid extension has a barrel nut on it and by lengthening or shortening the shaft the frequency can be adjusted. The hand throttle adjustment is deleted when converting an 016B to E.

The solenoid is a three wire unit. Black is ground, then either the yellow or red is for engaging and the remaining wire is for holding. There is a timer device (Woodward Coil Commander) under the fuel filter that gives full power to the solenoid to engage it then times off and uses less power to hold the solenoid in run position. The engaging current is high and will overheat the solenoid if left on too long. IF you are missing the Woodward coil Commander I can show you how to move some wires so that the cranking signal engages the solenoid instead of the Coil commander. I had one with a bad Coil Commander and made it work.

Did you get a copy of the B to E conversion document?

 

[ETN550]

Flatdog,

Read your old post and saw you are missing the solenoid. There was one on E-Bay misadvertised as a an 016B solenoid. Search to see if it is still there. It has the black plastic slug on the end so it is unmistakable.

 

[derf]

I may still have the solenoid. I don't plan to use it. I like to keep it simple. Batteries and such on small gens that I can pull start are just expensive and tedious to maintain to me.

 

[Grove]

I have one that has been converted to the Yanmar L100 engine and it has both a main pump and an auxiliary pump. I cannot get it started because the main pump isn't working. It started once when I first got it and died. It hasn't started since.

The pump doesn't have voltage going to it nor does it work when I use a jumper wire. What could be the issue why it isn't getting voltage? Was the pump bad and blew something?

Grove

 

[derf]

If you get 24V at the pump and the pump isn't moving fuel then the pump is bad. You may be able to switch the main and aux pumps and get it to work. If no 24V at the pump then maybe something else is wrong.

If it ran for a while and then stopped you may have to bleed the fuel system once you get the electric pump working.
IIRC there is a nice little Facet pump that costs less and works well. ebay and Aircraft Spruce are sometimes good places to find 24V DC fuel pumps.