Will this filter WMO?

[rwright07]

the way the system works is a hose attached to tube that reaches to nearly the bottom threads into the larger bung and the air pressure unit threads into the small bung, it forces air into the drum, pushing the liquid up the tube and out of the drum, setting it in reverse will suck fluid into the barrel through the hose and tube.

Wow, the army and my roommate and i came up with the EXACT same system independently, makes me proud...

The barrel flexes and makes popping and creaking sounds, you can also see the top of the drum bulge, but we have never heard of them blowing apart.

this has been exactly my experience with utilizing low air pressure to filter WMO and move the filtered oils into our gas tanks. If you use less than ~7psi then the top and bottom bulges will return to normal, but if you go higher -we use 15-20 to force it through the filter setup- the bulges stay that way.

we tested an empty drum up to 45 PSI to ensure the safety of the process, it sure increased the volume of the drum, but it still held/holds air just fine.

as long as you use your brain and an inline pressure regulator (NOT a tire valve or something similar) it has proven to be a safe, easly, reliable, and CHEAP way to get setup for filtering WMO.

FWIW i suppose

 

[agood1]

I got a good pump from Northern Tool.....but I got an even better one from Tractor Supply.

Check with either of them...can prob do it on line.

Which pump did you get from TSC?

 

[wreckerman893]

Errrrrr......don't have a number...it is the basic 12 volt fuel pump...the intake fits on top of the drum and has a pickup tube that will reach almost to the bottom of a 55 gallon drum.
The other end has a fuel nozzle like at the gas station. There is a switch to shut it off and on with......I think I paid around 200 bucks for it but I have CRS.

 

[nofearnohope]

I understand what yall are saying. I did find a good filter set-up at McMaster Carr, thanks for that. Can anyone recommend a good pump that isn't too expensive?

What filter set-up did you go with from McMaster Carr?

 

[Snarky]

If you want something you can use to move oil with air pressure get a pneumatic drain tank. It's a waste oil tank that has an air input and regulator at the top. You connect it to the air supply and it pushes the oil out of the hose connected at the bottom at what ever psi you put into it. It's also has a pressure release valve so it wont blow up. I think they're good for 150 psi and the pressure release valve blows at 175 and the tank is probably good for several hundred psi but the hoses attached to it aren't.

I'da rather use a thick metal tank than a thin metal drum any day. They are easy to refill, easy to move, and less lethal.

 

[kc5mzd]

I like the old electric water heater idea. The hot water heaters I have seen leak was at the top around the pipefittings. They also have a valve at the bottom for drainage you could use to go to the filter. If you needed to heat the old oil up to make it drain faster you could plug it in. They usually heat to around 140deg on medium setting or less on low. I bet the heat alone would make enough pressure and thin the oil enough to make it run out easy...

 

[agood1]

What about this setup?
Maybe 50 micron then 25 then 5?
3) 10" WVO SVO BIODIESEL/ WATER FILTER HOUSING SEDIMENT - eBay (item 150387443783 end time Nov-15-09 22:13:30 PST)

 

[mdmorgan]

will full synthetic motor oil burn?

 

[PsycoBob]

Yes, synthetic oil will burn just fine. "Flame-resistant" aircraft hydraulic oil and DOT5 Brake fluid, won't. Synthetic has more consistent contents, but it'll burn just fine.

That eBay filter should do wmo fine, so long as they aren't guessing it'll survive filtering biodiesel. I like the multi-stage idea if it has individual filters, rather than the quad-stage element that mentioned. I'd like to know how much each stage is stopping. Most multi-stage filters for fuel expect you to change certain filters more often than others, depending on the quality of the "input." It's usually more of a problem with veggie oil, from what I've read- breaded chicken VS battered chicken, and frequency of changing the oil.

 

[Billy Bobbed]

What will happen if you dont filter UMO that fine, lets say a paint filter 220 micron mixed with diesel and gasoline.I know Im new so be easy me.Thanks

 

[PsycoBob]

I've heard that the truck's filters are rated to 10 micron. That's not absolute- but they'll keep almost everything over that out of the engine. If you don't pre-filter it down at least as well as the truck's filters, you're relying on them to do all the work. With clean diesel, that's no big deal. With WMO/WVO/ETC it depends on how clean your supply was. Some people report no problems, with somewhat nastier looking filters at change time. Others have major clogging, and lots of filter changes. Sludge can be as much of a problem as solid particulate.

How picky you get depends on how much fuel you plan on using between filter changes, and how reliable you want the truck to be. Are you willing to risk changing your filters on the side of the road? If so, filter it your way, change the truck's filters, and keep a spare set plus tools on hand. If your WMO supply is nice and clean, you'll be happy with your easy method. If not, you change the filters when they clog, and ask yourself if you want to do the work of setting up a better system.

Remember- 2 secondary filters, 1 primary, and all the gaskets. I say change them before you try the easy way, because some filters come with the right gaskets, others need a seperate one. Better to have that happen in the driveway, when you can still go get the right ones for your spares.