Winch clutch sliding key thanks!

Torisco

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My thanks to KATAHDIN, M16TY, GRINGELTAUBE, DOGHEAD AND XTSIX for helping with suggestions to removre sliding clutch key for winch.

I chewed off 25% of one key and mangled the end of another (se e pictures)

The problem I have now is that after replacing all seals, and all bushings-bearings, drag brake pad, and gaskets I am leaking gear oil at both ends of the drum from what appeares to be the new drum seals or the seals on the end case and worm gear case. Also a drip or two from the input shaft seal.

I measured the shaft diameters to make sure I was within spec. I also measured the worm gear shaft for the seal. I got the kit from a reputable MV seller that many SS'ers have used . I used GL5 gear oil. The seals were pliable and went on easily. Not sure what I did wrong?
 

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doghead

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You could drain the oil and try cornhead grease. It is some slick stuff and does not drip out like oil. Buy it at your local Joun Deere dealer. Or google it.
 

Torisco

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I am on it!

You could drain the oil and try cornhead grease. It is some slick stuff and does not drip out like oil. Buy it at your local Joun Deere dealer. Or google it.
After all the work rebuilding the winch (I took a lot of pics.) and coming up leaking I felt like the perverbial fool! Oh well...

I LOVE your idea and am on the internet to find that stuff and try it out. Thanks again and again Doghead.

Gordon
 

gringeltaube

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I agree that using a non-dripping lube here, IS a very practical solution.

BUT.... wherever oil would come out... water; dirt; humid air or other contaminants will eventually find the way IN! Especially since most of the seals I have seen used in this case are single-lip, only!

Normally, the seals on both ends of the drum have the lip riding very close to the edge of their respective surfaces. Also, the drum has to have a bit of axial play. So there is not much margin for error: if a seal was pressed in just a little too far; or deformed during installation; or for some reason the end housings are a couple mm too far apart, this may be sufficient to cause important leakage.

A few things I have learned so far:

1) even with some experience - and using good sealants instead of paper gaskets - not every rebuilt winch has been a no-leaker success story....!
2) once the problem(s) was(were) found it would stay completely dry on the outside, even if overfilled, with oil. (Have some winches sitting that way, on the shelf, for over a year now...)
3) always try new drum seals on (clean & oiled) prior to install: should rather fit a bit too tight!
4) never be too confident: always check for leaks after assembly and BEFORE final paint/ installation in vehicle! Use plenty of oil (both sides) and leave it resting in different positions, eventually overnight.
5) Murphy's law for winches: ... if it can leak, it will leak....!
Quite obvious.... :)


G.
 

Torisco

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Where can I get double lip seals for the winch?

I agree that using a non-dripping lube here, IS a very practical solution.

BUT.... wherever oil would come out... water; dirt; humid air or other contaminants will eventually find the way IN! Especially since most of the seals I have seen used in this case are single-lip, only!

Normally, the seals on both ends of the drum have the lip riding very close to the edge of their respective surfaces. Also, the drum has to have a bit of axial play. So there is not much margin for error: if a seal was pressed in just a little too far; or deformed during installation; or for some reason the end housings are a couple mm too far apart, this may be sufficient to cause important leakage.

A few things I have learned so far:

1) even with some experience - and using good sealants instead of paper gaskets - not every rebuilt winch has been a no-leaker success story....!
2) once the problem(s) was(were) found it would stay completely dry on the outside, even if overfilled, with oil. (Have some winches sitting that way, on the shelf, for over a year now...)
3) always try new drum seals on (clean & oiled) prior to install: should rather fit a bit too tight!
4) never be too confident: always check for leaks after assembly and BEFORE final paint/ installation in vehicle! Use plenty of oil (both sides) and leave it resting in different positions, eventually overnight.
5) Murphy's law for winches: ... if it can leak, it will leak....!
Quite obvious.... :)


G.
The seals I used were single lip.

If I have to replace the new single lip seals...where do I get double lip seals?

Also,
I replaced the seals to the same depth or level that the old ones were at and made sure I did not ding the seals. I also measured the shaft diameters with a micrometer to make sure they were in spec. It seems that after market and some NOS seals just seem to leak alot? Could just be me! Same thing happened with my M43B1 transfer case rebuild using NOS and after market seals.

Thanks again gringletaube for your wise advice and assistance. It is GREATLY appreciated
 
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