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Window misalignment problem

Titanium Soldier

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Mojave California
aua I have a frustrating issue! I have a '70 kaiser/jeep M35a2 Wo/W Hardtop. Both my drivers and passengers windows will not align worth a S^&t, I know its a deuce and the alignment will suck regardless, but it seems like a 1 inch gap on the back side and a slight overlap on the front are extreme. i have taken apart the access panel and could not find anything wrong inside. Have any of you guys dealt with this issue before? And how did you resolve it? ill try and get pics up when i get out of work. Ide really appreciate any kind of help i can get! Thanks in advance!
-Tom
 

GHILL55

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Location
Kalispell, Mt
I just tore apart both of my windows on my M35A3. With the access panel removed, wind the window all the way down and check that both control bars are properly attached. It sounds like you may have a bent or disconnected bar. My drivers' side window likes to pop off of the front pivoting bar. Had to take the whole assembly apart to fix - education day, what fun!
 

treeguy

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Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
I have this same problem and its one thing that drives me nuts. When you remove the access panel and wind the windows all the way down you will see two pieces of angle iron with two screws each. They are about two inches long and are on the bottom glass frame. The slotted holes are there to adjust the stopping heights of the glass. If you fiddle with adjusting them to different heights you may get the glass tighter to your top and change the upright angles, but don't expect much better than where you are already at (I've tried).

If the front stopper is all the way up and the rear one is all the way down, the top rear corner will cant upward when shut and vice versa. There may be a happy medium, good luck.

I've also replaced the felt lined window channels in an effort to get the top edges of the windows to seat more inboard but it doesn't do much. I am (in some future) toying around with the idea of creating permanent channels around the glass and modifying the truck opening to accept a better seal. This (like modern vehicles) is to stiffen the window from flapping in and out. I don't ever plan on removing the top and flapping the windshield so this won't be an issue for me.

If you currently have hair, don't expect to have much left when you call it quits and button up the panel!

P.S. Removing and reinstalling the clips to the control arms is a real pain, but MUST be done right or the arms can pop off. Use a flat screwdriver to help pry them back. First feel around so you can figure out which way they need to slide.
 

LowTech

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
888
17
18
Location
Arizona
Mine's a softtop, but one thing that I did notice is that if the windshield is too far forward, or too far back, my windows wouldn't square up. I had to loosen the BIG wingnuts on both sides of it and move it back and forth till the windows were squared.
Haven't tried to move the windshield on Elise' 109 hardtop. So . . . don't know if you can.
 

treeguy

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Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
Ahhhhhiiiieeeeeeee, I think that the hard tops lock everything together. You might be opening a can of worms, if your lower windshield seal doesn't leak now, oh - right, you'd want to angle it tward the rear, so it might tighten the seal. When I took off my top and back, I noticed upon reassembly that there really isn't any available play forward and aft with the top at the windshield and where it meats the back. You'd also want the tops bottom edge to line up with the back vertically. This windshield adventure unfortunatly won't help the windows flapping outward. Maybe its designed this way, to act like skegs on a boat to keep the truck tracking straight down the road, (seeing how fast they go, they might need the help)!!

I just looked at the angled flaps on the top (above glass) and the vertical angle flap on the back. They meet at a 45 degree angle. Once this joint is tight you can't move the windshield back any more. The top will slide back on the back part until these two pieces touch and thats it.
 
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91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
I just had one apart again, make sure the button end on the left brace going up in the door is in the track, it would be the right side brace on the bottom. The window crank drives the other arm. If that arm is out of the track in the door, the front edge of the window goes up ahead of the back edge. It also lets the back side slide down in the door. I had to remove it this time to fix the door latch. You are working blind up there and my forearm does not fit in between the panels very well. Glen
 

Titanium Soldier

New member
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Location
Mojave California
Made some progress! As Treeguy said about that angle iron, he was right only limited adjustments... But the fella that put together my passenger door flipped the little angle iron limiters upside down- thats what was letting it over extend, flipped em over and it was good. Now the drivers side window, the adjusters were correct, but what you can do is either take out the rear adjuster (assuming your gap is in the back like mine) or just flip it over so the rear WILL over extend, I dont want to use the word ghetto on a deuce so i wouldnt call it that, but when u roll up the window now, right when it gets to the top push it forward and you can get that litttttttle extra 1/8th turn which lined my window right back up to where it should be... hope this helps you other guys out, i know its not perfect but its a deuce and for a $1700 1970 truck , i can live with that! ...........

.........So long as it dosnt ever start to whistle when driving at speed!!!! and not the cool my-turbo-diesel-sounds-more-badass-than-your-turbo-diesel-whistle!!!!
 

oh hills

New member
4
0
1
Location
stewart,oh
After jacking up the doors and fooling with windows,I found the cab was tilted to the rear on mine.
Put the front bumper against a tree, come along and strap around top of cab. Problem solved
 
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