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Work on the baby HEMTT grinds to a start.

mckeeranger

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Eastern Kentucky
This thing is just full of cool fabrication.

How close is it to "drivable"? (tired of that question yet?)

And why did you bother keeping the serial number exposed? Do you really think you can convince anyone it's "just" an M35, even with the VIN? ;)
 

Jones

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Thanks... I try to make everything mechanic-friendly (since I'm the mechanic) and to keep it looking "factory".

As far as driveable-- heck, it's driveable now. It's just with work still to do on the brake system, it isn't stoppable.

Once the law sees that insurance and registration are current; and that I've taken pains to make everything accessable and legible, they just seem to check the last four and then it's on to MV question and answer time.
 

cranetruck

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Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Nice job, I remember you scratching your head over this little problem during my visit back in '06 (can't believe it's over 3 years ago).
You may want to consider cotter pins for more of those nuts...or are those self locking?
 

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Jones

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Yeah Bjorn, after all the gnashing of teeth and hair pulling, it's funny how simple the solution turned out to be.

Every fastener on any frame mount is grade 8, fine thread, with type "C" locking nut-- no ny-locks.
Any grade 5's in pictures are just there to temporarily locate a given bracket, etc. ;
or in a low load application like an antenna mount or hood hinges.
 

Stalwart

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Nice going Leonard, that looks VERY professional!

Regarding the socket ball ends, that seems to have been answered. I was my understanding too that you tightened until the spring binds slightly and then back off a bit to allow slight movement.

Couldn't get right back to you in email, will later today. We moved an M35 yesterday on our little trailer, TOTALLY easy and uneventful recovery. Dave was prepared and ready and so were Jane and I. As a bonus we got 2 free ferry rides out of the deal with nice weather to boot. I couldn't believe how effortless the whole move was, truck got to it's new home safely and nobody even had to break a sweat. Seeing a smiling and happy new owner was great to see, ah to be 24 again!
 

Jones

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Thanks Stuart.

I ended up setting the adjusting plugs flush with the drag link ends then coming out a half turn. Not coil-bound but tight enough to move dry with a little effort. Once I get the dust covers made and in place, I'll grease everything, see what they feel like and make any final adjustments from there.

Got the last of my hydraulic lines made. Next is routing and securing them.
Hydraulic lines from PTO driven pump to and from crane by way of high pressure filter assy.
Route and re-connect outrigger lines to the controller.
Power steering pump lines to steering box and steering box to pass. side assist ram.

Glad to hear the recovery went well. Those uneventful ones are the ones that show us to be the true professionals we think we are.
 

Stalwart

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We weren't professional, just careful and lucky! 4 chains plenty tight, checked often and speeds kept below 65 with slower speeds left for turns.
 

Jones

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Sacramento, California
Here's why no project is "done in a week-end".
Getting the steering assembled on the baby HEMTT and wanted to make sure the drag link ends kept the grease in and the dirt out. A simple desire but one close to my heart.
Apparantly the trucking industry stopped making parts for the "Garrison" type drag link right after the Korean war.
I ended up making my own dust covers after getting tired of trying to describe the drag link ends to countermen young enough to be my grandson.

Since dueces and M800 series 5 tons use the same set-up this'll give you guys in the same boat some ideas.
 

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Stalwart

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BEAUTIFUL Leonard, even the felt to help keep the grit out! Once that felt is packed with grease there will be no grit or water getting in there to gall that ball and socket. :D
 

Jones

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Thanks Stuart.
I got the idea from the 5 tonner; (TM9-2320-260-24P-1, fig. 211).
It uses a similar cover (shield) over the sealing material; but on that set-up, the bend-over tabs soon break off.
I figured a cover made of sheet metal with zip-ties would be re-usuable and still easy to maintain.
Unlike the round hole that's big enough to fit over the ball; the "U"-shaped cut-out on my cover gives more complete support of the felt seal and makes it easy to install.
 

Flat Black

New member
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Location
Georgia state
Appears that the original build thread is dead and gone, unless I am missing something.

Could you please post exterior pics of the truck in its current state?

Thanks
 
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