Work on the War Pig continues

[russ81]

Have you ever got around to dial indicating your rims?

No, I'm sorry I haven't. I know I promised you guys I would, so I will.

 

[russ81]

awesome, Russ'!! gonna need lots of info on your motor and transmission mounts. heck, want to make a second set?? i'd be willing to pay you for your time...

I would love to, but I'm really under the gun right now with work. What kind of time frame are you looking at? If you don't need them right away I could make the time after I'm done with a few issues at work. I would need a few measurements from you, so we get a perfect fit.

 

[mudguppy]

i'm not in a rush - my project hasn't started yet. i'd much rather wait and let you invent the wheel first. your pain equals my spoils..... but i'll give you as much encouragement as you need!!

take lots of pics - your truck is looking great!!!

 

[mudguppy]

update??

opcorn:

 

[russ81]

Sorry guy's. I've been having some medical issues, and had to have a minor surgery last week. I should be healed enough by next weekend to be back on the project. I will update as soon as I make some forward progress.

 

[alexace]

Good luck, hope you recover well.

 

[Broke Down]

nice project. your basic idea is mine as well and is what brought me here. keep the pics comming. great looking rig

 

[russ81]

Finally got a little time to work on the Pig this weekend. Installed the grill with new mounting brackets mounted to the front bumper. Installed tie down/towing lugs to both axles and the rear bumper. Next I will install the rear pintle hitch to the rear bumper.

 

[13F10]

LOL...the engineering class gets an A+. Yes, those pipes are 6.625 O.D.

Haven't yet decided on fuel tank location. I was thinking about making a saddle tank going betwee the frame rails and around the drive line for the main tank, and then side mounts behind the "nerf" bars. Could hold a lot of go juice by having three tanks. Couple of transfer pumps, and across the country with out stoping I could go.

Vertically, and framed by a roll bar in the bed, between bed, and cab. That way, Easy to get to, easy to repair, doesn't get dragged through mud, over rocks, submerged tree stumps, or beaten to death by a driveshaft should a U-Joint FAIL.

 

[behrjack]

Russ I have the same MRW wheels only with the 46 in michelin tires and they run nice and true I would bet yours are to Great looking truck you got there.

 

[jcappeljr]

Nice lookin job on your truck,alot of good fabricating.

 

[chaplain]

I am assuming fuel tank went in bed how about photo of where you mounted batteries please

 

[russ81]

I am assuming fuel tank went in bed how about photo of where you mounted batteries please

Haven't got that far along with either item. When I do though I will post pictures.

 

[OKCMoparGuy]

Hey Russ, a couple of things on the Cummins.

My grandpa (retired) owned his own diesel shop and I picked up a few tidbits working summers to pay for school.

1) When you go to the dealer make sure they know it's out of an 03'.....they'll have to use the DRBIII to configure the engine/trans combination. The 03 Rams did have a seperate trans controller for the auto's.

2) I can't stress this enough, make sure you have a good fuel filtering system for any common rail engine......25 micron (for the big stuff) and 2 or 5 micron with dedicated water seperator......try a semi salvage yard for the filter head.....fleetguard filters are very good and reasonably priced.....ditch the stock filter setup. Heard of way too many melted pistons and dropped valve seats from overfueling injectors.....trash in the fuel was root cause. Another thing, don't run anything but clean #2 diesel.....03' common rails pulse the injectors 3 maybe 4 times per compression stroke. This is why they're so quiet and make so much more power than the old 24valve. The timing and metering of fuel is critical to both power levels and engine longevity. If you add other fuels, such as waste oil, the viscosity will go up and the injectors can't meter precisely enough resulting in an overfuel.

3) Once it's running I'd run a compression test on all 6cyls.....Cummins minimum spec is 350psi but a healty non-oil consuming engine has over 375. A lot of these had dusted engines from lack of air filter maintenance. If your compression is low, the blowby will cause carbon to build up around the upper compression ring and it'll crack causing a scored cylinder....re-ring before this and you'll be fine. My grandpa learned this the hard way on a used truck he bought.

4) Related to #3........Check your air filter regularly and keep an eye on the filter minder. When you do your filter maintenance I'd check your intake ducting in-between filter and turbo for any signs of dusting.....the old white glove test.

I can't wait to see everything completed and really enjoy reading this thread.

 

[russ81]

Thanks for the write up. There's a lot of good information in there I can use!!!!

 

[jdknech]

any updates? lol

 

[russ81]

any updates? lol

I took a temporary assignment in Missouri last October..........and I'm still here.

I've been looking for a shop to rent while I'm out here, but no one will rent me anything for less than a 12 month lease.

Sorry....Pig's on hold until I finish up this project. Gotta feed the kids every so often.

 

[jdknech]

i hear ya! so did you ever get the cummins mounted to the deuce trans? what did you have to do to make it adapt?

 

[russ81]

Nope. There are slight differences on the back side of the 2002, 2003, and 2004 cummins, and I couldn't get an adapter to fit. (and I went through several) Every one of them said they would fit the 2003. So I just picked up a freshly rebuilt NV4500. It's setting in the barn with the rest of my parts waiting on installation.

 

[Flat Black]

bump for updates....