Wrecker wishlist of mods

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zebedee

conceptualizer at large
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or like this?
What is the origin of this setup - is it standard kit for an 816/936? Looks like it is partly USMC towbar suspended from 816 wiffletree.

USMC MTVR tow bar
NSN 2350-01-496-8356 and [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]figure 6-1A [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]
[/FONT]adapter NSN 2540-01-500-5325
Sorry - tried to upload pic from MRAP Battlefield Recovery Tecniques Manual..

But it is much the prefered way to suspend tow - vs the towbar ends being attatched to the dead vehicle axle.
 
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Ferroequinologist

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For my wrecker, my wish list is sheetmetal!

But I can already see that easy bed tool access, a better way into the control cab, and lots of spotlights will be wanted on my truck.

I was thinking about putting a rear slavecable recepticle as well.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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more slings, two different trucks
In pic #2, someone needs to teach the user the CORRECT way to use clamps on a cable to maks a eye, the way it is now, a IMMIDEATE "life threatening" VIOLATION will be given by OSHA
 

5tondeuce

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In pic #2, someone needs to teach the user the CORRECT way to use clamps on a cable to maks a eye, the way it is now, a IMMIDEATE "life threatening" VIOLATION will be given by OSHA
Hi Ron, I bought the truck that way and have not used it yet. Thanks for the tip. could you let me know what is wrong and the right way to fix it so I can correct the problem.
Thanks
Chris
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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THE top and bottom clamp are correct, the middle one is backwards, remember "never saddle a dead horse" the U of the clamp crushes the cable, weakening it, the way it is now, the live end (load cable) is being weakened, also the way a clamp is designed, the load line can move a bit, not a lot, no matter how tight, with the clamp turned around there is NO movement, just a crushed, weakened cable, there a fer other reasons that cable clamps are used the way thay are but the above are the easiest to explain,

ALSO the clamps need to be TOURQUED, NOT as tight as can be got, over tighten again will weaken and ruin cable, and weaken the clamp, in fact can lead to clamp failure

One more thing, cut the old eye just above the first clamp, when you make a new eye, use a THIMBLE (cable saver) for the hook, your cable will last a least 5 times as long as compared to just running the cable though the hook eye, this will spread the loading on the cable instead of it being all at one point
 
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zebedee

conceptualizer at large
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Is there more pics of this,I would like to get as many as I can, I want to do one for the 819, I have a civi mod pics of a set like this,
Ron - Not sure if it was a pic of the towbar that you wanted - I'll try to extract more pics of the USMC Towbar which seems to be the main part you need, but do not know the source of the cross bar with the clutch hooks at the ends... Though it is very similar to that used on a Holmes 750 setup.
 

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What is the origin of this setup - is it standard kit for an 816/936? Looks like it is partly USMC towbar suspended from 816 wiffletree.

USMC MTVR tow bar
NSN 2350-01-496-8356 and [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]figure 6-1A [/FONT][/FONT]
adapter NSN 2540-01-500-5325
Sorry - tried to upload pic from MRAP Battlefield Recovery Tecniques Manual..

But it is much the prefered way to suspend tow - vs the towbar ends being attatched to the dead vehicle axle.

Holmes is the mfg. not as good as a under lift but several thousand $ less.
 

zebedee

conceptualizer at large
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Central NY
Rear lift tow mod.

Ron - I was trying to 'search' for modifying the crane from 270 deg to 360 deg rotation... didn't find anything!!!!!:evil: Tips?
DaveP, post #36 - do you have pics of the front side of the spreader - I need details of the swivel**


...but came across this old thread, which I can now add to.

Been fab'ing my version so have found a load of pics. Still looking for a scrap 850 Holmes unit to save time though.
Have found new US made 5/8 weld on grab hooks for the ends of the spreader bar tube.
Tube on the 850 is 5" ID x 40" long. Don't have details of pivot** (A frame connection) but swivel is with a simple sleeve that has two grease nipples seen in pic.
Suspension by whiffle tree - as pic of DaveP's 819 is a good option (cable is a bad idea) but I need to go with a pair of 5/8 chains, "Hammerloks" and a lift 'pear' ring route for authentisity of my project, similarly....
Ears I had to make on the rear body cross member are 3" by 1 1/2" with a 1 1/2" dia pins on a 4" 1/4 wall box.

Pic one is collection of civi units (750's mixed in).
middle pic is from an 816 on e-gay a month or two ago.
Soni's M123 (?) is also shown from his pics of the FEMTT build. (edit - added wrong pic3 - oops)
(NB Holmes 750 is a smaller unit.)
 

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