Yanked the flooring out...

[br44]

...and found rust.

I have a leak in the passenger side window(that part that squeegee's the window) and water got inside the cab under the flooring. While I was Replacing my seat belts i discovered the wetness. After a quick inspection I discovered the leak and the (very) wet insulation under the plastic flooring. Considering the condition of the flooring I decided to Pull out the flooring and insulation. After unbolting the (rusty) seat bolts and removing the seats I Hacked away at the flooring. It took me all of 30 minutes to remove it all and I found EXTENSIVE rust damage. It looked like this had been happening for years. There were small rusts pockets all over the passenger side and even a few on the driver side. What surprised me the most was that the most damage was on that hump that runs down the middle of the cab. I can only guess that the water got soaked up by the insulation and when the rain ceased it sat there and caused the small rust pockets. As it warmed up the water evaporated and condensed on the hump, causing the most damage. The rust spot on the hump was as big as both of my hands.

Here is my idea to solve this problem and fix the rust.

1. Fix the dad gum seal on the window
2. Get a drill grinder or wire brush and remove all of the rust.
3. salvage some of my junk ammo cans for scrap metal.
4. cut the scrap metal to size with 1/2'' overlap.
5. seal the whole thing with roofing tar(leftover from a roofing project)
6. drill holes every 3'' max along overlapping scrap metal
7. rivet plate into place
8. paint with rust olem primer and paint(who cares what color,Its gonna get covered anyways)


Hope this helps someone, i looked all over the site and found nothing on this subject.

Moral of this story
INSPECT EVERYTHING
Remember, Not only was it made by the lowest bidder, the CUCV's were never treated right/maintained properly.

 

[Cucvnut]

Or cut the floor out get a pannel from lmc and have some one weld it in.

 

[toughjeep]

I agree with Cucvnut. If there is no access to a welder you could always pop rivet the new part in. Welding is much better though.

 

[89m1007]

Here are some pics of my wife's heavyly modified blazer.

 

[89m1007]

http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo227/89m1007/k5 blazer build/2011-03-12_09-55-29_522.jpg

 

[nk14zp]

Like said above I would weld in some patch panels.

 

[DokWatson]

All you would do is make it worse. When you decided to fix it the right way, you would be cutting that sandwhich of crap right back out. If its not all the way through the floor, grind it off, treat it with rust converter, paint it with a good sealer.

 

[USAWEAPON777]

Yeah that mat was a bad idea for them to install. When I removed mine it pretty rusted, luckily the floor was still solid. I ripped out the carpeting, and sanded the living crap out of it, followed by some naval jelly, rinsed and repeated. Then I just painted the floor in truck bed liner. Looks fine now. If the rust is so bad, I agree with others, its patch panel time. Good luck!

 

[WARWAG]

I would do as DocWatson said. Clean it up and seal it. If it goes through then cut out the affected area and weld in a patch. Good luck!

 

[br44]

Here are some pics of my wife's heavyly modified blazer.

wow... thats a bummer.
Thankfully mine is not so bad, but the rust does go all the way through. I dont have a welder handy and this project is on my B list of stuff to do. I figure that the alt and fan belts are more important than rust holes i can bandage with a pop rivet gun.

 

[89m1007]

Yea my poor 1009 it has been butchered badly
The only way I can tell its a 1009 is by the Vin the one thing I like is the sm465

 

[Milbikes]

Has anyone used the 3M panel bonding adhesive that is used to bond body panels onto cars?

 

[89m1007]

It is ok. I used liquid nails construction adhesive last time on my m882

 

[topgun217]

I used the 3M last summer and so far so good. It's what they use at the factory. The paint is sticking really well, no leaks. I did notice that it is extremly sticky stuff and had a bear smoothing it out so my m1009 could maintain that factory look.

I had to cut a few patches here and there, and used the seam sealer around the edges, then painted using "Chasis Saver" since it was cheaper than POR15

 

[JUNKYARDJOHN]

I used the 3M last summer and so far so good. It's what they use at the factory. The paint is sticking really well, no leaks. I did notice that it is extremly sticky stuff and had a bear smoothing it out so my m1009 could maintain that factory look.

I had to cut a few patches here and there, and used the seam sealer around the edges, then painted using "Chasis Saver" since it was cheaper than POR15

I worked as an inspector at Flint assy. back in the 80s when they made these there...THEY DID NOT USE 3M PANEL GLUE INSTEAD OF WELDING. I'm not saying it isn't good stuff... just incorrect information. Rust is like cancer. If you don't cut it ALL out or kill it by treating it... it will come back... worse than ever. John

 

[topgun217]

Let me correct myself guys. I did weld in the new metal, I DID NOT, use seal sealer to glue the sections in. What I should have said is that after the welding was done, I went over the welded seams with the seam sealer to give it a more factory look........Sorry for the confusion on my part. I do remember the store clerk where I purchased the stuff from telling me that one could use seam sealer instead of welding........I gave him a funny look, and left. Again sorry for the confusion.. Definetly cut the bad stuff out and replace with good strong metal.