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Bought a CUCV M1010 !

cucvrus

Well-known member
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When you get the opportunity crawl under the M1010 and disconnect the transfer case linkage from the shifter. See if the shifter lever going to the transfer case can be moved all the way back. It will help to block the wheels and shift the truck transmission to neutral with the engine off. Because that shifter inside the cab has a gate pattern that the shifter rod must travel in. It is worth a try. I have several transfer cases for parts also. The internal parts are about worthless to me at this point. But some of the parts inside are costly. If you pay shipping I will send you any of the internal parts you may need. I am sure we could trade something. The only thing I ever use are the case parts. They get cracked and broken during snow plowing and off road use.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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I agree, definitely rule out the linkage being the cause. I've had lots of Jeeps with shift issues because people make poor adjustments to those setups. The chain case with a dogleg pattern for some reason tends to not fully engage 4wd and pop out of goes past 4HI and begins to head into Neutral territory when you pull the lever back to the first notch.

Check for saggy engine/trans/body mounts or worn pieces on the linkage.

I'd say that an NP208 is a good starting point to learn if you are up to the challenge, they are dirt simple with only a few moving parts.
 

jpg

Member
610
13
18
Location
boston
This is mine with 255/85R/16 BFGs on 7" wide rims. Works fine with no lift kit.
BFG web site says they don't make tires in size 255/85R16. Would you be willing to double-check the size? I'm curious what will work without a lift.
 

Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
115
1
0
Location
San Francisco, CA
BFG web site says they don't make tires in size 255/85R16. Would you be willing to double-check the size? I'm curious what will work without a lift.
They now carry the KM2 mud terrain in this size.


https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...2.3&ei=Hq8TVbvSI9e7ogSr2oGIDg&ved=0CG0QpiswAg

I'm thinking I want the Toyo M55 255/85/r16E despite the higher cost. I expect to see mostly fire roads, simple trails, and old highways with this rig as opposed to serious off roading. I loved the old BFG MTRs i had on my landcruiser in 33x10.50r16D, but I want better ice and snow performance than I experienced with those tires. I don't want to do any real hard wheeling until after the Honeymoon cross country trip we bought the truck for.

http://simpletire.com/toyo-m-55-lt2...m_term=36133&gclid=COaSop7jmsQCFYeTfgodVyoAtQ
 
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Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
115
1
0
Location
San Francisco, CA
When you get the opportunity crawl under the M1010 and disconnect the transfer case linkage from the shifter. See if the shifter lever going to the transfer case can be moved all the way back. It will help to block the wheels and shift the truck transmission to neutral with the engine off. Because that shifter inside the cab has a gate pattern that the shifter rod must travel in. It is worth a try. I have several transfer cases for parts also. The internal parts are about worthless to me at this point. But some of the parts inside are costly. If you pay shipping I will send you any of the internal parts you may need. I am sure we could trade something. The only thing I ever use are the case parts. They get cracked and broken during snow plowing and off road use.

I agree, definitely rule out the linkage being the cause. I've had lots of Jeeps with shift issues because people make poor adjustments to those setups. The chain case with a dogleg pattern for some reason tends to not fully engage 4wd and pop out of goes past 4HI and begins to head into Neutral territory when you pull the lever back to the first notch.

Check for saggy engine/trans/body mounts or worn pieces on the linkage.

I'd say that an NP208 is a good starting point to learn if you are up to the challenge, they are dirt simple with only a few moving parts.

So from what I understand the bent transfer case shifter I have should be able to be adjusted as per section 5-6 of the folowing TM?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/...320-289-20.pdf
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Location
Portsmouth, NH
Page 5-11 shows you the rod (29) and the two adjusting nuts (27/25). I would first take the rod out of the tcase shift lever (9) and engage the tcase manually into 4HI. Do the same test to see if it jumps out of gear. If it does, you have internal issues (most likely a bent shift fork, worn plastic insulator pads, or beveled teeth on the collar). Those were in order of most likely to least likely. If it doesn't jump out of gear its probably an adjustment issue. Adjust the linkage so that the lever and rod match up in 2HI. Then shift both to 4LO positions and make sure they match up again. Connect the two and you are done.
 

Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
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Location
San Francisco, CA
I'm thinking of seeing if the auto dismantler's in my area have any of the same np208 transfer cases that I could get some cheap mileage out of. I live in an industrial neighborhood a block from one.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
GA Mountains
If you do get one out of a yard, make sure it's off of a 400 turbo or SM465 4 spd. The ones on 700R4 trans have a 27 spline input. Yours has 32.
 
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Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
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Location
San Francisco, CA
Finally got the license plates and title. Six trips to the DMV and not only my bill of sale, but the previous bill of sale from when the previous owner purchased it from Joshephine County, was all it took. Since in Oregon you can do multiple title transfers on one title without going to the DMV, I had to have both bills of sale. The previous owner was nice enough to mail it to me, but it was lost in the mail. He gave us permission to 'reprint' the bill of sale so we could appease the state of California and its draconian laws
 
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fitz

Member
268
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Location
Mass
When do you start your cross country trip?
If you make it to Massachusetts and get in a jam, let me know.
 

Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
115
1
0
Location
San Francisco, CA
Having a local shop replace the shocks, flush coolant system, service the transmission, repair the linkage on t-case (turns out I was right and its not broken, just needs linkage work) repair brakes, replace wheel bearing seals and repack, add coolant temp\oil pressure\voltage gauges, and some other stuff should be ready for road trips this week. Gonna celebrate with an immediate trip to BLM land nearby and shoot the guns. Can't wait to get my M1A battle rifle in the old M1010!
 

Drunkle Scuzzy

New member
115
1
0
Location
San Francisco, CA
I just ordered a Pulse Tech SP-2 12volt 2watt SolarPulse\SolarCharger Battery Maintainer. My truck was previously converted to a 12volt system with 240amp alternator and dual batteries. I called Pulse Tech and they said it would reverse sulfation like the units I heard about on here, and also trickle charge (2watts) the batteries when not in use. The rep said that it wouldn't charge them from dead, but would be enough to keep them topped off. I found it for $60 on eBay new in box with free shipping. Link below. Originally sells for $89.95. This is the lowest wattage, least expensive of the line. They have others for 24volt systems as well. Thanks to those of you who turned me on to this. I drive my truck infrequently, and often short trips around the city. The last time I fired it up to take it to the mechanic after sitting for a spell it turned over quite sluggishly. Pulse tech claims that it can make batteries last up to five times as long. Curious to see how it affects battery life. Hopefully it saves me money in the long run.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/PULSETECH-SO...item54212ef129




http://www.pulsetech.net/SP2-SolarPu...Watt-7297.aspx
 
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