M1009 Help

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Yeah, all he wants the 6.2 for is to get things like the crankshaft and heads for his 83 Silverado but I don't know if he would want to deal with even more stuff. I've been trying to drag the stupid thing (jokingly of course) out of its niche by my grandpa's shop for almost an hour but it won't budge. That might be because I'm stuck with a JD 318 and a work van with no hitch points... Never the less, I will see how much I can get to with the passenger side still stuck by a wall.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Would it make a difference that half of the fuses are installed upside down? I wouldn't think it would but I don't have a degree in electrical engineering.

 

[Warthog]

No on the upside down fuses making a difference.

Without the 12v wire to supply power, nothing will work.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

I decided to check to see if that diamond junction block was getting any power before I jumped it and when I grounded my volt meter to various points on the engine, it said that the block was getting 4.4v. Guess it is time to break out the jump trick. Also, where will I find the starter relay? I haven't seen it so far.

 

[Warthog]

Look at the pictures in this sticky

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?60960-doghead-starter-relay-modifcation

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Thanks! Just happened to find it a moment ago.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

On disconnecting the starter relay, is it okay that I only unplugged the wires from the biggest of the 3 pieces of the starter relay? That would be the one with 2 purple wires, a red wire, and a black wire. I just don't want to disconnect the rest if I don't have to because they are all individual plugs and I don't want to get those messed up.

 

[Warthog]

Yes

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Thank you!

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Alright, so I have power when I do the jump but when I hit step 7 and forward, do I leave that jump in place or should I remove it? My guess is remove it or disconnect the inputs to the terminal (which would be which wires?) and leave the jump in place. I know that earlier, I only had 4.4v to that terminal (on the normal battery setup).

 

[Warthog]

The big relay is the starter relay. The other two are for the voltmeter and GEN2 circuits.

 

[Warthog]

Leave the jumper wire is place. It is needed to make everything else work.

you are replacing the missing wire.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Thank you once again! That explains why nothing else would work without it. Question is, why did I still have 4.4v to the terminal (being without the jumper)? I will see if the truck will crank over next chance I get. On a side note, not like this has happened at all but don't get after my grandpa for buying this as a parts truck because we only figured out just this last week that it was ex-military (like I said, I have not seen anything against him but I am just clarifying).

 

[Warthog]

You may getting the 4v back feeding thru the diode in the 24v side of the system. Just guessing on that part.

You grandpa was just doing what he thought was good. No hard feelings...

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

It's great to hear that it isn't something broken that is most likely causing that! Wow... I have gotten a lot of help from you Warthog haven't I... Thanks so much, hopefully more to say soon.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

Given that I can get the truck to crank next time I'm there (which I have no idea when it will be since I am still a full time student). What would I need to do to hook up diesel to the engine. I know in general how to bleed the fuel system and such but should I use the original fuel tank which is in unknown condition or how would I rig up a fuel can to use instead? Hopefully we (thank all of you guys!) can get this truck running by the end of the week!

 

[stampy]

+1 for the fuel can as it is a known quantity and will eliminate a lot of troubleshooting. As long as it is clean you could bypass the filter or you could just do the spin on filter mod and not worry about it.

 

[Howlin Mad Murdock]

I'm sorry that I am asking you guys so much but where would the best spot to be to splice in a line from a fuel can (with a picture if possible)? Also, would I just be able to run a line from a can and the engine suck from it? Or can I do that but have the can above the engine for a gravity feed? Or does the line need to be pressurized by means of a pump or such? I've done a lot of mechanical work on cars but this is my first time trying to bring an engine back from the dead and my first time working on a diesel at that. Thanks guys!

 

[stampy]

Simple. Find where the line goes into the square filter housing from the tank and connect a new piece of hose to the filter housing. You will need a hose clamp and the right sized hose to pull from your clean container. Or you can run directly from the container into the IP but then you risk trash going in the IP. Better to be safe and run it through a filter. You may have to crack the lines on the injectors to bleed off any air you got in the system. You will need good batteries to spin it over and get all the air out. I would put the fuel container on the roof and let it gravity feed into the filter housing.

 

[stampy]

You may want to go ahead and replace the line to the IP as it may be dry rotted. If it is it will never prime. The IP (injection pump) is under the air intake and is a PITA to get to. Just follow the rubber line from the filter assembly to the engine.