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Why waste time and money with multiple voltage dropping devices and then having to wire them into the system when all you have to do is but 10-30V LED lamps and change out the bulbs? That also allows you to pull your trailer with either a civy cat or a military truck. Just search for either 10-30V or 12-24V BA15S LEDs.
The BA15 represents the size of the lamp socket (15mm) and the S indicates a single contact pin. If you need double pin lamps you search for BA15D and if you want them for your turn signal and dash lamps search BA9S.
I just succeeded in this conversion using various threads here at SS. My truck has the 24/14 volt charge system. Don't think that is a requirement for this, but what I did was pull off the rear battery for 12 volt and ran that through the 14+ circuit on the alternator. From there I ran to a fuse and sent a 12+ wire out to the back of the rig. I pulled the NATO 12 pin plug schematics and located the running, stop/turn circuits. I ordered some 24 volt DC relays. I ran the 12 volt to the #30 terminal on the relays, then used the 24 volt signal to trigger the coil to close the relay and send 12+ out to a standard 7 terminal (only used three of them) civi plug. The nice part is I found a standard house construction plastic grey weather sealed box to mount to the rear X member rib under the bed to route the wires in and out and let the relays have a nice hidden place to hang out.Good afternoon all,
I had a quick question that tags in on this conversation. I would like to do the same conversation on my trailer. My trailer has the sealed beam LED lights and if I were going to convert it to a multi-voltage configuration I would have to replace the whole lighting assembly. I am not opposed to this I just cannot find them with multiple online searches.... any ideas.
Charles.
I started to go this route. However, I have "Blazer" brand lamps on my boat trailer (already LED). I called and was advised by their tech line on the NOT to run on 24 volt and they are integrated circuits so I can't just swap out the bulbs - put me back to figuring out how to deal with the truck signal, or buy a whole different lamp set and change my three trailers to the other LED.Why waste time and money with multiple voltage dropping devices and then having to wire them into the system when all you have to do is buy some 10-30V LED lamps and change out the bulbs? That also allows you to pull your trailer with either a civy car or a military truck. Just search for either 10-30V or 12-24V BA15S LEDs.
The BA15 represents the size of the lamp socket (15mm) and the S indicates a single contact pin. If you need double pin lamps you search for BA15D and if you want them for your turn signal and dash lamps search BA9S.
Yep, I actually held that controller in my hand a week ago as I went to visit them for some other parts. The thing I didn't care for other than the price is the fact you had to still plug it in each time and find somewhere to strap it to the trailer or whatever. It is a well built but bulky piece. I came very close to bringing it home with me.http://midwestmilitaryequipment.com...uck-to-civlian-trailer-light-converter-cable/
Following up on TOBASH's connector find......and I, too, have no affiliation with any of these vendors. New LED lights and fabricating your own connector cords appear to me to be the cheapest solution to your situation.
Pictures or wiring diagram would be appreciated. I have a few 24v relays and was thinking of trying this too.Funny, I just made one of these over the weekend. I have both a military and civilian trailer that I want to use with my m998 so I made a converter from 24v to 12v. Basically I bought a cheap 24v to 12v converter and pull power off the E pin in the receptacle on the truck. B and J pins are for right/left tail lights and D is ground. The 24v from pin E goes into the converter and the 12v out goes to the brown wire of a civilian trailer receptacle and to two 24v switched relays. Pins B and J power the relays which switch the 12v to the yellow or green wires for the left/right tail lights. The only caviate with this setup is that the running lights have to be on for the trailer lights to work. I tried using buck converters in line with each wire to convert from 24v to 12v but it didn't work that well. The hardest part I found was buying the military trailer plug for a decent price, seems like they are a rare commodity and are pretty expensive. You don't want the semi-trailer connector cable because its different. I can post pictures if anyone is interested.
Interested and ready to use your plans to build one!Funny, I just made one of these over the weekend. I have both a military and civilian trailer that I want to use with my m998 so I made a converter from 24v to 12v. Basically I bought a cheap 24v to 12v converter and pull power off the E pin in the receptacle on the truck. B and J pins are for right/left tail lights and D is ground. The 24v from pin E goes into the converter and the 12v out goes to the brown wire of a civilian trailer receptacle and to two 24v switched relays. Pins B and J power the relays which switch the 12v to the yellow or green wires for the left/right tail lights. The only caviate with this setup is that the running lights have to be on for the trailer lights to work. I tried using buck converters in line with each wire to convert from 24v to 12v but it didn't work that well. The hardest part I found was buying the military trailer plug for a decent price, seems like they are a rare commodity and are pretty expensive. You don't want the semi-trailer connector cable because its different. I can post pictures if anyone is interested.
Pictures or wiring diagram would be appreciated. I have a few 24v relays and was thinking of trying this too.
Interested and ready to use your plans to build one!
Please send pics of wire plans and of the unit!!!
Thanks in Advance!
T
Who did you source for 24-12 stepdown inverter, and for relays and for both plugs?View attachment 749295
Basically military connector on one side, civilian on the other. Cable used is 1/2" 7 conductor trailer cable. I'd show the inside of the aluminum box but its just a jumble of wires that I don't think would really help anyone so I made a picture.
View attachment 749296
In the name of transparency I have not tried it yet but I am hoping to over the weekend when I have the time to fool with this some more. I left the wires so long because I'm not really sure how I'm going to mount it on the truck yet and wanted to leave my options open. Its a lot easier to cut the wires shorter than it is to extend them haha
Everything except the metal enclosure is from ebay haha. The case I got from mouser or digikey I think.Who did you source for 24-12 stepdown inverter, and for relays and for both plugs?
AND THANKS!
I just received a warning about posting a link to a "Buy It Now" (not an auction) on the FleaBay site, so I might avoid posting links to Amazon and such. A link to exact same item from what I believe to be the same vendor on the vendor website was apparently OK to post.I also pull a trailer with my Humvee, I did install the led bulbs, but they don't seem as bright, and I want to try the LED trailer lights, but they are not available for the 14 V
So I was going to try one of these, I would need three of them, one for each brake/signal and one for the parking and marker lights
https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Conv..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=54YCCT3TJDTFE1HK6F6P
These are the lights I want to install
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...MIzaGmrp743gIVm7jACh1fAAE6EAYYBSABEgLV6vD_BwE