• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

12 volt to trailer wiring

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
Is there a gadget that gets 12 volt out to a trailer light pigtail?

Also, I have the dual voltage generator. I have no idea if this will help with that or not.
 

riderdan

Member
315
20
18
Location
Central Kansas
Have you checked that your military plug works? A few days back I came across something that claimed to do this... I think on fleabay. You plugged into your military plug and then it had a four-pin connector on the other end to run civilian trailer lights. As I recall, it claimed to convert 24v to 12, but I don't remember a lot of details. Unfortunately, I'm not planning to run a trailer so I didn't save a link.
 

papakb

Well-known member
2,288
1,185
113
Location
San Jose, Ca
Why waste time and money with multiple voltage dropping devices and then having to wire them into the system when all you have to do is buy some 10-30V LED lamps and change out the bulbs? That also allows you to pull your trailer with either a civy car or a military truck. Just search for either 10-30V or 12-24V BA15S LEDs.

The BA15 represents the size of the lamp socket (15mm) and the S indicates a single contact pin. If you need double pin lamps you search for BA15D and if you want them for your turn signal and dash lamps search BA9S.
 
Last edited:

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
Why waste time and money with multiple voltage dropping devices and then having to wire them into the system when all you have to do is but 10-30V LED lamps and change out the bulbs? That also allows you to pull your trailer with either a civy cat or a military truck. Just search for either 10-30V or 12-24V BA15S LEDs.

The BA15 represents the size of the lamp socket (15mm) and the S indicates a single contact pin. If you need double pin lamps you search for BA15D and if you want them for your turn signal and dash lamps search BA9S.

That’s interesting. The trailer I’ll be towing I just put new LED bulbs in this summer. I wonder if they are 10-30. I need to find that out.
 

sf1954

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
38
20
8
Location
Richmond, Va
I just bought a 24 volt to 12 volt converter cable for non military trailers from XM381.com. It has both a 4/5 pin flat cable and 7 pin RV socket. They make several combinations and grades. I bought it because one of my trailers has electric brakes.
 

87k5

New member
26
0
1
Location
Columbia SC
Good afternoon all,
I had a quick question that tags in on this conversation. I would like to do the same conversation on my trailer. My trailer has the sealed beam LED lights and if I were going to convert it to a multi-voltage configuration I would have to replace the whole lighting assembly. I am not opposed to this I just cannot find them with multiple online searches.... any ideas.

Charles.
 

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
Good afternoon all,
I had a quick question that tags in on this conversation. I would like to do the same conversation on my trailer. My trailer has the sealed beam LED lights and if I were going to convert it to a multi-voltage configuration I would have to replace the whole lighting assembly. I am not opposed to this I just cannot find them with multiple online searches.... any ideas.

Charles.
I just succeeded in this conversion using various threads here at SS. My truck has the 24/14 volt charge system. Don't think that is a requirement for this, but what I did was pull off the rear battery for 12 volt and ran that through the 14+ circuit on the alternator. From there I ran to a fuse and sent a 12+ wire out to the back of the rig. I pulled the NATO 12 pin plug schematics and located the running, stop/turn circuits. I ordered some 24 volt DC relays. I ran the 12 volt to the #30 terminal on the relays, then used the 24 volt signal to trigger the coil to close the relay and send 12+ out to a standard 7 terminal (only used three of them) civi plug. The nice part is I found a standard house construction plastic grey weather sealed box to mount to the rear X member rib under the bed to route the wires in and out and let the relays have a nice hidden place to hang out.

I also pulled my tag light out of here for a standard 12 volt tag.

I have no intention of using the NATO plug - but if I did, I would have just T'ed into the wires and left it all there. Instead, I tucked the NATO plug up under the rail and dropped the new one down and actually mounted it right next to the 2" receiver.

Anyway, about $40 and a few hours...and she is good to go.
 

Zed254

Well-known member
866
464
63
Location
S. Hampton Roads, VA
I think the objective is to pull a civilian trailer with a military vehicle. If so, the LED lights will take care of voltage and you only need the correct connection cable. For the military trailers I've recovered with my civilian truck I used a connector cable I bought from Erik's: https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/mitradcamtro.html . 24 volt lights were dim if I did not change them out to 12 volt. The last one had the LEDs installed and worked great as configured.

Eriks Mil truck to Civ Trailer connector is: https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/mitradcactro.html
 

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
Why waste time and money with multiple voltage dropping devices and then having to wire them into the system when all you have to do is buy some 10-30V LED lamps and change out the bulbs? That also allows you to pull your trailer with either a civy car or a military truck. Just search for either 10-30V or 12-24V BA15S LEDs.

The BA15 represents the size of the lamp socket (15mm) and the S indicates a single contact pin. If you need double pin lamps you search for BA15D and if you want them for your turn signal and dash lamps search BA9S.
I started to go this route. However, I have "Blazer" brand lamps on my boat trailer (already LED). I called and was advised by their tech line on the NOT to run on 24 volt and they are integrated circuits so I can't just swap out the bulbs - put me back to figuring out how to deal with the truck signal, or buy a whole different lamp set and change my three trailers to the other LED.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,172
2,799
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Fleabay has a vendor selling an adapter for the low low bargain price of 500 clams.

I HAVE NO AFFILIATION WITH THIS VENDOR.

link removed
 
Last edited by a moderator:

McSpeed

Well-known member
333
293
63
Location
Palmer, AK
http://midwestmilitaryequipment.com...uck-to-civlian-trailer-light-converter-cable/

Following up on TOBASH's connector find......and I, too, have no affiliation with any of these vendors. New LED lights and fabricating your own connector cords appear to me to be the cheapest solution to your situation.
Yep, I actually held that controller in my hand a week ago as I went to visit them for some other parts. The thing I didn't care for other than the price is the fact you had to still plug it in each time and find somewhere to strap it to the trailer or whatever. It is a well built but bulky piece. I came very close to bringing it home with me.

If I was hauling both 24 and 12 volt trailers...it would be the ticket to change on the fly as long as you remember to bring it with.
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
17
18
Location
Essex, Maryland
Funny, I just made one of these over the weekend. I have both a military and civilian trailer that I want to use with my m998 so I made a converter from 24v to 12v. Basically I bought a cheap 24v to 12v converter and pull power off the E pin in the receptacle on the truck. B and J pins are for right/left tail lights and D is ground. The 24v from pin E goes into the converter and the 12v out goes to the brown wire of a civilian trailer receptacle and to two 24v switched relays. Pins B and J power the relays which switch the 12v to the yellow or green wires for the left/right tail lights. The only caviate with this setup is that the running lights have to be on for the trailer lights to work. I tried using buck converters in line with each wire to convert from 24v to 12v but it didn't work that well. The hardest part I found was buying the military trailer plug for a decent price, seems like they are a rare commodity and are pretty expensive. You don't want the semi-trailer connector cable because its different. I can post pictures if anyone is interested.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zea

cwajciec

Member
68
5
8
Location
Richmond VA
Funny, I just made one of these over the weekend. I have both a military and civilian trailer that I want to use with my m998 so I made a converter from 24v to 12v. Basically I bought a cheap 24v to 12v converter and pull power off the E pin in the receptacle on the truck. B and J pins are for right/left tail lights and D is ground. The 24v from pin E goes into the converter and the 12v out goes to the brown wire of a civilian trailer receptacle and to two 24v switched relays. Pins B and J power the relays which switch the 12v to the yellow or green wires for the left/right tail lights. The only caviate with this setup is that the running lights have to be on for the trailer lights to work. I tried using buck converters in line with each wire to convert from 24v to 12v but it didn't work that well. The hardest part I found was buying the military trailer plug for a decent price, seems like they are a rare commodity and are pretty expensive. You don't want the semi-trailer connector cable because its different. I can post pictures if anyone is interested.
Pictures or wiring diagram would be appreciated. I have a few 24v relays and was thinking of trying this too.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,172
2,799
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Funny, I just made one of these over the weekend. I have both a military and civilian trailer that I want to use with my m998 so I made a converter from 24v to 12v. Basically I bought a cheap 24v to 12v converter and pull power off the E pin in the receptacle on the truck. B and J pins are for right/left tail lights and D is ground. The 24v from pin E goes into the converter and the 12v out goes to the brown wire of a civilian trailer receptacle and to two 24v switched relays. Pins B and J power the relays which switch the 12v to the yellow or green wires for the left/right tail lights. The only caviate with this setup is that the running lights have to be on for the trailer lights to work. I tried using buck converters in line with each wire to convert from 24v to 12v but it didn't work that well. The hardest part I found was buying the military trailer plug for a decent price, seems like they are a rare commodity and are pretty expensive. You don't want the semi-trailer connector cable because its different. I can post pictures if anyone is interested.
Interested and ready to use your plans to build one!

Please send pics of wire plans and of the unit!!!

Thanks in Advance!

T
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
17
18
Location
Essex, Maryland
Pictures or wiring diagram would be appreciated. I have a few 24v relays and was thinking of trying this too.
Interested and ready to use your plans to build one!

Please send pics of wire plans and of the unit!!!

Thanks in Advance!

T
1127182058.jpg

Basically military connector on one side, civilian on the other. Cable used is 1/2" 7 conductor trailer cable. I'd show the inside of the aluminum box but its just a jumble of wires that I don't think would really help anyone so I made a picture.

24vto12vTrailerConverter.jpg

In the name of transparency I have not tried it yet but I am hoping to over the weekend when I have the time to fool with this some more. I left the wires so long because I'm not really sure how I'm going to mount it on the truck yet and wanted to leave my options open. Its a lot easier to cut the wires shorter than it is to extend them haha
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,172
2,799
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
View attachment 749295

Basically military connector on one side, civilian on the other. Cable used is 1/2" 7 conductor trailer cable. I'd show the inside of the aluminum box but its just a jumble of wires that I don't think would really help anyone so I made a picture.

View attachment 749296

In the name of transparency I have not tried it yet but I am hoping to over the weekend when I have the time to fool with this some more. I left the wires so long because I'm not really sure how I'm going to mount it on the truck yet and wanted to leave my options open. Its a lot easier to cut the wires shorter than it is to extend them haha
Who did you source for 24-12 stepdown inverter, and for relays and for both plugs?

AND THANKS!
 
Last edited:

LouWon

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
407
79
28
Location
Michigan
I also pull a trailer with my Humvee, I did install the led bulbs, but they don't seem as bright, and I want to try the LED trailer lights, but they are not available for the 14 V
So I was going to try one of these, I would need three of them, one for each brake/signal and one for the parking and marker lights

https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Conv..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=54YCCT3TJDTFE1HK6F6P


These are the lights I want to install
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...MIzaGmrp743gIVm7jACh1fAAE6EAYYBSABEgLV6vD_BwE
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,172
2,799
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I also pull a trailer with my Humvee, I did install the led bulbs, but they don't seem as bright, and I want to try the LED trailer lights, but they are not available for the 14 V
So I was going to try one of these, I would need three of them, one for each brake/signal and one for the parking and marker lights

https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Conv..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=54YCCT3TJDTFE1HK6F6P


These are the lights I want to install
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...MIzaGmrp743gIVm7jACh1fAAE6EAYYBSABEgLV6vD_BwE
I just received a warning about posting a link to a "Buy It Now" (not an auction) on the FleaBay site, so I might avoid posting links to Amazon and such. A link to exact same item from what I believe to be the same vendor on the vendor website was apparently OK to post.

I don't entirely understand the TOS, but there is a TOS , so let this be a warning regarding posts of links to sales and auctions.

T
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks