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803A Hits a Wall at 9.3kW

handyjay03

Member
33
15
8
Location
Louisiana
Not to be the bearer of bad news, but cyl. looks pretty bad. Being pitted like that I suspect you have either low compression in that cyl or perhaps no fire at all.
I know you're pressed for time, but if it was mine I would just bite the bullet and go completely through the motor. I've actually fixed several LPW4's in worse condition by using a Lisle micrometer head cylinder hone. I was able to hone the cylinders oversized, starting with 80grit and working up to 400 ( took a long time ) and I got oversized pistons from Mayi Diesel pretty cheap. Or take the block to a machine shop and have it bored. Throw new bearings in it to fix your oil pressure issue and you'll have a brand new machine!
After seeing the more detailed pics I took yesterday, I'm leaning heavily towards getting rid of it. I'm guessing parts and machine shop work is gonna be another $1k, not to mention the time I don't have to do it. Would just end up being another obstacle in my yard I'd have to cut around
 

handyjay03

Member
33
15
8
Location
Louisiana
Well, looks like I'll never stop being a glutton for punishment. Moved it into the garage instead of listing it for sale. I've never had trouble taking things apart. It's the putting them back together that's going to be tough.

Would y'all advise doing all of this with it in the frame/case, or do I need to pull the engine? Seems like I can get to everything without removing it
 

Ray70

Well-known member
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It has to come out if you plan on replacing the main bearings. It uses these split ring housings for the mains which require the crank to be pulled out from the rear of the engine to access the main bearings.
I have honed the cylinders out and changed rod bearings with the engine in place, but you have to be super careful to wash the block out good afterwards.
I learned my lesson once, didn't get all the honing junk cleaned out of the far corner of the block and wiped the crank out withing 20 minutes of starting it up!
 

handyjay03

Member
33
15
8
Location
Louisiana
It has to come out if you plan on replacing the main bearings. It uses these split ring housings for the mains which require the crank to be pulled out from the rear of the engine to access the main bearings.
I have honed the cylinders out and changed rod bearings with the engine in place, but you have to be super careful to wash the block out good afterwards.
I learned my lesson once, didn't get all the honing junk cleaned out of the far corner of the block and wiped the crank out withing 20 minutes of starting it up!
I'm just going to bring the block to a machine shop to get bored out. Don't want to take the chance of ruining it for good. Never been into anything bigger than a v-twin lawnmower engine, so this will be a learning experience. Are there any one-stop shops for parts, or am I just going to be looking around in eBay for stuff?
 

Ray70

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,898
7,034
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
I've used a lot of ebay gasket kits and oversized Pistons from Mayi Diesel.
For bearings I found Lister Petter bearings on Ebay.UK You an also try getting them right from Cummins on line, might depend if you end up having to cut the crank or if standard bearings are ok.
 
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