Recent content by jackson76550

I wanted it because it was worth what I paid in just the axles. if I had the choice I would have chose a m1028 for the same money. just stumbled across this one. if I take the box off ill let ya know.

I have wanted a 1038 for a long time, but this one was listed on facebook for a price that was too low to pass up, in non running mystery condition. Story goes it has sat for at least the past 6 years and it will crank with batteries installed but will not run. Gave the guy 1800 bucks, loaded...

I did some destructive testing on a new glow plug. At about 8 seconds on time with a manual controller it will "pop". with my manual controller it takes 3-4 seconds of on time to start the truck.

Did away with my muffler.... truck has a unique sound to it now. https://youtu.be/i1jsfN8OV1Y

for zero dollars I just bypassed mine altogether. I lost the wot fan cutoff....but that didn't matter at all to me. I just used the power at the 4 pin connector to the solenoid, then added a ground to one side of the temp switch. the other side of the temp switch goes to the solenoid ground...

true story. electricity and rings don't mix as well. if you need inspiration google image search degloved finger

excessive rpm, abuse, or just a plain ol defective connecting rod are very likely. I just cant see an injector doing it, I have worked on plenty of diesels with stuck injectors that never came close to locking up....although none were 6.5/6.2. hydrolock would certainly bend a rod. bottom...

no body lift on my turbo converted truck. but takes a bit of creativity to service the upper intake, or whatever you may call it. I found a turbo doghouse on facebook of all places. the guy does not have any more of them but I see them advertised on occasion. the engines are more offset...

while we are being careful, you will hear the pump click regardless of what you do with the cold advance switch located on the rear of the passenger side head. the injection pump solenoid clicks.

Wrap a chain around the runflat, place the tire under the engine hoist and pull it out. Doesn't harm the tire or runflat. You can pull them through the new tire in the same manner, or use a ratchet strap. Takes about 2 minutes to pull one like this

you may not air down your tires, but nails and other objects will without your permission. 16.5 wheels do not have what I call a safety bead, the tire will simply fall off the rim vs having to break the bead on most other rim sizes. in fact if it goes flat overnight it may break its own...

I have a c pillar in the houston area.

in my opinion yes and no. I think it will bolt up fine, but id guess it would accelerate the wear of the upper ball joint. but it may last just as long....

just paid 2250 shipped for a really nice set of 4....hurt my feelings but as I saw the prices trending up I thought id grab some. if someone owned a fiberglass shop....a machine shop and a glass shop they could knock them out! haha.

The shim helps reduce the angle of the ball joint to the knuckle. About a 1" shim is about 3" of lift on the one i did. If you can get the spring installed with a 2" spacer....that would be impressive. The entire weight of the truck was required to get the little 3" lift spacers installed...