Recent content by lolercaust

So iv got a M1028 in wonderful shape but i some times kick my self for not getting a m1009 instead. I think the 09 looks more like a military service vehicle then the pickups and iv all ways wanted a blazer. But what sold me on the 28 was the frame, axles and suspension. BUT what if i removed...

Ok was looking over the circuit and the diode is for gen 2 so im at a loss.

So my M1028 started having a Gen 1 problem. The light comes on at start up and stays on until i drive about 150-200 meters then goes off and stays off, until i shut it down and start it again then it does it all over again. So i swapped the alternators around and the problem didn't fallow...

Thanks but i used my powers of deductive reasoning and figured out the springs. The large one goes on bottom and small one goes on top, at least that's the way i have it on. there's no more drag and the truck drives and stops fine. I all so sanded all the caliper sliding surfaces to a shinny...

So iv been dealing with excessive brake drag in the front, not bad enough to not drive it but bad enough for me to take it apart. Its got new pads and rotors but i just want to clarify. on the inner pad there are two springs, the larger of the two is mounted to the pad its self while the smaller...

OK time for a resurrection.....From the best of my memory all the instrument lights are good old 194's. My question is if any one knows a place that has the light plugs for the the voltmeter, heater control and courtesy light that take 194 bulbs. Its entirely to hot to sit out side and pull...

OK so iv been playing with the truck, i took the tank vent line off the upper fill neck. Then plugged the neck and turned around the vent hose over the tank and added a breather element. I did this after the tank gasped for air at the pump, so i figured a venting problem was the culprit...

I don't let her go bellow a half tank ever...half full is totally empty at least that's what the army taught me, info for what its worth.

There is one thing that i forgot to mention, like i said it only does it at a stop in gear idling. The shacking coincides with the fuel sloshing in the tank. When the fuel moves forward during the initial stop the shacking slightly increases and when it flows to the rear the shake lessens...

Thats the thing the IP isn't leaking and the check ball and fuel behind it are crystal clear and the lift pump is new less the 4000 miles. Though admittedly checking the vent and returns would be a good idea which is some thing i haven't done yet, but i haven't felt the need to she runs and...

I haven't found any thing that discusses this. Keep in mind i NEVER "top off" my vehicles, but i do fill to F and i some times miss judge the amount i need and i might go a little over F. My truck runs great and idles like a top until i refuel then she wants to shake. When i say shake i mean...

Alright so i did find a small yet quick vacuum leak at the pumps t junction so new rubber, T and now line clamps (i recommend the clamps). The pump pulls 25Hg like a champ and the VRV wont hold vacuum still so a new one is in order. Final diagnoses is that the leak was not enough for 1-2 to...

Ok i gota run do some stuff but when i get back gonna dive in face first. Ill just pull vacuum on every line and make sure they all hold. So vacuum pump is 20-25" at idle and what should i draw at the modulator at idle? Trying to get every thing good for work monday.

I adobe reader is only a few weeks past its last update, i think the whole file might be corrupt. I agree with Skinny 99% stupid yes. There is only two parts of this truck im shy about tearing apart the IP (never done one) and i haven't torn a TH apart in a couple years. iv got all the tools...

Before every one gets butt hurt i all ready tried using the Tm's, but my computer is acting up and wont let PDF files stay open. So here is what going on my 84 M1028, 1-2 shift is butter 2-3 seems late and hard. I just put in a new B&M adjustable modulator (red ring), filter, inspected and...