The new air pressure gauge will read front & rear air pressures separately?
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New Dash Layout in the works……
- Thread starter ramdough
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Trans temp. If you have a Options Panel you could modify the face plate or make a face plate for the rest of your gauges. A crafty guy like you could build an enclosed Options Panel and add a tailored faceplate to suite your needs.
Guruman
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Well. I've been comparing two different setups.
Lots (most?) semi trucks use a mechanical gauge with dual needles. Like this:
This would get both front and rear brake pressure in one dash space, freeing up a hole for a dual boost/egt in a single hole.
But...
For custom air suspension setups, they make gauges with 4 or even 5 pressure inputs (for all 4 corners plus the tank pressure). This could give me more options for monitoring nto just the brake pressure, but tank, and maybe keeping an eye on the CTIS. All in that single panel space.
Slick stuff! If it has been developed for aftermarket applications, a digital/LED display that would provide all of your data in a single package would be best. And if it had “heads-up display” capability that would be NEAT-O!
Guruman
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Most stuff these days are looking to plug into an OBDII port to get the data. But they are a few made for racing applications that give you a digital display with old-school sensor inputs.
Dakota Digital makes a bunch, but there are other companies out there.
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=69/mode=cat/cat69.htm
coachgeo
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Ya'll giving me ideas I can afford or have knowledge to do. But what the hell will throw the ideas out anyway cause maybe it will spark some ideas for others.
use the combination gauges enough places to re-arrange the whole gauges layout to where one could put camera monitor(s) in the dash.
use the combination gauges enough places to re-arrange the whole gauges layout to where one could put camera monitor(s) in the dash.
Guruman
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yeah... so along those lines.
Being a computer guy all my life. I thought about moving stuff around and combining gauges as much as possible to get a computer display mounted in the dash. Throw a fanless PC or Mac mini somewhere and boom... mapping, night vision, vehicle telematics...Netflix....
There's also some interesting shaped plug and play monitors these days. Stuff that might fit in the same footprint as the A0 or A1 warning light panel hole.
I'll throw some links below from my "research" folder.
https://www.gothamsound.com/library/mod-mac-mini-dc-power
https://wisecoco.en.alibaba.com/pro...?spm=a2700.shop_plser.41413.12.378b4986M83Zq0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FJ21RNW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4P7QHY
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095R6SXX1/
ramdough
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I need to trim the gray lip on the right side about 1/8” to clear my new switches.
also, anyone know what this stud is for?
below is where the potentiometer is mounted.
also, anyone know what this stud is for?
below is where the potentiometer is mounted.
Ronmar
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That stud might be part of the manual/hand throttle mount on the A0…
ramdough
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Trimmed this lip back…..
them mounted the dash. Looks like it will get tight when ai wire in all of the new stuff, but I think I will have enough room. I will probably chain them together and have them all on a common ground to switch relays elsewhere.
them mounted the dash. Looks like it will get tight when ai wire in all of the new stuff, but I think I will have enough room. I will probably chain them together and have them all on a common ground to switch relays elsewhere.
ramdough
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Thanks everyone for the tips and advice!
Very, very nice. Great job. I love it
.Ronmar
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I am sorry that is completely unacceptable. You need to deliver that mess to me immediately so I can see to a proper “disposition”…
ramdough
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Found the matching pair on my winch/accessory harness.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RRaulston
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I really like your light switch mod. My lever mechanical OEM switch is ridiculously confusing. I'm assuming you ran pins from the harness to the switch and grouped a bunch of them together for park/brake lights and headlights?I ditched the filter-minder gauge for primary fuel pressure. I dropped out the round voltmeter for a dual led display unit that fits in a switch hole, and used the round opening to add engine oil temp.
Over on the left I put in a dual needle air gauge and standalone low air switches to replace the gauge sensors. Moved the fuel gauge up to the middle and put in a trans oil temp gauge on the bottom next to the trans control…
If I put in another fuel tank, I think I would just put in a gauge tank select sw or tie it into the tank select valve control if used.
The 3lever light sw has a 2position dimmer in it. I used mine for a bit but now have a different sw so need a new standalone dimmer as I prefer a dark pilothouse.
Here is my A0 dash makeover walk-thru vid
Third From Texas
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Yeah, he did a sweet dash layout. You'll note that he did retain the OEM switch, though.
Originally I did consider deleting the OEM switch and adding a standard automotive headlight pull switch just for the basics. A few people have done it on these trucks (and in a couple cases only because they hated the lever swatch).
I have the newer version and I'd love to retask it (it's a lot of switch for the space). I'll have my park lights come on with the ignition switch (if I had a dollar for every time I drove some place with no brake lights or turn signals, LOL). The same retask could be done for the lever switch (example: instead of BO drive have it turn on headlights and fog light, instead of BO markers have headlights and light bars).
If I move parking lights to the ignition (there's a post detailing this mod somewhere), delete the BO stuff (retask the wiring runs to new lights), and retain: Off/ Head Lights/ Pnl Dim/Pnl Bright...then I gain four new functions out of the switch. So I'd add something like: Headlights and Fog Lights, Headlights and Lightbar 01, Headlights, Lightbar 01 and Lightbar 02, and an Interior light switch. I'm pretty sure with the right connections and some relays it could work.
Of course I don't know for a fact I can actually all do this, but it's a nice thought.
LOL
Ronmar
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Well the brake lights you can simply hardwire. They dont actually get powered till you step on the pedal. They are always hot on most vehicles.
the ignition switch actually switches a ground path to energize the ignition relays. You will have to pickoff the park/TS power from the output of the 12v ignition relay. If this is an A0 you will have to add a 12v ignition relay
the ignition switch actually switches a ground path to energize the ignition relays. You will have to pickoff the park/TS power from the output of the 12v ignition relay. If this is an A0 you will have to add a 12v ignition relay
ramdough
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So, I rebuilt and repurposed the winch/accessory harness.
see post here:
After install, there was room, but barely to get everything connected.
Hopefully when I fire this thing up, I will be officially done with this part of the project.
see post here:
Custom winch wiring.
I have an A0 winch with the harness from that. I am installing on an A1 truck. Instead of wiring into my truck harnesses, I am proposing rewiring it to be always hot. I took a crack at the wiring schematic. Will post next post the pictures. @Ronmar any thoughts? Anyone else? Sent from...
www.steelsoldiers.com
After install, there was room, but barely to get everything connected.
Hopefully when I fire this thing up, I will be officially done with this part of the project.