New to Mep-803A ownership general questions

I did the same thing, the first time a screwed with the linkage. You are now a member of a very exclusive club.

In the first vid you posted, it kinda looked like that was the problem. But wasnt sure. Thats why I asked for another.

Pictures are worth a million words.

Going through this rebuild would have been a failure without you guys, If your ever in NJ (Toms river area), I owe you a BIG Fancy meal at least and a case of beer!
This was such an awesome project and the community here is just priceless. I can't describe how much love i have for you guys!!!

Never know, I might show up one day, hat in hand.

So that is definetly contributing to the situation; but it does seem that even when i make sure the knob only comes back about half way, it is still screaming , unles they just sound that loud with a muffler. and the i still cant get it to stop itself with the solenoid. Its like the solenoidaction is so fast and hard it bumps the linkage to hard

See if this helps.

Also, do you have a multimeter that reads hertz? If so, stick the leads into the 120 Volt outlet. Start the set. What is the reading? Can you use the Hertz adjust knob, (Item 20) to adjust it?

Guyfang said:

Also, do you have a multimeter that reads hertz? If so, stick the leads into the 120 Volt outlet. Start the set. What is the reading? Can you use the Hertz adjust knob, (Item 20) to adjust it?
View attachment 919058

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sure do, and sure will.

2-89-4. Adjustment
a. Shut down generator set.
b. Open left side engine access door and remove control cable wedge (2, Figure 2-24) from governor speed lever
(3).
c. Loosen jam nuts on both speed adjust bolts on governor control and turn bolts counterclockwise until they do
not touch speed lever (3).
d. Adjust frequency control adjust cable (6) with nuts (4) and (7) and connect cable to speed lever (3) so that lever
is positioned approximately mid-range.
e. Start generator set. Using frequency adjust control, adjust frequency to 65 Hz (420 Hz for MEP-812A).
f. Turn high speed adjust bolt on governor control until it contacts speed lever (3) and tighten jam nut
g. Using frequency adjust control, adjust frequency to 58 Hz (388 Hz for MEP-812A)
h. Turn low speed adjust bolt on governor control until it contacts speed lever (3) and tighten jam nut
i. Using frequency adjust control, cycle generator set frequency from minimum to maximum and back to minimum
to verify settings.
j. Readjust high or low speed adjust bolts on governor control as needed to obtain required frequency adjustment
range.

Test first, then adjust.

Its closing in on 00:00. Got my two Thugs, (Grand Sons) coming over in the morning. Got to be fit to keep up. So will be here till then. Maybe someone else can jump in here if you need more help.

I actually realized I still had the injection pumps rotated too much clockwise in the block!, Thanks so much for all your help between all the info you shared im sure ill figure it out! Best regards and much love from NJ!

I have followed the pump setting procedure to the tee,, and still; it seems to rev really high and i cant seem to shut it down with the regualr turn off procedure, (not that i gave it too much time to find out. ) i wonder if it is possible that because i tried starting it so many times rich, theres a bunch of unburnt fuel lingering that needs to burn off?? its certainly smoking alot to as i start it..

No, not a possibility. Did you check the linkage set up that I sent you? Take another picture of the L5 and linkage. Then a film of it in action, from start up to you turning the S1 to off. When you turn S1 to stop, will the L5 change position? Did you look at the throttle cable info I sent? Did you fool with the Droop adjustment?

Heres a closer look at what im dealing with (video below), Im very uneducated and novice when it comes to electrical generation terms and topics however im highly interested in all this. This "Droop adjustment" is all new to me. Just spent some time reading online resources. As in realationship to this machine, I'm guessing my problems lies within some of these varibles.

First off, RPM = Hertz. thats a direct relation. RPM dictates Hertz.

Second off, there is no idle. The set is supposed to run, all the time, at 60 hertz. When it runs right, and you stop the gen set, you just close the doors and walk away. Never adjust the throttle cable down to Idle/cool off the set.

The way the throttle cable is now, you have it set on the lowest possible setting. You said it was "relaxed". Thats why it wont start, or takes for ever to start. Pull/screw out the throttle cable with the knob, until the linkage moves back a 1/4 inch. Then try and start it. Looking at the hertz meter, or a DMM plugged into the 120 volt out let. When the output is 120 VAC, that means the RPM/Hertz is at about 60 hertz. Make the set run. then adjust the cable until you have 60 hertz. The set never even came close to operating speed.

The black knob on the linkage still looks like its not very free. It looks like it binds.

When you say, "Its still running", have you turned the S1 off by then?

Yeah you aren't even close to the right operating RPM at that setting. I just took a quick photo of an 802 throttle position on one I am working on in my driveway this weekend... just for conversation purposes. You can see the rough gap between both set screw stops. This machine is dead on at 60hz.



Its more prevalent on the two cylinder models, but if you have a cylinder or two not firing... the machine will often not build full RPM (cant overcome the mechanical drag). I am still not convinced there isn't a pump issue in this machine, seeing as you gave them the BFH treatment.

Did you adjust the stop position of this shutdown solenoid? If it goes too far left, the pumps can jump out of the rack more easily, then you are dealing with issues you think are corrected. That machine took too long to kick over, if the lines were full of fuel and the metering pumps were working correctly.

I would remove the cast iron exhaust manifold and inspect the smoke color and air temperature of each cylinder.

Here is an 802 I had recently worked on. The cylinder nearest the radiator was not getting fuel. Exhaust color was different, and the air coming out was cold.

Before eval: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/pw25Md5yITE

With manifold removed: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/GlNmtkmIo_c

After fixing metering pump near radiator: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/jUN6FNbjmdA

You will get there.

Yes, i turn the S1 off and that doesn't kill the engine like right away, I don't understand why? I think contributing to the slow start ups is that I keep having to kill it by pulling off the feed lines.

I'll be running with the exhust manifold off to check cylinders, and with the throttle adjusted, and with a electric meter attached.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Z3pyZEaG8kg
(this is with the fuel pumps clocked the wrong way)

I dont want to be near it when it sounds like this though... and it still kinda does

I think you are a bit shy. Trust me, the engine is not running fast in the film. And its starting way to slow. Hook up the hoses and start it.

LITD's picture is spot on. The throttle cable is set right. The thing runs at 1800 RPM. that is not slow.

Ok, I looked again at the film. You started cranking, it takes for ever to start. Then just as it starts to run up to speed, the L5 goes back to the off position. Is this you turning the S1 off? Because if it is, than it ever more looks and sounds like you need to adjust the throttle cable to the right position and start it, to see what it does. Would be nice if you filmed and someone else started it. And yell out when you are going to start and when you are going to turn S1 off.

yes , that is me turning the S1 off. certainly going to do just as you said. im just ptting it back on the trailer so i dont suffocate myself, even with all the bus windows down, its too much smoke to deal with.