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It's been a little while since I posted any mods that I've done on the lil Draggin' so I'll see about getting some of the more notable ones posted up and work on occasionally adding to this adventure/build thread. So the latest was to move my CB whip off the bed edge and out front. I wanted to...

I don't think I would pull the drums off to test that. I'm pretty sure you can over extend the wheel cylinders if there's no drum to stop them. Just jack the wheel off the ground and spin it, then have someone push on the break pedal while you're spinning it. Wheels chocked and everything in...

I would guess that its the airpack bleeding past the cup? You might have to join the rest of us that just rebuilt our airpacks. Hopefully someone that does lots more work on these systems than I will be able to give you some input as well.

I can see how that was confusing. What I meant was that my WMO processing system has pressure gauges on all filter heads. I haven't yet gauged the ones on the truck. I did put a gauge on the secondaries of an M-109 that we built out. Used a brass T w/ a cutoff valve so I could still bleed it...

Those were good times! I met a third Will from Red Mtn years later that said he knew you guys as well. I do disagree w/ the WMO clogging up the filters on the truck if processed appropriately before hand. Not that I haven't clogged my share of filters but I could always trace it back to...

Full time WMO burner here and been doing it for a decade. 100% in the summer and 10gal gas mixed w/ 40gal WMO in the winter. I filter through 2 -20 micron filters, 1 - 10 micron and sometimes a 5 micron before adding it to my tank. Pressure gauges on all filters so I only change out the one...

I'm careful about not calling the wheel cylinders "slave cylinders" on these trucks since the hydraulic part thats connected to the airpack is known as the slave cylinder in the TMs.

Sometimes twisting the top isn't enough. I've had to take them off and using the backend of a drill bit or drift punch press a stuck rubber seal loose before.

^^^ same here.

It sounds like it didn't happen until "after" you did the rear axles and were moving on to front ones? If thats the case I would back up and do the rears again just to be positive they're correct. Remember that the two cams on one wheel turn in opposite directions.

They did it w/o air pressure when they were bleeding the brakes the first time.

Yep, that's the location. Yours looks shaped a little different but basically the same. Thanks for being brave! If it was up to my lady that would have been a hard NO! "Sent w/o me knowing"

Figures, . . . which end attaches to the shoe? "Sent w/o me knowing"

Since there's a current thread about the parking brake, Is this the spring for the outer shoe return? And if so how does it go on? The pics in the -209-20P don't show how it attaches and I'm having trouble getting a good view up there.

So here's one, how do you get the horn wire back once its been (accidentally) pulled part way down the tube?

Figured I would just carry on w/ this thread since I constantly have something getting worked on. At the moment I've just finished up a airpack and MC rebuild, bled the system and adjusted the shoes. While I was under there I noticed that I have a bad u-joint on the front drive shaft . . . so I...

Because searching their online catalog can be weekend long rabbit hole, Here's a link to the fittings I've been using for the last decade+...

Just be sure to use nylon if you're using the clear line, the other stuff will get soft, swell up and start leaking. McMasters carrys the line as well as the appropriate fittings. Some have changed over to air brake line instead of the clear.

Did this get fixed?

Excellent! I was going to start researching just such a cap!