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You'll get it lighter than 'diesel-soot black' but not as clean as new. I run my 2.5gpm system for 24 hours, then clean it. Repeat until you have a clean enough bowl to be happy. Other than power usage & a little wear, there's no reason you can't run it longer & see how much you can get out...

I suspect the same disc is used for multiple applications. Rivet a different center section & more/less pads to change the torque capabilities & needed spring pressures. Doing so for a modern clutch might not be as economical but if someone's making clutches for older applications, it may be...

7K isn't insane, given deuce prices lately. My water-purification body is slowly becoming an RV, but it's taking a while. If the lower hinge on the side panel is in good condition, you may even be able to open the entire side- mine is rusted enough that I'm not sure it'd survive. They have a...

For indoor storage, I've gotten good results from a BatteryMINDer model 24041. They're about $140-150, but they also include a 1/2/4A charger & support flooded, gel & AGM batteries. If connected wrong, they just turn the indicator lights red- no harm done. My only gripe is that they default back...

I've used a 1" square stick of scrap as a flame-test before, with good results. A blowtorch lights diesel nicely, oil fairly well, silicone (DOT-5) barely & paint thinner vigorously. Experiment with known liquids you've got on hand- more things burn than you expect, like pure antifreeze. I got...

Actually, I had meant winterization between runs. Once the engine's warm, I see no problem with introducing water into the lines or nozzle. The solenoid is safely inside the cab & tends to be self-heating during use. If I install my tanks in the M109's box, I can put them in a box with some...

Kreen from Kano Labs works wonders- a quart in the oil & a hundred miles of driving will remove disturbing amounts of sludge & free stuck lifters & rings. Change your oil withing a few hundred miles of adding it- the product boils off pretty quick, but the nasty junk it just removed will still...

Define "Working Good." Aside from random leaks caused by fittings that needed tightening, I've not had any malfunctions. I'd like to add a few pressure switches to add an indicator light circuit to show that the system's got electrical power & pressure to the solenoid. "Working Good" as far...

6' 2", so not as tall as some of my brothers-in-OD-iron. I upgraded from box to spring-base, then swapped the stock seat assemblies for a set of more modern contoured .mil seats. I've no idea what they came out of, as some had front/back adjustment, some didn't, different bolt patterns, etc...

I've seen a couple consumer-grade generators that use a 30A breaker before the 20A breaker. Works, but the overall design was best described as lazy. Be advised- that 120/240v 30A receptacle may have been built to 20A spec, depending on who spec'd it. Hooray China! Wiring color seemed random...

Doghead, not with those wires coming out. A faraday cage only works if nobody pokes holes in it & runs emp-antennas (wires) out. To be honest, if I get nuked close enough to worry about my truck's electronics frying, I've got bigger problems.... like the fact that my tires on one side are on...

From looking around, the box houses the relays for the master power switch & starter relay. Diodes are used on the 809 series box to prevent contact arcing, much like the flasher module relay upgrade mod. I'm uncertain what the 939 series box does that the 809's box doesn't. 939 boxes work with...

ABS is the most vulnerable- PM magazine loudly emntions to let the engine stop completely before shutting off the battery switch, to protect the ABS from spikes. From recent threads I've seen elsewhere, anything short of a nuke-emp wont bother vehicles. Solar EMP will only break big electrical...

If we were really nice we'd post a pic of the relay with the right connector circled & labeled by the color of the wire going to it. Come to think of it, why isn't that fix & pic a sticky on the CUCV forum? I can get a pic or three for you tomorrow morning if you want to add it, or put it in the...

I've considered yanking the driver's side toolbox & stuff them in there. From the edge of the cab to the inside of the brackets, there's quite a lot of room. Add a commercial 8D battery box or a generic plastic case.

Once the relay's replaced, a single wire to a pushbutton switch. Ground the other side of the switch. It'll only work when the key's on, like the normal glowplug controller. Turn key to 'Run', push button, wait 15, turn key to 'Start' while holding button. Keep holding button after it starts...

I'm not sure when the last rebuild was, but I think my engine's dataplate is dated '89. The copper lines on the frame, steel injector lines & tank may not have been this well cleaned in 20+ years. Fuel used to look like dark tea, lightened up considerably after adding the B20, then got darker...

Kohburn, that last line sounded like something I said yesterday about my fuel system. This spring I'm replacing every rubber/copper/nylon line I've got with Biodiesel rated bits. I suddenly got nervous about the little rubber line in the tank, the old copper hard-lines & the unknown (nylon?)...

As mentioned earlier in this thread, any kind of ethanol/methanol in the intake of a (hot?) multifuel makes for nasty engine knock. Pure water or very low (1%) methanol only. Pressure's a big challenge, even with the soda kegs- My truck runs around 85-95 PSI and the pepsi-style kegs have a...

Ok, after a couple of long drives (totaling over 1200mi) Here are my experiences & recommendations. Get a 10GPH nozzle, unless you want to try a multi-stage system. 15 may be needed if you really want to crank it, but it'll demand even more water. Get the 24v electronic controller from Auber...