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You're right on the money on the boost and EGT. I've put several on for other people and they're doing fine. Heck, I used to put Schwitzer smoke kits on semi's running the 250 Cummins back in the early 70's and it was the same thing. California started handing out tickets for excessive smoke...

There's a place in Oregon that is the best I've found and if they don't have it they'll find it and then start stocking it. I first came across them when I was working in Egypt and restored a Turkish 56 Chevy. They shipped stuff to there and didn't bat an eye. My brother lives in Alaska and...

I've had a Banks Sidewinder turbo kit sitting on the shelf in my shop for way too long and decided to put it on and open up some shelf space. I still had the original motor mounts and was having a problem with the exhaust head pipe coming off the turbo hitting the frame so checked my motor...

I've seen a number of times where all of the bulbs burned out quickly after a couple of others did. Theory explained to me by Chevrolet when the CUCVs were about a year old was that as other bulbs burned out the remaining ones in the same circuit burn hotter and burn out quickly. Ohms law...

I'd be worried if she wants to learn to drive it and asks you to see if the head lights are on! Let me know if you need any help or info (I'm in Olympia). I also have a parts truck with some stuff left on it.

You're 100% correct. It'll do that for a set period, which is designed to keep from overheating the glow plugs. It assumes the engine is running though. If you look at how your glow plugs are situated you'll see that they're right below the injectors. The Army had a heck of a problem on both...

The squeal you're hearing is belt slippage. To be 100% sure you can dribble a bit of water on the belt to see if it makes the squeal stop temporarily. Is the belt sitting deep into the groove of the alternator pulley? The back of the belt (widest part that has the part number printed on it)...

You should start the engine soon after the wait light goes out. The glow plugs need to be cooled by the fuel injecting across them or they'll swell and eventually burn out. You really don't want to have to try to get swollen glow plugs out if you can help it.

There should be a manufacturers code and part number on it. Hoses should too (normally a metal tag on the hose). If you can post that it's generally easy to link to what it goes on, especially the hoses. The motor may have multiple applications but the hoses are usually specific to one end...

The first thing you want to do when you get your CUCV is change the ignition cylinder and the door locks - unless you want everyone out there with a CUCV key to have access to your rig. They're all keyed the same, which is why they had a big chain bolted/welded to the floor or seat frame to...

I'd have grabbed it too. If nothing else it'd give me a good excuse to expand the shop when I run out of storage room!

Any luck with your truck? Don't be distracted by the sway bar/torsion bar discussion since it doesn't apply to a stock M1028.

I have a couple of spares red blocks that I've kept since they're getting harder to find. Thanks for the link on the Diesel Power Magazine article - hadn't seen that one!

Are you running stock wheels, tires and suspension? If not, what all have you done it, especially the front end. Also, look around the frame where the steering box mounts for cracks or signs of movement. The cracks were mainly on the M1009 ("Blazer") version but some guys have reported it on...

Different year civilian engines can have big differences. My 82 GMC 6.2 is completely different. Heads are different, threads for glow plugs, rods are lighter (and bend easier) and things like that. 84 and up are pretty much the same block. My 84 civilian suburban doesn't have holes drilled...

Now that's what they mean when they say to work smarter not harder - Gotta build one of them. Thanks for the share!!

Was the replacement one off of a civilian truck? I was pretty sure that all of the military filter bases and wiring are the same across the CUCV fleet (Blazers and Pickups) but looked it up in the Army parts manual and it shows the same for all CUCVs. I have several parts trucks and a driver...

Combat vehicles were converted from red to blue because the wavelength of the light from red lights is like shooting up a flare to infrared and night vision equipment.

Would love to see a photo not quite as close as this one but it looks a lot like the fender might be pushed back and didn't allow enough space when the door was opened. Hopefully there's no frame damage or anything. Do you know how to usw a plumb bob and a chalk line to diamond the frame and...

I've had great luck using the relays (and other items) from CUCV electric. They have a direct replacement that's better quality than the GM one plus for a couple of more dollars have a HD one in a mod kit they've put together. If you wait for the WAIT light before cranking the engine you'll...