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Make sure you check the operator's manual about backing up in low range! That's usually what cracks the transfer case.

Just came across this thread - brings back memories! These things did a good job, though the D7E was a bit underpowered. When the Army got the D7F it was a lot better and the D8K's were awesome. They eventually got D7G's (clear in the 1980's) and those are great machines but they had to bring...

I've upgraded all of my relays - ounce of preparation vs. pound of cure type of thing. My starter relay acted up a couple of times after my CUCV had sat for a month or so and I figured it was better to spend the $10.00 to replace it than wait until I was out in the boonies having to climbe...

You mentioned what looked like a splice wrapped with tape. Some are factory and others are not and are often just where someone twisted wires together and wrapped with tape. These kinds of splices often corrode and will get hot enough to use as a cigarette lighter. Not sure whether that's the...

My life story - a day late and a dollar short. I was reading up on painting my CUCV and came across this note. Ends today (and is right down the road from me). Sheesh. Next year!

Anything you can do to protect your fuel injection system is money well spent. Fuel does get contaminated and the injection system is the most expensive part of your engine. My cousin manages a refinery and tells me that when the fuel suppliers get ready to change over between summer and...

Put on all new drive belts and KYB Monotube Shocks - was getting too much body roll on corners with the camper on so rolled underneath and had two leaking shocks. What a difference! The KYBs are awesome.

Nope - not useable. Without being there to look at it I can't say 100% but I've rebuilt a bunch of these and when I see one like this I always also see bad bearings and balance problems. You're about to grenade the turbo and dump all of the pieces down into your engine. (whatever it came off...

Hopefully you've found one by now but if not go to cucvelectric.com. Many times the board burning out is a symptom, not the problem so make sure you do the checks they have where you pull the board and run tests. It only takes a multimeter. Make 100% sure your grounds are good. Also, Wait...

This is an older thread but just in case someone is using this info to make a decision, there are several items that need to be taken into consideration. First, the curb weight is based on the configuration of what you would get when you ordered the National Stock Number for a particular truck...

Should be good to go now.

I'm very familiar with the glow plugs you mentioned. We (Army Tank-Automotive and Armaments Command) did a lot of testing on them and found some surprising results. You're absolutely correct that they're a vast improvement, though some brands (Bosch for instance) still swell enough to be a...

I just came back from a year in Iraq and we did a LOT of experimenting with cooling our vehicle engines. We added armor and A/C to our vehicles, which put more load on the cooling system to the point that the guys turned the A/C off to keep the engines from heating up and vapor locking the fuel...

Quick note on the failed controller - the biggest reason by far that this happens is that people try to start the vehicle before the wait light goes out. If your starter is going bad it'll cause the vehicle to start hard too. The 24V starter usually fails slowly and ends up pulling a lot of...

You need to be real careful doing this! The glow plugs in the CUCV are designed for cold weather starting to meet arctic application requirements. When the Army first fielded the CUCV GM advised that the glow plugs in the CUCV were 12 volt plugs, where the commercial trucks had 6 volt plugs...