Search results

Pull out your multi-meter and the troubleshooting guide in the TM and check all of the points starting at your batteries. I had a similar issue once which turned out to be a corroded pin in the engine harness cannon plug.

Dilvoy- thanks for the info about the head bolts. In spite of what the TM says, or better yet doesn't say, the head bolts are certainly a discard item. I corroborated this fact with a friend who's owned a local garage for the last 30+ years- once I told him the torque values (20, 50, then...

I suppose you can try re-torqueing the bolts as a bandaid measure and see if that will at least buy you some time. The TM is very specific about the process so make sure you follow it to the letter. You'll also need an 18mm socket for the job, which I had to go out and buy because none of my...

I'd say that if the head gasket is compromised in one spot due to age, etc other failures probably aren't far behind. But, if you're going to do one, you might as well do them both. I recently had the same issue and decided to pull the heads once I started blowing white smoke on start-up from...

My truck's s/n is 6654 and fortunately for me that plate wasn't removed. I personally believe the '99 auction serial number list is an urban legend since everyone claims it exists but nobody knows where to find it. lol

Mine is a USMC machine which came from the California auction, and I believe I'm the fourth owner. Unfortunately one of the previous owners has painted it and I don't have any of the original markings to help with unit ID. The data plate is gone as well, so I'm merely assuming it's a 998.

Not sure if this will work, but here's the whole RAND document.

This is a table I found published in the HMMWV Modernization Plan by RAND. I'm not sure how accurate it is, but this company contracted by the DOD seems pretty thorough with their info gathering.

I drive mine all year round here in SE Ontario and aside from some basic preparations for winter driving it's more or less business as usual. I've installed peel-and-stick foam weather seal on the forward door wells to keep the draft out while driving, and I lower the tire pressure. These...

I suspect the TDM is the culprit once again since I tested the temp switch using the hot water method and it's serviceable. However, there's some good electrical circuit tests illustrated in the 'Component Testing and Troubleshooting' leaflet (5715434) that cover all of these components and...

Well, it happened. My truck has finally made up its mind and the fan has now defaulted to the full-time 'on' position. Since I've now lost a good chunk of my horsepower I'm motivated to begin troubleshooting the culprit. lol

Yes, the fan comes on when I unplug the TDM as it should. The system is designed to default 'on' if there's a problem to prevent overheating, but for whatever reason my system believes it's working properly even though the fan does not come on when it should. Obviously the Cadillac valve is...

I've recently begun to experience the same problem as well. I tested the temp sensor using the hot water method and it works as it should. I then swapped the TDM with another one I had, but that didn't solve the issue either. At this point out of process of elimination I believe the Cadillac...

The heater sucks and you'll only get warm air at best. You'd think the Humvee would put out nuclear heat but it doesn't, I'm guessing because of the poor design and small size of the heater. In comparison my Iltis with its little 1.7 4 cyl puts out so much heat you can't hold your hand in...

Aluminum is soft and chemically treated with alodine to resist corrosion. Sand blasting can easily remove the alodine coating as well as damage the surface of the metal. The only stripping of aircraft panels, etc we do are by either plastic media blasting or by chemical stripper. The plastic...

The gen on my truck was doing same when I first got it a few years back. I discovered the rear cast mount of the gen itself had snapped and the only thing holding the whole unit secure was the front mount and the tensioner bracket. By the book there's supposed to be the twisted chunk of steel...

Not a fun job because it's in a poor location for access. The unit level maint TM book 2 (3-32) has everything you need to know.

From what I understand 1985 is the first production year. What's the s/n?

The wire hanging down under your truck is the engine harness cable 81A that goes to the pos stud on your starter.

Yup, when I pulled and tested all of mine they all metered between 2.0 and 2.5 ohms. You can hold them right in your hand and hold the red probe to the GP's connector tip and the black probe to the collar. I suppose you can meter them while still installed, but I personally would recommend...