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The schematic shows 24v power going to one plug, then to the other, then to ground. If they're mounted to an isolated plate, I'd expect the power goes to the top of one, then out of it into the plate, then from the plate into the second heater (backwards compared to the first heater), then out...
Assuming the chuck has a taper that matches the spindle, you can put a block of wood on the drill press table and run the quill down, so the wood drives the chuck onto the taper snugly.
I'm glad the fuse was the problem. The voltage will probably keep climbing slowly as you run the generator more. It should not go over about 29 or so.
Thanks, but all I have is AC and DC regulators for the 002A and 003A. Others here can often supply parts at reasonable prices if you need any.
My money is on the fuse fixing the problem. I don't use a 30A fuse in mine though. The charging system isn't good for more than about seven amps, so a 15A fuse should handle the job fine. It's not a critical thing though.
I appreciate your endorsement, justacitizen.
It would be best to replace the fuse to start with. The regulator output may be a bit erratic without a connection to the battery. Then check the regulator output with the generator running and see what you get. If the battery is low, it could take a few minutes to see the voltage coming up...
Based on other general cases I've heard about, like someone putting gasoline in a diesel powered car, I don't think there will be any direct damage, but if it sat in there a long time, and if it contained alcohol, for example, there could be some corrosion in the fuel system. It certainly...
The vehicle charging system has a voltage limit, as you said, somewhere in the 14 volt range for a 12v battery, and the charge current will taper down near zero as the battery reaches full charge. Solar panels don't have that voltage limit, and a panel designed for good efficiency at 14v could...
If you happened to have installed one of my 24v regulators on an 002A or 003A, you can wire up a switch to disconnect the battery charging alternator and connect a solar panel to the regulator's two yellow wires. The regulator will then act as a charge controller. A 2-pole double-throw switch...
Definitely true. A good friend of mine is dyslexic, but is also a very talented engineer and programmer who writes complicated computer simulations for the military.
One guy I worked with was an above average producer and all-around helpful guy, but couldn't read. He was expert at hiding it. Several times I found a catalog page for him when he was trying to tell the boss he needed to order a tool for the shop. I never let him know that I knew though.
It's likely that for some reason you don't have enough exciter field current. It could be a lot of things. I'd start with checking the diodes on the A4 board (in box under output lugs). If they're OK, I'd check the resistances of the windings of CVT1 against the resistances in the -34 manual...
You might consider writing clear and simple step by step instructions on how to go to generator power during an outage. I did that a few years ago, and got my wife and kids to practice the procedure a couple times. They keep the instructions handy, and use them. I was out for an hour or two...
I was glad to hear the success story. The resistor, R11, was definitely overheated and badly discolored, so it needed replacement. I just checked its resistance for fun once I got it out of the board, and it was within an ohm or two of its 330 ohm nominal value. That's a tribute to modern...