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Guyfang, you're referring to non-corrosive soldering flux when you say "solder paste", correct? Or do you mean solder paste that's ground up solder, mixed with non-corrosive flux?

A good amount of hope really helps when computers and the Internet are concerned. :)

It's very unlikely that the range would overheat, or that its load is anything but a nice, resistive one. In fact, a range should make a very good load bank.

I didn't find that to be the case, but I'm sure every installation is different. I actually extended my antenna with some RG-58 coax. There's a sensitivity adjustment inside the housing, but they don't tell you about it.

You could keep a Kleenex in your pocket, and jam a couple balls of it in your ears when the alarm goes off. :)

Just don't be near it when it alarms, it'll bust your eardrums.

The Reliance Controls Corporation THP108 POWER BACK Mains Return Alarm works well. https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-Corporation-THP108-Return/dp/B003KREORA It has an antenna wire that needs to be wrapped around any lead on the supply side of the main breaker, if you can get to one...

It sounds like the PTO generators were designed for 1000 RPM PTOs. Like you, my Ford 4000 doesn't have that option, only 540.

Imagine my surprise the first time I was out and drove back into the driveway, and heard the generator running. :)

I'm lucky that my wife understood why I bought an 003A, and learned how to operate it in case I'm not around.

I owned my 003A for a year or two before I noticed it on the schematic. Apparently this prechamber type diesel, like most/all, will not start without the glow plugs. Or at least it would be very difficult to start.

Interestingly, the glow plugs and air heaters are active during cranking on the 002A and 003A. This means that if you start cranking without any preheat and it starts in 20 seconds, you preheated for 20 seconds before it would start.

Are you talking about the meter switch? Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but it can't disconnect the load. Of course you don't want to move the big reconnect switch under load. Jimbo, I find that my 003A starts with much less drama if I use preheat for 20 or 30 seconds in the summer and more like...

I would get a manometer on it and see what's really happening before I assumed anything. If I take off the oil filler cap on a single cylinder Briggs and Stratton engine, oil and vapor will come flying out and go all over the place because of the crankcase pumping, yet the engine is in perfect...

I would expect a 2-cylinder to do that even if everything is working perfectly. Even with the crankcase averaging a vacuum, there's going to be a large amount of pulsing of pressure from the pistons going up and down together.

I don't mean to insult you, but what is the symptom of the high blowby? This is a 2-cylinder engine with both pistons moving up and down together, so there will be a lot of crankcase pressure pulsing, compared to a 4-cylinder with very little. I'm asking because the engine starts easily and...

I'm glad you got things working properly! Man, you were lucky with the $40 CVT1. They usually go for more than that.

Any chance you can do a close examination and see what the cause of the failures is?

What do you need to know, Aces? There are two wires that carry AC from the stator that connect to two terminals on the terminal strip under the DC regulator. The third terminal on the strip is the DC output to the batteries. The two wires coming out of the top of the regulator go to the fuse...

After you remove the big fan shroud, the DC regulator is out in the open, and relatively simple to change. There are some screw terminals, and you have to unsolder the wires from the fuse holder.