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There are cases in which a 12v motor will run fine, although about twice as fast, on 24v, without damage. Some motors are even spec'd that way, like 1200 rpm at 12v and 2400 rpm@24v. You might do a little investigation into this. The motor manufacturer might be helpful. And of course I have...

I agree, but a brute force solution might be to set it up so you can alternate between the two batteries, occasionally switching the one you're using for 12v. But if the grounds aren't isolated, this won't work, and in that case you'd have to use just the battery that's connected to ground...

Sounds about like my experience with this type of pump in other applications, tbearatkin. They're very simple, and there's not much to really fail, as long as you keep them clean enough to keep pumping.

I have one, and as a guess, I think most of the noise is clanking of internal moving parts, coupled to the air by lots of cooling fins. If I decide to make mine quieter, I'll do something like build a solid fence around it, or put it in a shed that has lots of ventilation. I decided against an...

There's some confusion between dielectric grease and conductive grease. You're better off using an anti-corrosion, conductive grease like Penetrox or NO-OX-ID, as Rustystud suggested, than a dielectric grease that's made to insulate things.

I didn't realize how close we are, Chris. I have a friend who lives on the Eno river near Hillsboro, and I occasionally ride a motorcycle down the country roads to visit him. If you ever need any help and the weather is nice, let me know. I could bring a spare regulator so you could swap them...

Agreeing with all the above, I'd say that unless you occasionally find the 002A can't keep up with the demand, then don't get an 003A. An 003A at half load uses significantly more fuel than an 002A at full load. I find that my 003A still uses the better part of a gallon per hour, even if the...

I don't know about your mice, but the ones we have around here have no problem climbing up tires.

Or you may find an ASK around someone will sell you. When I got my 003A I found a member here who had an unused ASK at a reasonable price, and was ready to buy it when I started thinking about having to remove a panel every time I wanted to check or work on something.

Diesels with indirect injection (pre-chambers) need glow plugs to start. Direct injection diesels may not.

Most of the noise from my 003A is not from the exhaust, which is really pretty well muffled as-is. You will notice a bit less low frequency exhaust sound, but no less ear shattering clanking and banging. :)

How did it turn itself off? If overloaded, I'd expect something like the main breaker to trip, or the engine to slow down and not be able to maintain 60 Hz, for example.

I wonder how the Detroit 2-71 powered surplus railroad generators compare in reliability. Does anyone here have any experience with them? I was looking at them when I found my MEP-003A and got it instead.

What happened, did he buy a used one that's out of warranty?

It looks like I'm right about there being a misunderstanding of the glow plug operation. All glow plugs are powered during cranking. K2, the preheat relay, is powered through terminal 15 of S1, both when S1 is in the "preheat" position, and in the "start" position. All glow plugs are wired to...

I don't think you can start an 002A or 003A without at least a couple glow plugs working. I suspect guys who think they don't need glow plugs don't realize the glow plugs are powered during cranking.

Right Jamawieb, I was thinking it might be worth doing a compression test, if for no reason other than to eliminate that as a possible cause.

Well said, Chris. A lot of modern electronic gear, including computers, can deal with wider swings than that, but it would be smart to consult the manual if there's a specific device in question. Induction motors or even synchronous motors aren't terribly picky either, but you don't want to go...

I've looked over the manuals and found page after page of partial schematics and block diagrams, but don't fully understand everything yet. Maybe with more time I'll figure it out. It came up because I'd like to offer some sort of solution for failed regulators.

I find the 802 and 803 circuit diagrams confusing. At least the ones I have are confusing. The 002A and 003A manuals have complete schematics, showing the DC and AC circuits, and even the AC regulator's circuit all in one drawing. Those diagrams make it easy for a guy who knows nothing about...