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Blasphemy! I can't stand IFS. Really nice truck though.

I have. I even had them on the laptop in the back of the camper. But when you are coming back from 2 weeks on the road, are at nearly 12k feet and exhausted, and just hitched and found a gas can and covered 80 miles, I think the TM's wouldn't have saved me from the stupid mistake of checking...

A mod should add this to the FAQ. I ran out of gas the other day and it was a pitb to get the system primed on the roadside 40 miles from civilization with no cell service 30 minutes before dark.

Figured I post one up of the 1028 from the other day outside of Elkton, CO:

Jebus, this is worse than an electrical gremlin. How bad is the pull? Violent or just a let go of the wheel and it wanders?

I want beer: wheel bearing?

How are your steering components, specifically you might try swapping out the stabilizer? Let me know if I win the beer. I like beer.

Colorado calls my 1028 a d30 postal carrier. I just call it the muther cucker.

A 24v inverter wouldn't be hard to wire at all. Highly recommend a pure sine wave if you are running sensitive electronics. Have you thought of running solar and a third battery for dedicated electronics? That's what I use in my camper and it works great. I still don't see the need to run...

I'd kill for some bucket seats. Not only would it free up room in the cab, but whoever was assigned to my truck had a really heavy left hand butt cheek. I brace off the door for a good portion of my driving.

99% of your truck is 12v. And that's a good thing, because it's easy to work with. You have a 12v and 24v bus on the firewall. Most of the fusebox is 12v as well. No need for converters and the like, plenty of power options. Yes, you can tap in to 24v when needed, but for civi applications...

Let's just say mine went out at a perfectly inopportune time as well, coming down a narrow curvy steep grade at 1 a.m. out of Telluride with no room to pull over. The weird thing was that if I kept the rpm's really high, they would come back on. I don't know if it was just the rattling of...

I'm having the same problem, although I haven't been blowing the 30amp fuse. I've added another substantial ground from the bus to the block, checked all wires leading to the lights, cleaned up all the other grounds, and am scared to drive at night. I think I'll rig accessory lights directly...

Sorry, relevant thread about my lights mysteriously going out on me, but staying on when rpms are high.

Another bump for a relevant thread. I'll check all harnesses and the fuse, although the fuse doesn't seem logical because they come back on.

Bumping this thread due to a related problem with my 1028. Last week the highbeam switch on the colum failed, stuck in high. I'll need to replace it. But no biggie I thought to run that way for awhile because the low beams are horrid anyway. Fast forward a week. Coming down a mountain pass...

Does that act as an isolator as well? Meaning, it will not charge the 3rd battery unless the engine is running, and also protects the 3rd battery from participating in starting duties?

Nice. What club are you referring to? I know of one other CUCV owner in the Denver area, but it's always good to have some further resources somewhat nearby. I'm up in the mountains.

It's not a trailer (slide in popup) so there is no existing wiring. I'll go ahead and wire it with some heavy gauge battery cable off of the front battery and isolate it.

Just for charging a simple yellow optima.